New Old Truck

Run it and see. It will probably be fine.

If it doesn't work, buy the bigger ones and sell your old ones.

What are you running for front springs??

In reply to SkinnyG :

I forgot which brand of 2" lowering springs. They do well. Don't ride bad and have decent stiffness. With the Tib coming online, the truck is moving off the "Racetruck" direction and more "Cruiser that hits cones occasionally" path.

200 miles now on the engine. Pavement was damp this morning... its now a 4 gear wheel spinner with the 275's. Need to re-adjust the valves as I have a little ticking and it sounds like maybe a couple of exhaust valves are a little tight. Cruising at 45mph it's still just above idle, love that transmission and I think staying with the 4.10's was the smart move. Should get another 100 miles on tonight of pedestrian motoring going to a work event and then I think I'll change the oil. That should put me around 300 miles on the break in. 

In reply to bobzilla :

Awesome,  that’s such a cool truck.

In reply to bobzilla :

How does the truck do in the multi loop roundabout?  

John Welsh said:

In reply to bobzilla :

How does the truck do in the multi loop roundabout?  

bwahahaha

In reply to John Welsh :

dont know yet. 

last weekend I got half the valves adjusted (the easy side). Runs better. Need to finish the job, but I thought I'd drive it in to work as its supposed to be really nice today. Needed gas so I headed to the gas station, as I pull in I hear the exhaust dragging. That's new. The hanger pulled through the bolt/washer. Crap.... alright, I'll take it home and grab the other truck. At least my E36 M3ty tack welds are holding. Made it to my gravel road and off it comes. The good news is I have enough ground clearance to clear a 40-series flowmaster and the passenger side head sounds AMAZING on an open header. 

Well crap... now I need to find a better welder (person, not just machine).

Made the first event today. Didn't blow up. So overall success is good. Things did break. More on that later....

How did it run? Amazeballs. Seriously... you don't ever need WOT because its next to impossible to keep the rear tires planted. Most steering is done with the right foot. The round handhold in front of you is there for parking lots and something to grasp onto when turning. Engine sounds really healthy, a little rich though. It shoots nice fireballs. Did I mention it makes a ton more power? Beause it does. 

Now the bad.... it leaks oil while running. At the rear of the engine. I;m guessing it may be the (new) rear main. The last run it made (which was entertaining to watch!) came back with a serious header leak. It's leaking from a single pipe somewhere in the driver's side. So I will need to look into that this week. Developed a miss on the way home. It may be the header leak melting a plugwire, but it's too hot and I'm too tired to look into it today. 

Pics coming tomorrow. Maybe a vid or two. 

Nothing like an SBC misbehaving and still putting a  on your face.....great day I'd say...congrats!!!

My money is on the little fitting for oil pressure gauge leaking.

Oil pressure gauge fitting, or even valve covers, or the intake manifold china walls.  All with drain down the back.

You've got a 1-piece rear main seal, correct? (passenger side dipstick).  Not likely the rear main unless you really wrecked it putting it on.

OK, so I don't know what to do here. I have an issue where cruising at 1400 rpms in 4/5th gear (side street speeds) it surges/occasional miss. Bring the revs up to 2000 and it smooths out and push it past this it rips your face off. Seriously screams to 5500+ like a crack infused speed freak. I know it's still rich down low (idle and low rpms it is really stinky.) Since I know diddly squat about carbs I'm guessing this is likely where my problem lies. Jetting? IT's a Quick Fuel Technologies 650 double pumper with mechanical secondaries. I have no idea what jets are in it or (other than youtube videos) how to change and or what to change to. 

MAybe I should just tell the wife that I have to change to an inection unit and be done with this wierd black magic/voodoo thing they call a Carb. 

one other thing, when rolling into the throttle down low under load, it loads up, bogs then revs. It doesn't do this above 2k or in lower gears (1/2 it has no cares).

Carbs 

In reply to Floating Doc :

You know, I haven't sacrificed a goat yet this year for the carb. Maybe that's the problem?

You need to sacrifice a Volkswagon Beetle to the great Engine Genie in the sky.

Surging is usually a lean condition.

What power valve do you have in there?  I like a power valve that opens at half the idle vacuum.  If you're idling at 18", get a power valve that opens at 9". If you're already at low vacuum because cam, the power valve can be opening way too early, flooding the engine.

Float level plays a role in -global- mixtures: high float level = rich everywhere, low float level = lean everywhere.  It should be set to spec, or failing that, sitting level.

I checked the ppwk that came with the carb. It's a 9" PV and we are getting right around 19" of vacuum currently. Talking with some of my local hotrodder friends they suggested that the cam/head combo may not like the low rpm high load of 5th gear at 1400rpm. It smoothes out noticably once you move up past 1700. I know the cam specs show it makes power from 1900-5600, so it may just be in an unhappy range. The heads are pretty large in the intake size (200cc) so it mmay just not have the port velocity at those lower rpms.

So the solution is to just drive faster!

In reply to bobzilla :

A little too much cam, a little too large of ports... nothing that an extra quarter inch of stroke won't fix.

Floating Doc said:

In reply to bobzilla :

A little too much cam, a little too large of ports... nothing that an extra quarter inch of stroke won't fix.

twss?

Clearly, deeper gears are in order.

I have 4.10's. I went with the deeper 5th gear with the TKO (.68 instead of the .82) so it could travel at freeway speeds on normal sized tires at a reasonable (2000-2500rpm) rev range. 

bobzilla said:

Floating Doc said:

In reply to bobzilla :

A little too much cam, a little too large of ports... nothing that an extra quarter inch of stroke won't fix.

twss?

Not how I intended it, but...

Interesting day at Grissom today. Mostly hard left handers with a big slalom in the middle. After my second run she was smoking hard out of the right bank. Oil pressure never dropped. Makes no extra noise. Let it sit and cool down for 10 minutes and no more smoke. Pulled the plug on more runs and headed home. 70 miles not a hint of smoke. As I got closer to home hammered it through 4 gears. No smoke. 

So so here’s my theory..... I have redonkulous oil pressure (~65psi at anything above idle 70cold). The course was mostly left handed sweepers. I’m thinking the high oil pressure pumps a lot of oil up those pushrods and all of those hard corners we’re keeping the oil in the valve cover until it literally flooded over the tops of the intake valve(s) on that bank. Being fairly cheap heads they probably don’t have the finest quality valve seals. So the combination of mediocre scraper seals with oil pooling on top of the valve makes smoke. 

Im going to try and duplicate this at work one day this week and see if I can replicate it. If I can I’ll by a set of felpro seals and call it a day.