My god, what have I done?

DO NOT loose faith in this for it is a higher caliber overall package to be just tossed asunder in a fit of  "it's freekin' hot in G'port" and I'd rather watch the sun rise on the beach @ 'Hard Rock'....carry on bro....

The engine is all buttoned up, fluids are filled - though I still need to burp the power steering & coolant once it's running - and I got ECMLink connected and ran through the basic settings. I also gave it a couple quick cranks to make sure the battery is still ok & check for any fuel leaks. 
 

And I have a bit of camber now, though I still need to align it. 
 

I need to do house & yard work tomorrow, so it's looking like Sunday will be when I push it outside & see what happens. 

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

I am anxiously awaiting Sunday!

Is it Sunday yet?

John Brown (Forum Supporter) said:

Is it Sunday yet?

Unfortunately no, and I just finished the yard work, so now I get to climb up into our 300-degree attic & try to figure out why our a/c ducts have suddenly decided to start dripping condensation through the ceiling...

I suck at operating my phone camera with gloves on, but here's the first start. 
 

And here's the return drive from the corner lol. 
 

To cure the idle surge we had to disable the idle switch emulation in ECMLink, but then it was idling around 2k. The idle screw was backed way out though, so adjusting it brought the idle back around 800rpm. 
 

There is some intermittent smoke from the exhaust that smells a bit like fuel, though not as strongly as the smoke should indicate. That sort of makes sense as the builder said it was running rich, but yet the AFR is hovering right around 14.7, so I'm not really sure. 
 

The good news is even with a bit more than -3* of camber up front nothing rubs at full-lock, though I have toe-in I need to correct. I still have to sort out the shifter problems though, as 2nd is vague at best & reverse is still impossible to find. 

I hear a hint of "I'm going to kick Challenge ass" at idle but disappointed at the lack of AWD burnout.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

Lol I need to put a few miles on it first. 
 

Oh I meant to highlight the "we" I mentioned above is really enginekev - we were Skyping the whole time so he could see the data in real-time & direct me on what needed done. I'd be completely lost on this E36 M3 without his help!

I can not wait to lose to you!

In reply to John Brown (Forum Supporter) :

Of the two of us I know I have a FAR higher likelihood to spew metallic bits all over than you do. 

John Brown (Forum Supporter) said:

I can not wait to lose to you!

I've gotta bring my a game if i want to stand a chance against this.

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

Well... I AM driving a $700 250k miles Lexus being spun to eleventybillion RPM 

Dusterbd13-michael (Forum Supporter) said:

John Brown (Forum Supporter) said:

I can not wait to lose to you!

I've gotta bring my a game if i want to stand a chance against this.

Settle for your Q/R/S game. Trust me.

Progress on this is going at light speed!

Good to see the idle issue was sorted with the BISS.  Soon its time to start dialing in fuel and making some big boost!

When we were skyping Pete looked over the throttle body and we saw that there is no IAC or FIAV, they installed a blockoff plate for both!  They may have done this because the IAC fails quite often on DSMs, or they wanted to eliminate the FIAV only and used a blockoff plate for both?  Either way its not an ideal solution! Without the IAC the ECU has no way to control airflow to control idle speed and higher idle speed is generally necessary to prevent stalls.

To get the IAC back you could reinstall the IAC/FIAV assembly and reconnect the FIAV, or buy/make a FIAV bypass plate (blocks off FIAV but retains the IAC), OR you can mess with the interals of the FIAV to seal/disable it.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/free-fiav-block.391977/

In reply to engiekev :

That's sweet! I'll have to plug in the IAC off the other TB & confirm it works. 

I got the rear Konis installed tonight & started pondering the battery location, but I'd like some input. 
 

As you can see from the pic, the battery box is bolted to the floor, but the battery isn't bolted to anything... I think there's enough room to create a mount without hitting the unibody rail directly below, but there's a chance I may have to move the battery anyway. 
 

