Interesting! I thought that by 2015 they had stopped putting the "valves" on the end of the cowl and sunroof drains. One solution to clogging that I've seen is to just cut the ends off those rubber nipples so that everything runs out on it's own.
Interesting! I thought that by 2015 they had stopped putting the "valves" on the end of the cowl and sunroof drains. One solution to clogging that I've seen is to just cut the ends off those rubber nipples so that everything runs out on it's own.
In reply to sobe_death :
Yup, I thought about that but these were fairly open and we don't get all that much rain here. Pretty much what I got out was leaves and twigs...
Finished up the 60k maintenance Saturday. I finally got the correct belt in from Pelican and after watching it sit on my workbench for a bit I decided to install it.
Pretty easy, I removed the rubber intercooler hose from the top since it was kinda in my way. Verified I had the belt routing correct, then used a T60 on the tensioner and removed the old belt. After 5 years and 60k miles it still looked fine. Probably could've run it for several more years. Given that this is my wife's car tho its not worth it.
Routed the new belt into place, cranked over the tensioner again and popped it all the way on. Started the car, all is well!
Just did another oil change, it has 75,101 on it now. Glad I added the dipstick, it takes the sensor *forever* to read the amount of oil.
It's still running great! Thinking about getting my wife into her next car soon, she wants a nardo grey Audi Q5, which we'd have to special order. Or we can grab an SQ5 in that color stock. Gotta get her to a dealership to test drive both and see what she thinks.
So I took my wife to test drive a few Audi's last Friday. She drove the Q5 2.0T and the SQ5. She's not a car person and generally a very timid driver, doesn't hammer on the throttle, etc. I was surprised when she said she liked the SQ5 more. She's always liked the Nardo Grey color, the SQ5 used to come in it but now comes in Quantum Grey. I really couldn't see a difference between the colors in pictures on line.
Luckily the dealer had an SQ5 in Quantum grey and a customer brought in their Nardo Grey RS6 avant to service so we could see them in person. In person the colors are nothing alike, the Nardo grey is much more pastel.
You can still get the SQ5 in Nardo Grey but you have to custom order it with an upcharge of $3900. Oh well, she keeps her cars a really long time and it's the only car she's every pointed out in traffic to say she likes.
Oddly enough when it came time to start talking about actually ordering the car she kinda backed off of it. It takes ~4 months to get a car now, if we want it to land on the 2021 tax year we need to order it soon. We talked it over and she decided we'd order it in January of 2022, with the hopes of it arriving in April ish.
Thought is I'll trade in my Golf R and keep the Cayenne as my DD...
Wife still hasn't talked about the Audi, so guess she's happy with the Cayenne.
Yesterday I changed the oil, replaced the fuel filter and this morning (once I go buy some) I'll fill the DEF tank up. Good for another 5000 miles...
Probably put in 4 gallons of DEF, reset the light, it's ready to rumble till the next oil change...
Since I sold my Stinger GT and getting my wife a new Wrangler I've been quietly looking at buying a "family" vehicle.
When I ran dealerships I mostly drove BMW X5s, but I've always had a love for Cayennes. Your good experience with the diesel may send me in that direction next.
In reply to Loweguy5 (Forum Supporter) :
We've got 80k miles on it now, with pretty minimal issues. Most of them have revolved around emissions stuff. So shortly after we bought it they had to replace the catalytic convertors and the EGT sensors. The DEF sensor has been replaced at least once, then it's been little trim items like the dash clock...
My friend ran his until 150k miles until he had enough problems that he got rid of it.
I "think" the main thing with later model diesels is that they dont like to sit unused. That is my take after owning our 2014 3 series diesel wagon.
Never a problem, but when the pandemic hit and the car sat unused for a year emission problems crept up. We had to have the DEF tank emptied and the DEF injector plus the NOX sensors replaced. Luckily the emission's part of the warranty is much longer and it was all covered under it.
I now make a point of driving it if my wife stays home and does not drive it for a while.
