ClemSparks said:
On fender width:
When I redid my blue car hauler I went to great effort and expense to order fenders that were a little wider. They are standard fenders, but not THE standard that most trailers use (so had to special order through, I think, Redneck Trailer Supply).
I wanted full coverage of my tires (which is what I think you are going for.
After getting it all together it kind of hit me...it's not bad to have the tires stick out a little when manuevering around in tight spots. having a tire sidewall rub the bumper of a scrap hulk in a yard is better than tearing up your fenders.
Take that for what it's worth...but in retrospect, I wouldn't be so concerned if my tires stuck out like your are (and they did...before I refendered).
I tend to dwell on details and then sometimes I find I was dwelling on the wrong one ;)
I would not have thout about that... I like it
Pete Gossett (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to ClemSparks :
I was more concerned about the fender lip damaging the tires when loaded and/or over bumps?
I'm thinking of just moving these fenders out about an inch. They're only welded about 1" in 2 spots front & rear - they're not welded along the inside at all. I could also use the opportunity to hinge the driver's side fender so I can actually get out of the car too.
With (relatively) light car, I think that's plenty of clearance... unless the springs are worn slap out or too soft! Then just use a piece of pipe and roll the lip outwards a bit. I've had to do this on a few trailers after going to a different tire.
I'd be concerned about the trailer battery pulling too much current if ran down. Have you considered a solar charger?
In reply to Stampie (FS) :
I hadn't, but I have plenty of room to mount one.
So has your trailer switched to Evacuation Mode?
Hope you all are doing ok down there...
A couple things, I've used the trailer jack to raise the back of the tow vehicle enough to load things that scrape, it's less weight than you think just to elevate the vehicle on its suspension, not lift it off the ground.
Harbor Freight gallon cans of bedliner and a 1 1/4" nap roller cover are fantastic for walking on, that's how I did the interior of my Bronco. 1 gal did the whole interior @ $50.
I used 2 Miata PPFs for ramps, would work for a Miata for sure i think, and if you know a couple of people that part Miatas or that are doing a swap you can get them free or for scrap value, just cut them straight at both ends, on a bevel at the bottom and done
In reply to TVR Scott (Forum Supporter) :
Fortunately we never received evacuation orders, but that's why I made sure to get the trailer done over the weekend.
In reply to Justjim75 :
I had no idea that HF sold bedliner, but I like that idea - thanks!
Proper ramps ordered. Way more than I wanted to spend, but steel ramps were still 1/2 as much.
If those are as strduy as they look, that a good enough price for my cheap... er... broke... er... thrifty self! Good find.
The ramps arrived today. They're pretty damn nice & lighter than the flimsy HF ones. I need to break out the death-wheel & do some work to the back of the trailer before I can use them though.
Initially I was just going to widen this notch, but I think I'd rather have them latch onto the bar that's just underneath the deck instead. However for that to work I'll have to cut the deck back about 1/2" to get enough clearance for the ramps to hook onto the bar underneath. I need to figure out something in the next couple days though, the starter went out on my daughter's Fit & I'm not going to have time to work on it for weeks, so I need to drag it to the mechanic.
