Check the block for thread condition in the stud holes as well as the studs themselves for evidence of stretch. If some of them were overtorqued during service 60 years ago the result could surface shortly after the last time apart. Look down the bores parallel to that stud too. An aside, when I read "Flattie" I think Ford as a reaction, so I came in looking for Ford content, but got something more interesting. I don't think I'm alone. Another thing mentioned was the angle of big end split on the rods. If you split them perpendicular to the bore they are too wide to pass through said bore. Common issue with long stroke engines.
914Driver said:
Me too! Maybe you can help. The copper head gasket failed between the first and second cylinders on each side. My theory is that as one piston compressed and its next door neighbor was going down, air was sucked into the one going down via the gap, creating low pressure enough to suck oil out of the crank case. The valves verify this by being choked with oily carbon.
What do you think?
Odd that they failed in one particular spot. Still, I think you're on to something.
How did the stuck bores look?
That rod and cap split design is also used on inline 6 cylinder Cummins diesels and later Subaru flat 6 engines.
And I agree with Turner, came in expecting Ford flat head content. Not disappointed at all though!
Angled rod caps are used on many long stroke engines, not just flat heads - Mini small blocks (850, 998, 1098) all used this design on their connecting rods.
How are the bores? What's the plan, clean up, new rings, very light hone and back together?
What do you suppose did the rub mark on that piston pin boss?
How much could you skim off the heads to bump the compression up, since gasoline is just a bit better now than it was in 1940!
Is there a Lasalle forum anywhere?
Edit: found one..... Cadillac & LaSalle Club Discussion Forum - Index (cadillaclasalleclub.org)
In reply to MiniDave :
CLC is a good club. Lots of knowledge there. I bumped heads with a lot of purist but there's been changes I hear.
Copper head gasket is why it failed. They're terrible at sealing unless O rings/fire rings are utilized. And then coolant still leaks anywhere it can...
As much as I enjoy all this, I don't want to do it again. If you have a better idea and a source, love to try it. =~ )
All I find is copper.
I'm very excited to see this car getting rebuilt, it's a shame the engine had to come out but I hope there aren't any more hidden surprises. The seats are like couches, and I loved the vent windows too, I bet it will be wonderful to drive!
Is that a Lycoming like the one in this Cord? Good luck with it!
914Driver said:
As much as I enjoy all this, I don't want to do it again. If you have a better idea and a source, love to try it. =~ )
All I find is copper.
Cometic will do custom gaskets.
For this one, probably worth it...
https://www.cometic.com/custom
I will disagree with Asphalt Gundam in this application. I have used copper gaskets many times on engines with compression ratios far higher than this. The pressure loads this sees will seal fine with the identical gasket you have, if that is what the currently advertised copper gaskets are. This may not be true, as what you have probably has a layer of asbestos, and nobody makes them new. Cometic is the only choice if old stock copper is not available.
NOS copper is off the shelf, wanna do this one time.
In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :
No, these are GM engines used in LaSalle (322 ci) and Cadillac (346 ci). Very heavy, very smooth.
I too would go with copper head gaskets. Just make sure they are dead soft before the install; anneal them if you have too. (Not hard to do in a home garage).
In addition to being dead soft, use Hylomar for sealing. You can get it in a little tube (that you have to apply around the water passages) or a spray can (highly suggest the spray can).
I suspect that either the head or block isn't exactly flat around that bolt hole, or more likely the bolt lost tension and allowed the leak in that spot.
BTW, Cool project! Glad to see someone take that car under their wing!
Spray the whole gasket? On SBC you duck butter some Schmutz around head bolts that pass through coolant, Hylomar does this?
This is what a CLC guy I trust said.
AFAIK, Best Gaskets --- https://bestgasket.com/vintage-engine-gaskets/ --- are just that, the best. Someone knowledgeable to talk to would be Egge Machine --- https://egge.com/ --- this sort of thing is right up their alley. Wouldn't be surprised if the gaskets they use and sell were from Best Gasket.
Edit: And/or Terrill Machine out of De Leon TX, as I was just reminded of in a response to someone else on the CLC forums.
Stampie said:
This is what a CLC guy I trust said.
AFAIK, Best Gaskets --- https://bestgasket.com/vintage-engine-gaskets/ --- are just that, the best. Someone knowledgeable to talk to would be Egge Machine --- https://egge.com/ --- this sort of thing is right up their alley. Wouldn't be surprised if the gaskets they use and sell were from Best Gasket.
Edit: And/or Terrill Machine out of De Leon TX, as I was just reminded of in a response to someone else on the CLC forums.
All of those names are familiar to anyone who reads about old engines on speed-talk.com.
Uncle David (Forum Supporter) said:
In reply to NermalSnert (Forum Supporter) :
No, these are GM engines used in LaSalle (322 ci) and Cadillac (346 ci). Very heavy, very smooth.
Man, for some reason I did not expect these kinds of capacities from flathead 8s. For some reason I have it stuck in my head that early v8= small displacement. I wish there was more of this stuff around out here in the desert, it would likely be salvageable. I guess there just isn't much of it left anywhere though. Shame.
This is super cool. I dig flathead stuff.
OK class, this is why we read the book and walk away when you're tired or confused.
Before installing piston rings to the piston and slamming it into the hole, place each ring in the hole it will live in, then using a ringed piston, slide a piston in upside down! This ensures the ring is perpendicular and square. There should be a gap between the ends of the ring; usually .002 - .006. I shoot for the high end or even a bit over.
These are boys that caused the whole lock up, probably never got gapped (I assume). These two I had to beat out of the cylinder.
I was going to run them through the dishwasher, but that never worked before. So, prick punch the center of the ring and drill a bit. Use a punch or cheap screwdriver to drive the ring out. Mine were so encapsulated in burnt oil and carbon that it came out in 1" long chunks.
Now use a broken piece to clean out the groove.
Not so gappy.
I dropped the heads off at the Napa machine shop this morning and spent quite some time talking to the chief machinist there. He answered a lot of questions, like sealants around the head bolts that pass through a coolant area (sealant at the threads and shoulder near the head).
Napa will steam clean the heads and take .005 - .006 off. Doubt it will bump my 6.5:1 compression much .....
When I was a kid, stuff like this was forty years old and, unless it was a hot rod, about as interesting and relevant as a quilting bee. Maybe I've been watching too much Cold War Motors, but now it's pretty dang fascinating. Carry on and keep the updates coming, please.
What was it holding the trans up?
In reply to 914Driver :
Oof. Did they score the bores, or did you luck out?
