Your rotor has a larva on it.
Your rotor has a larva on it.
In reply to corsepervita :
That rotor looks amazingly like the rotor from an 80s VWAG product, minus the resistor.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to corsepervita :
That rotor looks amazingly like the rotor from an 80s VWAG product, minus the resistor.
I would certainly agree with that. Assuming it is a match for something VAG you have to be a little careful with the shaft diameters once you get to about '89 or '90 (10mm vs 17mm from memory?) but other than that they tend to be fairly similar atleast on the VW side as the cap diameter and basic architecture is the same from '68 right through to the early 90's at least. The only real change is the swap from female to pin type ht lead terminals at '85 but that obviously means nothing in this context.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to corsepervita :
That rotor looks amazingly like the rotor from an 80s VWAG product, minus the resistor.
If memory serves, the ignition system for the jalpa cross references to the early porsche 928.
If anyone has the lowdown on potentially a non-resistor rotor that would fit one, that'd be awesome.
I've made one and it seems to be working so far but i'd much rather have one intended for the purpose.
The critical dimensions will be the shaft diameter, the radius of the rotor (shaft center to tip), where the keyway, if any, is located, and to a lesser extent the height from the top of the distributor shaft to the center contact.
Resistor in the distributor rotor! And here I thought Audi's separate resistor on the plug wires was odd enough
Pete. (l33t FS) said:The critical dimensions will be the shaft diameter, the radius of the rotor (shaft center to tip), where the keyway, if any, is located, and to a lesser extent the height from the top of the distributor shaft to the center contact.
Resistor in the distributor rotor! And here I thought Audi's separate resistor on the plug wires was odd enough
Imagine my surprise when I read others complaining their rotors were frying after upgrading to msd coils for the same reason LOL.
Got the new rotor that's supposed to not have a resistor, haven't tested the fitment but it looks like it should fit.
Anyone here deal with any of the weird european double row, non-tapered wheel bearings? Looking for a soundboard. Here's the issue, the front wheel bearings are redone, however, all documentation I can find refers back to roughly 20-30 ft lbs of force for the primary nut holding them in, and then of course, stake the nut. My understanding of this is that if you go too far on the torque with this particular hub setup, you will warp the cage. This cross references back to an RCZ and C6 Citroen. I cannot find a factory manual, and the dealerships I've called have no idea.
To put my mind at ease, for such a hug setup where it's using a double row, non-tapered setup, does that sound acceptable?
Currently working on "making" a regulator setup for the passenger side window.
If you have the bearing brand and part number or type and dimensions, you can look up the specifications on the bearing manufacturer's website. It's probably made by SKF, INA, Timken, Shaeffler, or will cross reference to something on one of their websites.
tester (Forum Supporter) said:If you have the bearing brand and part number or type and dimensions, you can look up the specifications on the bearing manufacturer's website. It's probably made by SKF, INA, Timken, Shaeffler, or will cross reference to something on one of their websites.
Checked on various websites and different car makes using it seem to have different numbers. Seen everything from 100nm to 180nm, and 38kgm. So frustrating lol.
This is a very old guide but has been so far, the best I've found.
https://www.vintagelamborghini.com/images/lamborghinidocuments/jalpa/Jalpa_Front_Wheel_Bearing.pdf
Called about 10 dealers today to talk to service and parts. 2 of which were willing to help me on my hunt for info. Gave them factory part numbers, and photos, so we'll see where it goes. Reached out to some of the old timers in the vintage groups to see if anyone has the lowdown on a factory service manual.
Things done:
- Ran new leads in a new fusebox.
- Installed breaker style fuses for the most important circuits
- Got all the gauge pods back together
- Installed my new relay box for the window motors, no more running that crap through the switches.
- Pulled out, cleaned, and reinstalled the engine bay windows
- Printed new trim pieces for the rear quarter leather trim behind the driver seat
- Printed new trim pieces for the front dash since it's got that v8 stereo in it.
- Printed dust plugs for the itbs
- Replaced the old "meh" general brand gauges with VDO and tested them.
- Added new functions to the digital dash for coolant and IAT. Have yet to update the dash yet, all done on my local pc but it's gonna be rad.
All little E36 M3, she's gonna be ready for car show season.
Things left to do:
- Hunt down the new coolant leak that appears to be from a loose clamp. Easy fix.
- Figure out where my battery drain is coming from. Probably an easy fix.
- Put interior all back together now that the rest is wrapped up
- Figure out which lead is coming from the new pressure sensor for the pressure and not warning light because I didn't label them because my stupid self didn't think about it at the time.
- Go drive
Well, got information back from one of my friends in the community who has contacts with one of the previous technical managers of Lamborghini. The information passed to me is that the hubs are the same as the espada and shares the parts with the espada. Those torque specs for those nuts are 38kgm, or roughly 274ft lbs of force. VASTLY different than the other numbers I was given. However, that is closer to the numbers I see used on many other cars sharing it, and since it is coming from a reputable source who has identified the hub origin, I will trust these numbers. So, this means no drive for me this weekend until i've successfully torque these down properly.
