In reply to NY Nick :
I'm not sure his preferred color is available in a wrap, but a wrap wouldn't be a bad idea in this situation.
In reply to NY Nick :
I'm not sure his preferred color is available in a wrap, but a wrap wouldn't be a bad idea in this situation.
I like the work this guy did.
He even took the time to put silicone plugs in the threaded holes, and wrap the threaded studs with tape so the threads don't get clogged with the powder coating.
I shouldn't have to chase the threads with a tap and die.
NY Nick said:Can you wrap it in that color to save time?
I've got plenty of time. I've come this far- I'd rather give it a proper paint job.
Now that I've seen this, that has got to be the biggest lump to be powder coated I've ever seen .....or does this happen all the time now?
In reply to 759NRNG :
He does industrial coatings. Military, etc.
He has 4 separate ovens large enough to fit a dump truck in.
For him? It happens ALL the time.
He had 8 cars waiting in line, and 2 parking lots full of various upcoming work.
In reply to SV reX :
Sounds like a business opp elsewhere.
In reply to grover :
No thanks. It's a business I wouldn't want.
Huge up front investment, then working your ass off 7 days when military contracts come in.
Dealing with customers who want you to make their 60 year old rust bucket piece of E36 M3 cars perfect, and griping about costs.
Discovering every other car is actually held together with Bondo.
Little old ladies with wrought iron garage sale finds with broken legs that they think can be made perfect for $25.
Lots of technical spec knowledge that changes every time a contract comes in.
Working continuously in head to toe protective gear and a respirator in 125* heat.
Nope. I'll pay the man.
For those of us less familiar with these things, what are the advantages of taking this step?
I wouldn't tell someone "Hey, go powder coat your car" just for the sake of powder coating. But I seam welded the chassis. The seam welding left a lot of light rust and bare metal. Since the chassis is bare, it wasn't hard to have the entire thing sandblasted. Sand blasted areas will rust again quickly, so they need to be primed immediately. This shop is not an automotive paint and body shop that occasionally sandblasts. They are an industrial sandblasting shop that prepares metal. They don't use wet paint processes. They powder coat.
If I had sandblasted it then taken it to a paint and body shop, there would have been lag time between, and it would have rusted. At this shop, it went in the oven the same day it was sandblasted.
The powder coat is a better bonded material and more durable.
Here's an article on the differences between wet and powder paints:
And the reason for the epoxy? Because it's an incredibly hard and durable finish.
The sandblasting gave me the opportunity to really see the condition of the chassis.
There was no rust anywhere, and only 1 spot that had been repaired before. The fender had been scraped, and had a patch panel welded in with a bondo skim coat.
It's a really good condition chassis.
Here's a few more pics of the finished chassis:
I'm really impressed; that chassis is beautiful. I'm also impressed by their attention to detail in protecting all the threads. Heck of a testimonial for that shop.
With the seam welding and lovely prep you've got an awesome base for your new Miata!
In reply to dculberson :
Thank you. I'm excited!
Thanks for the additional background!
So those pictures above are your Miata Powder coated and you did some body work before it was powdwer coated? I though the steel was too hot to do filler work and the it would just fall off. So now that it is on wheels again. Is it going to a body shop to have it painted the orange you want it? This is a first that I have seen or heard about powder coating a car.
In reply to MyMiatas :
No. I didn't do body work before the powder. The one spot of bondo that existed on the car was sandblasted off before the powder coat. There is only a small bit of body work to do. It will be done along with the final paint.
Don't overthink the powder coat. Just think of it as primer. It's a really good primer applied in a different manner, but still primer.
Yes. Next stop is the body shop to have it jammed out in final body color (engine bay, trunk, door jams). Then I will do the reassembly, align the panels, and complete the paint.
Most people send their car to a paint and body shop and have primer applied wet. If any sandblasting is done, it is done by the body shop.
The only difference here is that I had the sandblasting and priming done by an industrial sandblasting shop instead of a paint and body shop.
It enabled me to do a much more thorough sandblast job, by a shop that specializes in that specific task.
That explains the sand on the top of the quarter panel. At least the powder coat is sticking to everything it is blown towards. I'm sure it reaches all the nooks and crannies due to the electric static that helps it stick.
Ok, thats neat. And looks really, really good.
If yall think of the product more as an e-coat luke aftermarket patch panels than actual powder coat, it makes more sense. At least in my head.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
What's an e-coat luke aftermarket patch panel?
If you buy an aftermarket quarter panel patch, its coated in a resilient black coating that is an electrostatic applied primer.
In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :
Gotcha
I think some of you are confused as to what powder coating is. It's a PROCESS, not a PRODUCT.
There are many types of wet paint (oil based, latex, epoxy, etc). But they can all be applied with a brush.
Similarly, there are many types of powder. Powder coating is just the brush.
The most common powder is a polyester, or polyester blend. It's what we see on wheels, smaller parts, etc. It is more UV stable, and more consistent colors.
This powder is epoxy. It's harder and more durable. It bonds better, and can be applied thicker. It is thermosetting, not thermoplastic. That means it chemical changes when heated to bond with itself better, but it can't be undone. You can't melt it again and reuse it. It has chemically changed to a different material. It has superior chemical and corrosion resistance. It's no good if left outside exposed to sunlight, but an exceptionally good primer under a coat of paint.
Here's a good article on the different types of powder:
Missed this back at the beginning, but following now.... it's always nice to see a car coming back to life, even if it is reincarnated in a new body!
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