New Old Truck

I think "Farm Truck Racing" on the back window would be a good idea.

BrokenYugo wrote: "Double bend" lever? A remote shifter doesn't need to be bolted to the trans.

So I have thought about this a fair amount and I would think that unless the trans is mounted with solid bushings wouldn't the body and trans move independently putting stress on the sifter? I know people run set ups like that but just seems like it would put stress on the trans.

I ended up with a system like this in my RX7, it works well and I could adjust it to shorten the throw a bit more if I wanted to.

This might have just become my favorite thread. My first vehicle was a 77 short box chevy and I've had three others since then. Also, remote shifters! I've been looking and trying to engineer something like these for another chevy truck that I dd and sometimes autox.

Skervey wrote:

BrokenYugo wrote: "Double bend" lever? A remote shifter doesn't need to be bolted to the trans.

So I have thought about this a fair amount and I would think that unless the trans is mounted with solid bushings wouldn't the body and trans move independently putting stress on the sifter? I know people run set ups like that but just seems like it would put stress on the trans. I ended up with a system like this in my RX7, it works well and I could adjust it to shorten the throw a bit more if I wanted to. img src="http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sda-555-7321_w.jpg" />

Thinking about it more front-back it would just move the handle around it's pivot rather than the whole thing moving. Trying to model the twisting in my head gives me a headache, I THINK you don't get bind (the misaligned hinges effect) because the lever is free to move on both axes, so it'd just also move fore-aft a little when the engine/trans twists?

In reply to Skervey:

I would need that plate facing the other way around.

Some friends told me I was doing the towing wrong:

I thought I was the smartest man alive Saturday evening riding home. "I'm getting 50mpg, getting to ride 140 miles AND auto-x the farm truck! I'm a friggin GENIUS!". Sunday morning was 55* and fog so thick I couldn't see the next dash on the road. For 70 miles. Meh... still worth it. Most useful CAM racecar there for the weekend! Plus, I could stand in the bed to watch and get an awesome photo(can't hotlink, must go to my faceyspace to see)

Forgot to mention..... weight on the scales with a full tank of fuel 3680lbs. Heads, transmission will drop 100lbs off of it. Seats and little stuff here and there it's very conceivable that this thing could be under 3500lbs with a tank of fuel.

So why DOES a challenger weigh so much more? Even my headlight bezels are metal.

Bobzilla wrote: Forgot to mention..... weight on the scales with a full tank of fuel 3680lbs. Heads, transmission will drop 100lbs off of it. Seats and little stuff here and there it's very conceivable that this thing could be under 3500lbs with a tank of fuel. So why DOES a challenger weigh so much more? Even my headlight bezels are metal.

25 air bags and all the extra metal added for crumple zones and side impact absorbtion. My wagons all metal and lighter then your truck, so theres an arguement either way!

Im not usually a stepside guy but your truck looks good with that bed.

I get a chance I'll get some pictures up of the massive body roll from this weekend. One pic looks like I'm about to plow the apex cone.... but the 4-wheel drift took me out past it. LEt me find that one...

Here it is

In reply to Bobzilla:

Looks like the cops are just out of frame & hot on your tail.

locker on it's way....

I could see getting it to under 3500 lbs no problem, still a good bit of weight you could take out of it. CAM crowd has some fast 67-72 trucks, no reason you can't do the same with yours.

I have a desire to build a fast pickup for autox and hill climbs, maybe one day I will get to do it.

Luckily I was blessed without all the heavy stuff like AC, dash vents, interior lights.... Hell a fiberglass hood would lose me another 30 lbs!

I just looked..... I can get fiberglass beds, hoods, fenders, inner fenders... even a fiberglass CAB. E36 M3... I can get this thing down to 2500lb! I won't.... but I could.fiberglass fenders and hood for another 100lbs of weight loss wouldn't be a bad idea though...

Looks like I made the National Autocross News facey space page!

OK,new "problem".... technically its an old one, just not as bad. When around 1000rpm, and try to accelerate it will "load up" and have mini and sometimes full blown backfires up through the carb. Hit the clutch, ricer rev and it clears right up and is fine. Run 1500-2000rpm at steady speed and you can feel it eventually start to surge slightly.... then slow down, roll onto the throttle and same problem as above.

New wires, plugs, cap/rotor, carb dialed in and timing set to 12* base, ~34-ish total. What am I missing?

Vacuum advance? What carb?

Quick Fuel Technologies Holley double pumper 650cfm. Dist is a standard HEI, vacuum advance with the springs and bushings for mechanical advance as well. Dist is fairly new billet unit, had some ignition module brand I did not recognize when I changed cap and rotor (PPT?). I cleaned the squrters on a previous suggestion, but they were really clean already. Fires up cold without touching the pedal.

also, all the leans:

Also, great pics from the Cam challenge: pretty cars

Bobzilla wrote: also, all the leans:

Only on the front half it looks like. Holy frame flex Batman!

Sounds like clogged idle air bleeds or a bad power valve.

In reply to Crackers:

cab mounts are toast.... well, 40 year old desert truck dried out and done for. So the cab moves a bit more because it weighs more.

In reply to Dusterbd13:

QFT's don't use powervalves I hear.

EDIT: I have this one: 650

I knew these were quite flexy over uneven ground or medians/sidewalks. I'm just surprised how much it twists while cornering.