I really, really like that truck!
I also “gave it a bath” meaning I used glass cleaner on the chrome and wiped the dust off the paint.
That was my co driver. He’s like me when we have passengers. We like to make it fun. I loved the tire smoke in 35* rainy weather. That makes me smile.
Needs a bigger front bar for sure. A real alignment and about 100-150hp more. THEN it’ll be funny.
Neither. Wife and I took it to watch a movie. Nice day, so we had the vents open for airflow. Pulled into the garage, wife couldn't get the catch to rotate, so I reached over put my hand on it and started to twist and it shattered. The amount of force that was used was very minimal. these were original 40 year old glass that spent 40 years being baked in the southern arizona sun.
well that sure beats "some unkown punk kid" tossing rocks at your miata and busting the driver's mirror and roll-up window
Just found a pair of complete doors with good glass etc for $200. Even has good main glass to replace my crappy tinted ones.
So... I learned this morning just how low the truck is. I'm now grading the gravel road I live on with my LCA's. In all fairness they added a bunch of gravel and it's all piled into channels on hte road, but still.
I can use my air dam to measure wether my grass needs cut. 5 inches.
Which means you must be lower than me.
Which means i NEED bags. Just so i can be cool like you.
Is that how this works?
Mire on topic: after doing one lap, what changes to the truck do you habe planned? Events like that really change my thought process on builds.
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
Truck plans remain unchanged. Its just not going on One Lap. lol
I'm so low because I have 25" tall front tires. I'm looking at 18x9.5 square with some 275/40/18's (26.7") which will give me another inch of clearance under the LCA's and crossmember. These trucks were meant to be on 27-28" tall tires, so it's stoopid short right now.
I'm going to snap a pic at lunch at just how low it is.
So, how does one determine which master cylinder to use? I'm using the stock front calipers/rotors, LT1 camaro rear calipers in the rear. I was hoping there was some chart on the Wilwood page that would show me what to use but there's not. Ideas?
Bob the REAL oil guy. said:So, how does one determine which master cylinder to use? I'm using the stock front calipers/rotors, LT1 camaro rear calipers in the rear. I was hoping there was some chart on the Wilwood page that would show me what to use but there's not. Ideas?
break out a spreadsheet?
too soon?
sleepyhead said:Bob the REAL oil guy. said:So, how does one determine which master cylinder to use? I'm using the stock front calipers/rotors, LT1 camaro rear calipers in the rear. I was hoping there was some chart on the Wilwood page that would show me what to use but there's not. Ideas?
break out a spreadsheet?
too soon?
You, sir, just won the internets for the day. Thanks to all for playing, there will be a new winner tomorrow.
Pete Gossett said:In reply to Bob the REAL oil guy. :
That swaybar bracket looks way too weak for the task to me.
I agree. On both ends. The bar is a 1.25" solid bar. I'm looking to upgrade, and thinking about the Crew cab's 1.5" front bar. I need to stop being lazy and crawl under both and measure.
I think if you box the mount, it would be bomb proof.
Look at the miata reinforced sway bar mounts. Very similar design at the oe level, and may give you a way to strengthen yours.
In reply to Dusterbd13 :
My current plan is to find a suitable replacement bar and then mount directly to the frame. These mounts drag on EVERYTHING. in all honesty I shoulf have likely removed those brackets when I lowered because they now have an upward slant sitting on level pavement from the frame mount to the control arm.
I haven't hit anything with the low front arms on my '77 (3" BellTech spindles), but on my '61 I'm going to section the crossmember and possibly also Z the frame to get the arms up off the ground.
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