I just tried a 3/4 inch Bimini slide jaw clamp even though the outer diameter of the conduit is only 0.706
This might still make a decent hinge. I think I can remove the play and get this to work if I add a shim/collar to the tube at the spot it needs to grip.
Now that we have an idea how the hinges might work, I did another 2D mockup of the back. The blue tape line represents a possible position for top fabric.
I will call the top bow that mounts directly to the body, and extends all the way to the back of the car, the "primary bow." Based on the above mockup with blue tape for a roofline, it seems like this primary bow will probably me too be around 27 in on the sides.... Possibly a little less.
I'll call the bow that attaches to the primary and extends forward towards the roll bar the secondary bow. The secondary bow will be shorter, probably less than 19 inches. That means the bow I created for a test of a fabrication method could be cut down and used for the secondary, because The sides are a little longer than that.
Just a thought. How about checking out one of those portable 10x10 shade tents. They have the scissoring sides that may work for you. I've seen people just throw them away because the top gets torn or lost.
JoeyM said:I just tried a 3/4 inch Bimini slide jaw clamp even though the outer diameter of the conduit is only 0.706
I think I can remove the play and get this to work if I add a shim/collar to the tube at the spot it needs to grip.
An attempt, using PCL plastic to form the collar
brad131a4 (Forum Supporter) said:Just a thought. How about checking out one of those portable 10x10 shade tents. They have the scissoring sides that may work for you. I've seen people just throw them away because the top gets torn or lost.
that isnot a bad idea....definitely worth looking into
Okay, here's a quick update on why I haven't been updating. It's the start of the new semester and I've been spending all my time trying to get my classes to launch successfully. Lots of fighting with learning management systems and publisher websites, etc.
In addition to that, I've been having reservations about the 1/2-in conduit. Although it looks like it is shapeable, and some Bimini fittings do fit it, The stuff just seems lightweight and flimsy for the task. I know that some rat rod folks do build frames for tops out of conduit, but I think they're working with larger diameter stuff. If I do have time to get out and work on the car this weekend, will probably try using the same conduit bender on larger conduit, and maybe even on better steel tubing than conduit to see what it's capable of.
Obviously, if whatever I try to build it out of it's not substantial enough and fails, then I'll have to try rebuilding it out of other stuff. I'd love to not have that failure and extra expense happen, though. That's why I'm going to try other materials before I go much forward.
BTW, there's some useful information on conduit on this page
If you're loving how the 1/2 inch conduit works for you but are just concerned about how flimsy it might be in use, mix up some fiberglass catalyzed liquid resin, or gel resin, and fill the tubes with that. Won't add a whole lot of weight but will strengthen it considerably. Used it on a smaller job, a light bar for the MG Midget bumper, and it worked out swell. Even let us drill holes for the light mounts without collapsing when the bracket bolts were tightened.
A thought . . .
MuSTANK said:If you're loving how the 1/2 inch conduit works for you but are just concerned about how flimsy it might be in use, mix up some fiberglass catalyzed liquid resin, or gel resin, and fill the tubes with that. Won't add a whole lot of weight but will strengthen it considerably. Used it on a smaller job, a light bar for the MG Midget bumper, and it worked out swell. Even let us drill holes for the light mounts without collapsing when the bracket bolts were tightened.
A thought . . .
Oh wow! That is a great idea. This is why I love this forum
JoeyM said:Today has been one of those good news/bad news situations.
the bad news: 3/16 inch flat rod I need for the Packard-style scissoring parts of the top may be difficult to find at a reasonable price. .Mine and Mill advertises the far more reasonable price of $15.69 for 20 feet, but my local store says they haven't had any 3/16 - in any(!!!) width - for many months
Possible good news: Mine and Mill may not have 3/4" flat rod but when I called today they said they have 1/4" by 1" on order, and may be getting some in this week. If I can live with the beefier stuff, I can save a fair bit of money
I have another thought for materials. The taller top bows that I've been trying to build from conduit, could be built by using the short commercially made top bows and welding them to some narrow pipe. I'm not sure how safe that would be, however, and have started a thread about using pipe in a convertible top. Please chime in and let me know how Daffy that idea is. If the GRM hive mind says to steer clear, I probably will
Yesterday I took my wife's grandpa puttering around the neighborhood
MuSTANK said:If you're loving how the 1/2 inch conduit works for you but are just concerned about how flimsy it might be in use, mix up some fiberglass catalyzed liquid resin, or gel resin, and fill the tubes with that. Won't add a whole lot of weight but will strengthen it considerably. Used it on a smaller job, a light bar for the MG Midget bumper, and it worked out swell. Even let us drill holes for the light mounts without collapsing when the bracket bolts were tightened.
A thought . . .
I'm liking this idea. What type of epoxy resin did you use? Was it a deep poor epoxy? Do you by chance remember the brand? More importantly, how long did it have to cure before it set up. Did you pour and then wait several days?
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