In reply to Slippery :
Ours never sits, even during the Covid shutdown my wife's business stayed open and she was driving it everyday. Sometimes the DEF level sensor doesn't reset, the dealer usually is able to force it to reset but they've replaced it once. There was a recall on the DEF heater, so that got replaced and so on.
It's under emissions/engine warranty until 2025 or 125,000 miles. It'll probably have around 125k miles on it in 3 ish years. At that point maybe I tune it and delete some of the problematic systems, or sell it. Or my wife may decide she wants a new car before that, we'll see...
Recently did the 80k mile service, which was an oil change, fuel filter change and DEF fluid fill up. Still running well.
I'd added the Rennline phone mount but the magnet they provide is too dinky to hold my wife's iPhone 12 Max. Someone on Rennlist recommended a larger magnet, so I bought it and gave it a try. It's probably 50% larger than the rennline one, does wireless charging too and seems to hold my wifes phone much better. We'll see when she actually starts to use it.
It also gave me the rennline magnet to try in the Corrado with my phone, which is the smaller "regular" iPhone 12, so I'll see how that works out for me...
Good to see yours is doing well, your experiences helped convince me to buy mine back in June! We are tracking to roughly the same mileage, I'm about to cross 71k. I did engine/cabin air filters yesterday and need to get diff/trans fluids done for peace of mind.
I really really like mine and need to drive it more, it is absolutely happier the more it's driven. Very good road-tripper and I'm amazed at the MPG it'll pull if you're even somewhat reasonable with your right foot. Just installed an aftermarket board in the PCM to add wireless CarPlay/Android Auto because i hate phone mounts ;-)
In reply to Brake_L8 (Forum Supporter) :
I've been looking into the Apple Carplay retrofit. Doesn't look as seamless as I'd like and my wife isn't all that interested in it. So I'm not gonna spend a bunch of hours installing it unless she asks me about it.
Another 5000 miles completed, so did an oil change on it this morning. Still running well!
So update! Last time I drove the truck, which was a few weeks ago, I heard a faint tap, tap tap sound. My wife is oblivious, she hadn't heard it and couldn't tell me how long it'd been there.
Since the SUV is still under powertrain warranty off to the dealer it went. Heard back from them yesterday, they said she must've run over something because the bracket for the NOx sensor was bent. Specifically it was bent into the front driveshaft and had basically machined the driveshaft to the point where said driveshaft needs to be replaced.
Which is an OEM part *only*. Not available at ECS Tuning, FCP Euro, RM Euro, etc, etc. Since she drives across town and like I said above, is oblivious, I'm letting them replace it. Labor isn't bad, parts cost is, um, large.
Friend suggested I make a claim on my auto insurance, since the damage was caused by hitting something. So I'm in the middle of that, waiting for the appraiser to check it out at the dealer. If they agree, I just have to pay my deductible, which will be nice...
Oof, that's no fun. Hope it's an easy enough repair once insurance takes a look!
Mine is currently at the Porsche dealership with its engine on a table being resealed, it was leaking from three or four places and leaving spots on the ground. Warranty repair for the whole thing.
So insurance bellied up to the bar and paid for the driveshaft! Sweet! Dealer also said the front brakes needed to be replaced, so I ordered everything from fcp euro and knocked that out yesterday.
my wife drives so freaking slowly I don't understand how she's wearing out front brakes every 30k miles or so, but whatever.
so wheels off, pull the caliper, which is a pita mono block design, then get to work.
Rotor set screws come out easily need to beat on the rotor a bit to unstick it from the hub. Clean the hubs,, a little bit of anti seize, new rotors and set screws installed.