Won't let it get me down though, I'm going to wrap everything else up and get this thing ready to have fun.
corsepervita said:Well, got information back from one of my friends in the community who has contacts with one of the previous technical managers of Lamborghini. The information passed to me is that the hubs are the same as the espada and shares the parts with the espada. Those torque specs for those nuts are 38kgm, or roughly 274ft lbs of force. VASTLY different than the other numbers I was given. However, that is closer to the numbers I see used on many other cars sharing it, and since it is coming from a reputable source who has identified the hub origin, I will trust these numbers. So, this means no drive for me this weekend until i've successfully torque these down properly.
Won't let it get me down though, I'm going to wrap everything else up and get this thing ready to have fun.
I'm just coming in very late, but this seems odd. What size is the thread form?
In reply to tuna55 :
That looks reasonable for modern style wheel bearings. These aren't the old tapered rollers set up with end play on the spindle. It's probably a deep groove/angular contact ball bearing. The torque is locking the inner race to the spindle. The end play is set in the bearing assembly itself.
tuna55 said:corsepervita said:Well, got information back from one of my friends in the community who has contacts with one of the previous technical managers of Lamborghini. The information passed to me is that the hubs are the same as the espada and shares the parts with the espada. Those torque specs for those nuts are 38kgm, or roughly 274ft lbs of force. VASTLY different than the other numbers I was given. However, that is closer to the numbers I see used on many other cars sharing it, and since it is coming from a reputable source who has identified the hub origin, I will trust these numbers. So, this means no drive for me this weekend until i've successfully torque these down properly.
Won't let it get me down though, I'm going to wrap everything else up and get this thing ready to have fun.
I'm just coming in very late, but this seems odd. What size is the thread form?
42mmx1.5, they are a pretty large nut.
tester (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to tuna55 :
That looks reasonable for modern style wheel bearings. These aren't the old tapered rollers set up with end play on the spindle. It's probably a deep groove/angular contact ball bearing. The torque is locking the inner race to the spindle. The end play is set in the bearing assembly itself.
Yeah these are different than most setups I've seen since I'm more used to seeing the tapered rollers. These are double row. There was a picture I saw on an old thread let me see if I can find them.
Side note: All my struts arrived last night. Engine bay and rear trunk have fresh new struts. Feels nice. The engine bay strut was fine the entire time i've had it, and then bonked my friend on the head when it failed. So, needless to say, it was time for a new one. Also could not find a new release cable for the trunk, so I made one.
Sorry guys, I didn't realize it was that big. Carry on.
tuna55 said:Sorry guys, I didn't realize it was that big. Carry on.
Detailed the interior quite a bit, most of it is back together.
Reprinted the old switch panel, i really really hated it and was not happy with it. Needs hide but at least it looks more presentable.
Once the new switch panel is in i'm gonna put the rest of the interior pieces in tonight and.. do the front bearings and I think i'm good.
Ok that feels much better.
The white piping on the upholstry is rad.
I've slacked pretty hard on updates to this.
Since this thread:
* New AEM controller as the LC2 was malfunctioning and reading too lean when it was in fact far too rich. The street tune is now "okay" but needs a weekend to sort it out.
* I've put the interior back together! I am still missing the classic countach clock, which I would love but they fetch about $500-1000 on ebay. I think what I am going to do instead, is tie a microcontroller to read back from the dash I made and make a retro looking one out of a screen and 3d print a mount for it and do it my way. Since the dash is now digital, it'll fit.
* I took it to its first car show, the Oregon Festival of Cars!
I went to Monterey last year and met Valentino Balboni. I had dropped him an email years ago, asking if he would sign a plaque for the car to replace the previous owner's name on the dash. He told me he would be happy to, and signed it in person. It's now part of the car.
Met this guy in the blue button down at the cigar lounge years ago and found out he collects exotics. I told him about the Jalpa and I think he thought I was full of crap. He showed up to the festival of cars and showed him and he was pretty stoked to see it at last.
Here's a guy at the show who was curious about why it had no carburetors and I explained how the ITBs work as well as the fuel injection system. The judges were really curious as well. I won no awards, but I didn't enter it for that, I just wanted to take it, because I had been setting it as a goal for YEARS to take it there. I'd driven my friend's cars there for him for years and said, "Someday I'm going to take my cars." I had a buddy put it on a toy hauler since the street tune is insanely rich right now, but I still made it and drove it around the show. I've since fixed the tune, but I wasn't gonna let me down, and said "berkeley it, let's do it."
A few more pictures. The book on the top I left with the car for the show, displaying all the before and after pictures people could go through to see the journey of the car. Because I felt that was a milestone for me.
My parents came to support and snagged a pic of me.
The viper peeking next to it, I took it as well. If you're asking, "What's with the bonnet spacing?" Well, I haven't fixed the release cable properly yet, and it had a battery draw so I used the cutoff and left it partially latched during the show. No biggie but no, it's not a panel gap lol.
They ran out of room so they had me move the viper up in to the middle of the show mid day and the local news appeared to have really liked it.
I forgot to mention, I've been repairing the ultrasmith goodies. The hideaway zapper light didn't work, and now it does! I even had a custom carbon fiber mount made for it.
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