Apexcarver said:I have the same winch on the lift for my f500 now. Converted it to that from a hand crank.
Works pretty well
Yeah, Im happy with it. I upgraded the cable from a 50ft cable to a 65ft cable that I found on Amazon for about $30. The additional 15ft allows me more capability to reach the edge of the street with the cable + tow straps.
petey said:
cool build.ive been building mustangs for 32 years and having owned 46 of the damn things the one youre doing is exactly what i want to do next.till then i has this Teksid blocked mark 8 motor with an eaton 112 in my lovely volvo wagon...best thing about mustang builds is that theres 11,935,266 aftermarket and factory parts for them.buy a wrecked cobra of any vintage you get a ton of good parts that can be swapped onto any 79 up mustang in a weekend
Your brick is so awesome. I bet that thing goes like a rocket ship on ecstasy. Your workmanship looks superb.
petey said:
and this is the intake y'all need.97 98 mark 8 with the sidemount twin throttle body and plastic imrc plates.that stupid rear throttle body actually fit the 740 but doesn't fit any foxbodys without attacking the firewall like it owes you money
This is so cool.
The engine plan for my car is to go Mark VIII Teksid block and internals, 2V Romeo PI heads with mild cams, some type of performance intake manifold, and shorty headers. If I can get 325 rwhp, I'll be happy with that. The PI heads on the Teksid internals will bump compression north of 11.5 to 1 so FI is out of the question. Plus I like the idea of an NA road course screamer.
LONG TERM I may pull the Teksid and build for a Kenne Bell or go Coyote. But both of those are $10K+ projects and thats not happening any time soon so I'll be happy with my Teksid 2v in the short term.
FM: What's the move to 2V heads when the Mark VIII shipped with 4V heads? Besides the easy bump in compression, is there a power advantage there? What fuel would you need to run to keep that motor happy at 11.5:1 compression?
In reply to FatMongo :
It's ridiculous.the trans isn't fully on board yet but the engine is stunning if you lock it in first gear.easily over 400 hp even in it's current low boost (big pulley ) config.smaller pulley is on the way....yay
Good thing there's a tremec out in the shed if the auto doesn't work out
In reply to FatMongo :
I've built 3 cammed 2v engines and on a power per dollar scale they suck badly.its more economical (more hp per dinero) to go with a blower. Turbo is cheaper but unless you size properly you get the lag.on a stock 2v a "little" t3/4 hybrid gives great response but it's weak up top
Or go old school and load in a 351w for half the price lol
You can also swap the 2v piston s into the teksid.same bore and they're clip ins so no press work.quick hone of the block and swap em in then drop the compression for the cheapness
pres589 (djronnebaum) said:FM: What's the move to 2V heads when the Mark VIII shipped with 4V heads? Besides the easy bump in compression, is there a power advantage there? What fuel would you need to run to keep that motor happy at 11.5:1 compression?
Great question.
First, the Mark VIII heads are crap (B heads). They are very restrictive N/A and cause the Mark VII motors to really top out at 250-260 rwhp in stock form. (My current 2V setup with just exhaust puts down ~245 rwhp).
Second, the Mark VII motor needs all kinds of model specific accesories to work as a 32 valve - things like Mark VII upper & lower intake, or Cobra upper and lower intake, throttle cable, hoses, etc. All those little thing are no longer in production and the only car that shares commonalities with them is the 96-98 Cobra - meaing simple parts like a throttle cable are no longer in production and the cost is through the roof - ~$200.
To get a running 96-98 Cobra or Mark VII engine in my car, i would end up spending $1000 in just accessories and supplemental parts and be at ~270 rwhp.
To do a Teksid 2v, I can just use either my current PI heads or buy a used pair of Romeo PI heads (<$200), throw in a pair of Stage I cams ($600), and either re-use essentially everything from my current engine - I would likely spring for a performance intake manifold (~$800) and some shorty headers ($400-$800) but could use the OEM intake and exhaust manifolds if I wanted to go super cheap. So for somewhere in the range of $2500, I should be at 325 whp on the conservative side and 350 on the optimistic side.
Also, Im pretty cheap so the above work for me.
Makes sense. I remember reading that the Mark VIII motor was not really as powerful as it could have been. I'm sure with enough money and time that upper end could be made to work much better but it's obviously not so cost effective go to that route.
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
Some of the fastest mod motors in history (read John mihovetz) used B heads.spend a few hours with a die grinder and turn the dual ports into a knife edged single then open up the exhaust (just gasket match and go in 1/2") and they flow far better than stock.cams get stupid expensive, as 4 billet cams plus spring kit is near 2k for quality stuff.
That's why you do a port job get rid of the imrc add boost and 4.10s and things get really interesting.and that's why I looooove the 4v
In reply to petey :
much like Frank's red hot I put that chit on everything
This is in my F150 by the way. 5.1 CHP stroker and port job as described earlier.then a lightning m112 42lb injectors and longtubes...and a 5 speed to boot
In reply to petey :
So Im lazy and soft and used the freezing temperatures as an excuse not work on the car - as such, I didnt manage to get the car in the garage over the weekend. I was able to clean up my work area pretty well though - as that provided an excuse to stay in the relative warmth of the garage and claim some type of productivity. It probably been 18 months since Ive seen the full tops of my work benches:
Also, I did add the little Mustang placard that a good buddy of mine gave me years ago and that just at in a nook or cranny for a long time. Its now put to good use.