While I've not scaled the car yet, from pushing it around on dollies & just staring under the hood, I estimate there's about 30% of the weight in front of the front axle centerline. So from that standpoint having the battery as far back as possible makes sense. However, as you can tell from the pic the rear hatch floor is almost a foot higher than the rear seat area. Also, in its current location the battery is behind the rear axle centerline. So the way I see it is: 

1. Keep the battery in approximately the same location. The more rearward location will slightly better offset the high front weight bias, but at the cost of a slightly higher center of gravity, as well as the polar moment of inertia.
2. Move the battery to the rear passenger's floor. This gets the weight lower, reduces the polar moment slightly, and probably eliminates a foot of battery cable, but it won't offset the front weight bias as much. Oh, and I can vent it out one of the existing drain plugs in the floor, vs. having to drill a hole if I keep it in the hatch.

What do you guys think?

For ISC you can also test resistance between the coils, there is a procedure in the electrical FSM, quick resistance check for shorted coils:

To test ISC operation in vehicle, per ECMLink here is the process:

"Test for proper operation of the ISC: Turn off the ignition and reset the ECU by removing battery backup power for at least 10 seconds, then restoring battery backup. Then, with the ISC unbolted from the throttle body but plugged in to the wiring harness, turn on the ignition and observe the movement of the ISC. The ISC should fully extend, then retract slightly. If the ISC just quivers a bit but doesn't really move, suspect a problem with the ISC, the driver circuits in the ECU, or the wiring. If the ISC fully retracts instead of fully extending, there is a wiring problem, perhaps a mismatch between '90 and '91+ engine harness and ISC. Using a '90 harness with a '91+ ISC, or vice versa, will cause the ISC to operate backwards."

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/idlesurge

Pete Gossett 

1. Keep the battery in approximately the same location. The more rearward location will slightly better offset the high front weight bias, but at the cost of a slightly higher center of gravity, as well as the polar moment of inertia.
2. Move the battery to the rear passenger's floor. This gets the weight lower, reduces the polar moment slightly, and probably eliminates a foot of battery cable, but it won't offset the front weight bias as much. Oh, and I can vent it out one of the existing drain plugs in the floor, vs. having to drill a hole if I keep it in the hatch.

What do you guys think?

I vote put Pete weight in the seat and put the car on scales then move the battery around to get yourself side balanced. Don't fret the front to back.

Or look at where Calvin and Andrew put theirs...

In reply to John Brown (Forum Supporter) :

I'm looking into a cheaper scale setup, but they still aren't cheap. Unfortunately I don't know anyone who owns any, and the set I used for the Miata had to be borrowed from a guy's brother 2.5 hours away. 
 

Thinking more about the battery I'm going to try & relocate it to the passenger's rear floor board.  

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

Whatever you do with the battery make sure it's legal.  When I did the math it came out better to put a lawn mower battery in the stock location than relocate it with the extra weight in cables and budget hit in cut off switch.

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

It was already back there, the only change required would have been relocating the cutoff switch, which would have cost me 3-4 feet of cable, and installing the vent tube(but I received spools of tubing with the car, so I'm set there).

I moved the battery tonight to the passenger's back seat area. I still need to finish wiring it, but the existing ground cable was the perfect length & I think the positive cable is long enough to relocate the switch without having to add any length. 

In reply to Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) :

Cool deal.  AWD burnout video?

In reply to Stampie (FS) :

I'm off Friday & I think the courthouse is reopened, so I'm going to try & get it tagged & insured. I need to pack up a tool bag & try to find someplace I can safely get into boost, that also has plenty of shoulder to pull over onto when I inevitably blow a coupler or two loose.

I probably should also check whether the exterior lights work too...

Aeromoto stopped by with his son tonight  & we almost finished the battery relocation, I just need to trim up the battery cables & one of the hold-down bolts, but it's relocated & works. We were able to get the under-door cladding zip-tied on so it won't blow off at highway speeds. Lastly, we did some car-Tetris. 
 

Unfortunately when doing a 3-point turn in the driveway with the DSM it decided to spew most of its power steering fluid out the top of the pump...

I think I might have the incorrect o-ring under the top hose, but I'm not sure. 

When the Q45 had PS it was a bitch to bleed it right.  If it wasn't bleed right it would vomit it up.