my 1932 datsun replica build

I need to replace the starter in the Datsun, and then I can begin on the process I am really dreading.... Wiring up the rest of the chassis so the turn signals, lights, etc. work and I can get street legal.  I'm stalling by doing some metal work around the transmission tunnel, but I will soon run out of such excuses....the supplies have arrived.

In reply to JoeyM :

I know you're very budget consciouse, so you've probably checked every possible solution.  What part number did you end up with on the wiring kit?  I've eventually gotta do the same for my TR4.

Indy-Guy said:

In reply to JoeyM :

I know you're very budget conscious, so you've probably checked every possible solution.  What part number did you end up with on the wiring kit?  I've eventually gotta do the same for my TR4.

I bought this 22 circuit mini-fuse wiring harness from Speedway, which is obviously overkill for a car without power windows, door locks, window defrosters, etc.  (i.e. all those things could be powered by the 22 circuit harness.)  They have a smaller 12 circuit harness that is less expensive, but I didn't think the instructions were as extensive/thorough.  Either Speedway option is lower priced than the name brand harness from Painless, which they also sell.

The little booklet on wiring streetrods is an extra item which is not included with the harness, but I have a feeling that it will be useful since I am going to need lots of hand holding to get through the process.

That's the exact same kit I looked at for SanFord. 

I had some help in the garage yesterday

This morning, I finished riveting the tunnel skin into place and the floor pans back down where they should be.  (They were pulled up in the footwells in 2017.)

BTW, there are a lot of different sources of metal in that last photo

I've been dreading this, but I finally tried swapping out the starters.  After work tomorrow, I may put the battery back in and fill the car up with fluids.

In reply to JoeyM :

That sounds like a GREAT idea. We need video. 

JoeyM said:

Indy-Guy said:

In reply to JoeyM :

I know you're very budget conscious, so you've probably checked every possible solution.  What part number did you end up with on the wiring kit?  I've eventually gotta do the same for my TR4.

 

I bought this 22 circuit mini-fuse wiring harness from Speedway, which is obviously overkill for a car without power windows, door locks, window defrosters, etc.  (i.e. all those things could be powered by the 22 circuit harness.)  They have a smaller 12 circuit harness that is less expensive, but I didn't think the instructions were as extensive/thorough.  Either Speedway option is lower priced than the name brand harness from Painless, which they also sell.

The little booklet on wiring streetrods is an extra item which is not included with the harness, but I have a feeling that it will be useful since I am going to need lots of hand holding to get through the process.

FYI - our GRM hosts just published this article about using the Bare Bonz Race kit harness to rewire a TR3

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/get-wired-no-stress-way-tackle-wiring-your-race-ca/

 I went and bought fluids for the datsun today, but we had rain, so I didn't try starting it.  (There's a transmission fluid leak I need to track down, and I'd rather roll it out into the driveway to track down the leak than have a mess on the garage floor where I have to sit and/or lay frequently.)  Since I had to keep the car in the garage, made some steel pieces to weld to the bottom of the dakota frame rail.  They're just cosmetic....they smooth the appearance at the junction where I joined the pickup front of the chassis to the locost-like* back end of the chassis.

--

[*] - most of the chassis is made of one inch square steel tubing with 14 gauge sidewall.  IIRC, that's thicker than the McSorley locost plans use, but as a newbie welder I decided that it would be easier to work with.  

.

The battery is out right now, and needs to be put back in to try the new starter.  I thought that I should fix the floor - rivet it down, seal the seams between panels, etc. - that will be under the battery before I put it back into place.  (Right now it goes in the passenger footwell.  That's temporary; it will eventually go in the back like a miata.)  Anyway, that's why the floor and transmission tunnel have been worked on recently.

This morning I went to harbor freight to get flapper wheels, then used a syringe and Plasti dip to seal some of the seams where sheet metal pieces came together.  Most of them are from different sources, different thicknesses, and probably have different alloys. I really want to keep moisture out of those areas.

While I did that, the Mrs. Taped off the firewall stripes, and brushed on a fresh layer of white plastikote engine enamel to make sure those stripes look clean and bright.

EDIT: We also just used an angle grinder to smooth out the edges of the firewall so they will be flush with the chassis tubes.  We're hoping this makes the Cowl fit better.

I've now prettied up the passenger side frame rail junction

Today was frustrating.  I added fluids.....I still have a transmission leak, and still haven't found it.  I put the seats back in the car, hooked up the battery.  When I turned the key....nothing, not even a click or whir....the fuel pump doesn't come on, the starter doesn't turn over.  I need to check/redo the the starter installation, since that's probably the source of the problem.   Another option to consider....checking the fuses.

Anyway, after the completely unsuccessful day, I needed something to go well.  I tried something easy; testing if I can  cover the ugly/oversize hole in the firewall for the steering column with a rubber gasket made from a toilet flap.  IMHO It will look pretty good when we place it there permanently.

One other really nice thing happened today....a guy driving a '32 ford saw the datsun in the driveway and stopped to chat.  He invited me to a cruise in on father's day weekend.                      

I'm about to roll the car out.  Dad is coming over to see if we can figure out the electrical issues and get it to turn over.

The problem wasn't my starter installation, it was a bad battery.  The car fires up now, although I still have other issues to solve before she runs smoothly 

In reply to JoeyM :

Awesome!!!

Pete Gossett said:

In reply to JoeyM :

Awesome!!!

Thank you.  Having it running again is a huge relief.  There's lots of work left to do, though

Nice!

Congrats man! Glad to see it running!

pimpm3 said:

Nice!

ShawnG said:

Congrats man! Glad to see it running!

Thanks, guys.  I really appreciate it.  There's still a LOT to do, but it was an important step.

ShawnG said:

Congrats man! Glad to see it running!

....and thank you - again - for explaining to me how to hang doors.

Last week when we had the car running, we could go around the block, but it wouldn't have been safe to go any distance because the fan wasn't running. Today, with help from the Mrs., we have the fan running properly. Of course, this came with a new problem...I have a carburator leak that is dripping fuel. 

Those hot rod harnesses are a piece of cake to wire.  Once the main fuse panel is mounted, it comes down to routing and making connections. The function of each wire is written on the actual wire, so hard to go wrong when it says" Lights" or "LH Turn/RH turn" or whatever.

So cool to see this driving around. It has been quite the journey.

Pete