Ok, back on a serious note. I figured I could start looking into the heater issue since I had some down time today (Enfield scheduled to sell on the 24th):
The heater doesn't work. That is if you select any setting besides "3" then nothing happens. If you select setting "3" (max) then all it does is emit a high pitched buzz and the fan doesn't turn on.
Hey, I can fix that!
The wiring diagram all seems pretty easy. You select a speed setting with the lever, then electricity goes through a resistor pack (more resistance = lower speed), through a relay, and on to the blower motor. I suspect the blower motor is bad. But why not check everything?
The only hard part to find was the relay, but guess what? That high pitched buzzing? yeah, led me right to it Out it all comes:
Definitely a good way to spend my lunch break
I figure the easiest thing to test is going to be the blower motor. I have a few alligator leads and I plan to hook them directly up to the battery. On the motor housing it's marked that either side can be +, but it will change the direction of the fan. I don't care about direction, I'm just happy that no matter how I hook up this fan I won't be able to fry it.
The fan moves!
Moving on, the next easiest thing to test (especially as seeing as how I have all my leads out and I'm already at the battery) is going to be the relay.
I plan to test the relay by hooking up the coil wires to the battery via the alligator jumpers while using my multimeter to watch for continuity down the switched leg
if you don't know how a relay works, it's just a magnet switch. Small voltage charges an electro magnet that pulls a switch closed. Easy peasy.
I know the picture may make it LOOK like the relay is checking good, but it's not. This thing isn't making it's "Closed" connection, only it's "Open" connection. What you see here is me checking the switch "open" part of the relay to make sure the switch leg itself isn't fried apart. It isn't, but something's not allowing it to make contact when I energize the coil.
Unfortunately relay's cost more than the $5 I have in my wallet. So, apart it comes!
ooooooh. Never been here before. This is pretty cool.
You can see the big coil of copper, that's the magnet. The switch is on the right side of the screen, and kind of hangs down. It's in the "open" position now. I found a bit of FOD that was keeping it from making it's connection when electricity commanded it "closed". Just like the points in your car all I had to do was slide a piece of paper in there and push the crap out. Now it works like it should! (I was able to move the switchy thingy with my hand to verify before I put it back together)
I was going to stop there and reinstall everything, but dang if that resistor pack isn't UGLY! I decided I should check it too while it's out.
Dead as a door nail.
So I've been calling it a resistor "pack" but what it looks like to me is one continuous resistor. Spanning its whole length makes a "lot" of resistance (so the lowest fan speed), when you select a higher speed it simply chooses a set location down the path thus reducing the amount of resistance! (kind of like tuning in your radio)
The problem here is the first leg is burnt out, so subsequently ALL the legs are burnt out. (first leg being the highest fan speed, all others build off this so all others don't work)
Oreilley's wants $24.00 and I have a $5 coupon buuuuuuut I think I can do it cheaper than that.
So out comes the broken leg, and out comes a solder iron.
And IN goes a jumper wire!
I figure what I've done is reduce the resistance on that leg so all other legs should run a little faster until I ultimately select the highest setting where it'll just run at top speed like it should.
But will it work?
(drum roll please)
Well would you look at that? Something I did WORKED!!!!
(more on this in a second, for now let me savor the moment)