I finally decided to get the car in to the garage. However, I decided Id rather pull it in from the back end and have the front point out. Well, this necessitated a little bit of a comedy show of rolling a dead car down the drive way into the street and then pushing it a few feet so it could hook a tow strap up to my 4runner and they using the 4runner to pull it up the driveway at an angle that I could then hook it up to a winch.
Long story short, I ended up with car in this orientation:
A couple of minutes of pulling with the electric winch and fine tuning with the steering whrrl got the car to almost exactly where I wanted it:
Now its ready for the pain in the ass procedure of getting it up on blocks and stands high enough to be able to pull and remove a TR3650 transmission.
I feel for you man.after doing so many t5s on my back I now just pull the whole engine and trans out.believe it or not it's easier and takes less time lol
Plus the cherry picker does most of the grunt work.im getting old.
Good luck. Hopefully we can get in some track time this year sooner than later. Have you decided on a clutch?
Patientzero said:Good luck. Hopefully we can get in some track time this year sooner than later. Have you decided on a clutch?
Yeah, I went with the Exedy Mach 350 and a Ford Motorsport Billet STEEL flywheel. The Exedy was too good of a price to pass up and I dont foresee myself outpacing its power rating for a looooong time (Im at ~245 rwhp and plan to be at no more than 350rwhp) for this phase of the car.
Absolutely. Track time for certain in the Spring.
petey said:I feel for you man.after doing so many t5s on my back I now just pull the whole engine and trans out.believe it or not it's easier and takes less time lol
Plus the cherry picker does most of the grunt work.im getting old.
You're not wrong. I actually have the nice 800lb transmission jack from Harbor Freight which works really nice. My bitch isnt about pulling the tranny on stands, its th narrow area I have to work with - it makes it an aboslutely bitch to get the car up on stands and to move around or under the car. Otherwise, if I had a couple of extra feet on each side, it would be a cake job.
So due to a multitude of reasons, a couple of the main ones being the crazy cold weather and my impeding shoulder surgery, I didnt document the clutch/flywheel replacement as well as a build thread deserves, but I think people here have seen a routine clutch replacement many times, so we'll just hit the high points.
Once, I organized my workspace and dragged the car in, I got to work dropping the TR3650. This is a Tremec 5 speed that backed up the early 2000's Mustang GTs. Its a bit heavier than I anticipated and very tall at the bellhousing. The TR3650 doesnt separate from its bellhousing like the T45 or T5 do, so it made it a bit harder to pull and manhandle, but otherwise routine getting out:
So I kind of jumped ahead a little bit in the thread... the reason the car was deadlined is that Patientzero convinced me to sign up for a Track Night in America at Heartland Park in August. Conveniently, he bailed and I went ahead and went through with the event. It was a blast, but literally on the last lap of the final session of the day, I blew out my clutch... or at least lost function of it. Was able to get the car into the pits and then decided to try to drive it the 90 miles back home. I literally made it on the last scraps of my clutch - to the point that I coasted up my driveway with the last gasp of forward motion the car was able to provide for itself.
A preliminary morning after inspection revealed this:
What you're seeing is a failed throw out bearing and the shreds of clutch disc that fell out of the transmission tunnel after I took the inspection cover off.
So, after removing and examining all the ey components of the driveline, the only apparent failure was a catastrophically failed throw out bearing which ate up the transmission side of the clutch disc. The flywheel and the engine side of the clutch disc looked pretty decent.
Here is what an annihilated TO bearing looks like compared to a good one:
Two side of the same coin... here is one perfectly serviceable side of the clutch disc:
.... and the completely trashed, bare metal on the other side:
Don't blame that on me. You skipped the next one...
Patientzerio =
Anyway, so while I was in there, I did a new OEM rear main seal and went with a Ford billet steel flywheel - a compromise between the OEM chunk and a lightweight aluminum. flywheel.
Ford Racing Flywheel:
Rear main seal tucked in, sealed, and torqued. Interesting note: Ford calls for an 'oil slinger' to sit on top of the RMS. There's debate as to if it does anything, but since its supposed to be there, I went to the dealer and spent $10 to get one.
RMS with new pilot bearing in residence. For the first time in my life, I used the 'bread trick' to get the old pilot bearing out - and it worked like a charm. The key is to may sure you are sealing the cavity with your pushing implement. In my case, I used an M12 or M14 bolt with electrical tape around it to make it a nice snug fit through the old pilot bearing hole. One slice of white bread and a few minutes of tapping with a small mallet and it came right out.
Yes, I scratched the face of the crank. No, I dont care. You try sitting 'Indian style' under car, huddled in the cavity formerly occupied by a transmission, in a dark, freezing garage, soaked in grease, trying to pry an old seal out.
Oil slinger:
A little bit of mission creep caused me to replace engine and transmission mounts with Energy Suspension units. My own stupidity caused a major headache when I ended up breaking a thread chaser in a motor mount hole with a jagged piece protruding out of the block. A lot of cussing, some bolt extractors, and a very sharp pair of Knipex pliers finally got the offending piece out and allowed me to finish up that part of the project.
To catch everything up, I finished the car last week - a day before my scheduled shoulder surgery. The car as she sits now (she got there on her own power):
The slob that owns this car 
(I should be down from any heavy lifting for about 6-8 weeks):
I did drive the car one handed this weekend. So there is that. But spirited driving is a few weeks away.
Forgot to add... fortunately everything works great, clutch, pedal, flywheel. I didnt notice any difference between the OEM flywheel and the billet steel flywheel. Although Ive only driven it about 10-15 miles.
What happened to your shoulder? I had surgery on a torn labrum a few years back.
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