Now to deal with the brake pads. I hate these mono block designs, I'd rather pop the pads in from the top vs the bottom. My caliper piston spreader tool won't fit so I have to use a channel lock plier instead. Struggle a bit to snap the pads in, then line up the caliper bolts but get it done.
yeah, those pads were done...
then I flushed the brake fluid, which was darker than I expected for 2 years and 30ish thousand miles
then I pulled off the snow wheels and put the all seasons on. Drove up and down the street to set the tpms, added air to both passenger side tires and this rig is good to go
Do those 6-pistons have a bridge over the top of the caliper? I know the 17z 6-piston calipers can pull the pads out the top. I've also stopped needing to use my caliper spreader by cracking open the bleeders then just prying on the old brake pads to retract the pistons. If you're changing rotors it doesn't matter the pry bar, but I have a super strong phenolic pry tool that doesn't even mar the surface for just a pad change.
In reply to sobe_death :
Yes, they're a mono block design, so essentially one piece. You can only pop the pads in from the "bottom" so to speak. Huge PITA and no appreciable benefit on a street car
Well I'm paying for the work on my wife's car today. Back is growling at me, obviously unhappy about me throwing around two sets of wheels/tires on the Cayenne...
Wife complained brakes were making noise. I knew that the rear pads were close to the limit, so I ordered everything from FCP Euro and went to town. Rears are a little different in that the parking brake is electronic. I was worried I'd have to somehow get it to back off the rear brake shoes, but since we hardly ever use it, I got lucky.
Remove the wheels, the T50 bolt and the small triple squre bolt. Remove the two large caliper bolts and wiggle it off and place it out of the way. Gently give the rotor a wiggle, if it's under tension you get to try and use the screw adjuster to back the rear brake shoes off the rotor, or hook up a scan tool and see if you can cycle it electronically. Like I said, mine popped right off. Whew!
Yeah, those pads are worn. Although they lasted 93k miles!
I got a new caliper piston retracting tool. Just put it inbetween the pads and crank away. Totally worth the $18 I spent on it.
Remove the brake pad sensor and pop the pads out along with the retaining clip. Here's the new vs old pad comparison...
Pop in the new retaining clip, which is a PITA, then slide in the pad sensor from the top of the caliper, thru the clip. Now plug it into the pad and install the pads. Install the new rotor, clean the oil off it. Put in the new T50 rotor retaining bolt and little triple square bolt. Put the caliper back on the rotor. Give it a few whacks from the outside to get it to settle into place. Put in the caliper retaining bolts and torque them to 133 ft lbs.
Here's where I flushed the brakes again because I forgot that I did it last spring. Oops. Since I had the car up on the lift I went ahead and swapped on the winter wheels/tires. I'm probably about 3 weeks to soon for it but I didn't feel like getting it up on the rack again, plus one of the tpms sensors had died in the summer wheels.
Spring is about here and its time for some maintenance.
Been 20k miles since I replaced the fuel filter, it's due. Yeah, it's filthy. I always empty the fuel filter canister of fuel. Makes the first start up a little concerning as it's cranking away until it fills and gets fuel pressure, but then I know I've got all the water out.
Then another oil change. Suck out the old, in with 8 quarts of M1 5w30 ESP and a new Mahle oil filter. I love this oil evacuation tool, it makes the job so easy and clean.
Then I topped off the DEF. I usually am able to remove the tank cap without taking out the spare, but it was practically welded into place with dried up DEF. So out came the spare, cap removed and cleaned up, then I put in ~4 gallons of DEF. Reset the oil/service lights and the DEF level sensor, let it warm up to double check the oil level (which takes forever!) and then went to recycle the oil.
Next weekend I'll swap the snow tires out for the 3 season ones and this'll be good to go. It's about to turn 100k miles, still running really well and under warranty for another 15 months or 20k miles.
Swapped on the snow tires/wheels just now because its supposed to snow this weekend. Also changed out the cabin air filter, which was pretty dirty.
Did another oil change and filled up the DEF ~2 weeks ago. It's going to the dealer in a few weeks for a whining noise, which I suspect is a bad idler or tensioner pulley. Then have them check it for leaks since the Dieselgate warranty expires in another year/8k miles. If anything's going bad that is under warranty I want it fixed now, for free...
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