Old habit S10

Circle track pull slave. Or, make a push slave brackets like the gmt400 trucks got. It essentially mounted to the bellhousing bolts, triangulated to the clock somewhere, and allowed the slave to push the fork like mechanical linkage did

What duster said.

or hydraulic Throwout bearing.

Thanks! 
speedway has an affordable unit. 7/8" bore translates to 22.x mm where the s10 has a 21mm bore. Problem?

barefootcyborg5000 said:

Thanks! 
speedway has an affordable unit. 7/8" bore translates to 22.x mm where the s10 has a 21mm bore. Problem?

Those are slave bores?

If yes, then your new slave will require 10% more fluid volume to travel the same distance. I *think* it'll be fine, but I'm not a clutch system expert. If I'm thinking right, the worst case condition would be with new clutch and flywheel, and you might not get full disengagement with clutch pedal to floor.

if those are master bores, then you should be fine.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Slave bore, yes. At least, RA lists the stock replacement as 21mm. 
there's more math involved too, since the t5 is an arm the hinges on the far side of the bellhousing with the TO bearing in the middle of the throw, where this trans hinges on the near side with the TO on the other side of the fulcrum. I don't know the leverage ratios, but I can measure them and get an idea. Internet photos of both arms show either should be roughly 2:1 mechanical advantage. 

I think my approach would be to get the slave that is sized to work with that trans and TO combination, then get the master that pushes the right amount of fluid with your pedal.

What bellhousing trans and clutch application are you actually using? I'll see if I can pull up in my DayQuil muddled brain what hydraulic clutch combinations setups I can think of that'll work with it

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

It's a Saginaw 4 speed. I don't know the original application. We got it from a guy that had a mid 60s c20, but it wasn't original. 
Thinking back, I'm sure he gave us a hydraulic setup with it, but I don't know if it's still around. 

What bellhousing? And pictures of bellhousing?

I swear that looks like an early 60s c20 hydraulic clutch bellhousing 

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Could be. But the LH header wants to occupy the same real estate, so I think I'll need that pull style slave and I'll just have to binky up a bracket for it. 

Another thought. Since I'm going to have to make a bracket anyway, why couldn't I simply add a pivot on the far side of the Saginaw setup and use the fork and hydraulics that are already in the truck? The 2.5 uses the same TO bearing as the older 350 clutch kits, and potentially I'm just drilling and tapping one hole to avoid even touching the clutch pedal or master. 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

Depends on what the inside of the bellhousing looks like over there.

The bellhousing looks like it'll play along. I'll need to do a little more checking, including separating the old engine and trans to see exactly what I'm playing with, but I have pretty high hopes I can make it work. 
 

For tonight, I submit the truck in its (hopefully) most disassembled state:

so that is some small progress. 
 

I also learned that while I do possess a wilwood master cylinder, I do not have the space for it. They do offer a remote-resevoir unit that I'll keep in mind for plan b if I can't make the fork-swap plan happen. It's tight in there:

Started by separating the Duke and the t5. Pulled the bellhousing off. Started measuring. 
 

Its that boss on the top right that was the concern. That's where the fork pivots. 
 

Seems to be plenty of room for activities. So I spent some time and made a bracket to replicate the boss in the other unit. 
 

Came out pretty good. 

It landed exactly where I had intended. Perfect. Almost. 
 

I made a bad assumption at the start. Or rather, I forgot to measure one crucial thing. The height of the clutch stack from the back surface of the block. Turns out, the 350 is 1.1250" taller than the 2.5. Not the end or the world. Simply trim the new bracket down and reweld it. It would require a hole to be drilled in the bellhousing, but I have the means. 
 

Except it won't work. The internal clutch fork I intended to use will not fit in the bellhousing with the taller clutch stack. Let alone have room to actuate. 
 

So I wasted my morning, but I learned. Measure more. Measure better. 
 

So I'll be placing an order for a new master and slave cylinder. Money I didn't want to spend, but life goes on. 
 

*edit. 
order placed. Expenses still ahead: driveshaft, exhaust?, fittings and fluids. Hoping to find exhaust and driveline in the boneyard. It's all the small fiddle stuff that will add up. Still need to figure out throttle linkage, plumb the heat/coolant lines. Need to plug a couple holes... 

In reply to barefootcyborg5000 :

Just remember what my Dad told me: 

"a ring don't plug a hole."

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

Yes, but sometimes rings can block budget amendments. Luckily I've not hit that limit yet. 
 

Motor mounts and flywheel bolts just arrived. Water pump and clutch hydraulics later this week. Then fingers crossed I can sling the engine and transmission this week/weekend. 

Got the v6 mounts in, which was a little frustrating, since the passenger side was a bolt in affair but the driver side required a couple holes to be enbiggerized. No pics. Sorry. 
 

Then I decided the wisest path forward would be to figure out the new clutch hydraulics before some egghead put an engine in the way. So I removed the old system, took some measurements, formulated a plan. I'll be reusing the remote resevoir, which will feed a nicely compact wilwood unit:

of course, it's not exactly a bolt in affair, since the stock jobby lives at a dumb angle:

The mounting holes on the new unit are .75" closer to each other than stock, and because the rod is so long and lives at the same angle I'll have to get a little creative, but I have a plan that involves a little scrap steel and some trigonometry. It'll work. Pictures when I make it real. 
For now, this is what I have to work with. 
And the other side

After that is sorted, I get to make a bracket to hold the fancy purple cylinder

But that shouldn't be too bad. There's bolts in the general area to work with. The basic plan is to hard line from the master, then a rubber brake line to connect the slave. Should be able to keep well clear of the exhaust and fuel lines that way. 
 

This weekend is mostly lost to work and social plans with Mrs BFC5K. But at least hoping to get the clutch finished-ish. 

They make 3an lines on Amazon that are crimped for cheap. Id use one for the whole clutch run. Easy button, and 30 bucks we'll spent. 

I got the master cylinder mounted and learned a bit. It's a very tight fit, and I'll have to get creative with the pressure line because standard line simply cannot make the bend I need. I think a banjo bolt is the best answer, or a flare 90 if not. Also determined a design for the slave mount, using the transmission mount. Pics when I go there next. For now, my next step is finalizing the hydraulic plumbing. 

Turns out (ba-dum-tss) that a -3 90 is just what I need to make the line actually fit where I need it. 
 

the feed line will be fed by a banjo fitting that is still in the mail, a barb adapter to the rubber line from the reservoir. The rest of the system is simple 3/16 brake line stuff.
 

This week is busy, so I won't be able to actually get to the truck until Saturday, but I should be able to jam the powertrain in, which will be very satisfying. 
 

Things I learned this week: 1/4" brake line uses 7/16-24 fittings, GM brakes use 7/16-20 banjo bolts. 3AN fittings use 3/8-24 threads. 

I still think I want to find a way to get my speedometer to function again, which should be possible with an off the shelf piece. All the other gauges will work as originally intended. If the tach I got in my NYG box still works, I'll have that too. So, you know, racecar. 

Been coming up dry on my search for adequate exhaust systems that fit my parameters and desired price, so I pulled the trigger on an easy button. 2.5" 2-1 muffler, 3" out, amazon pipe kit. It's a flow master....

But the price was good, and it'll work.

fingers crossed my guy at the yard will find a good driveline candidate soon  

With any luck, I'll get the transmission in today too. 

With oil fill tubes on both valve covers, it looks to me like your engine is throwing horns.

🤘🏻