Operation German Gamble- IAAI Salvage Acution 190E

https://cpr-manufacturing.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/aisin-ar5-billet-external-remote-shifter

drooping this here to look at in future. 

Worried about the seat belts if I remove that box, I just tried them with no battery in the car at all. Seem to still work, I guess I don't know how that box effects the seatbelts. 
 

There are small explosive charges that tighten the belts in a crash.

Normal belt operation is not affected.

In reply to bentwrench :

Thanks. I didn't know that was a thing. 

I think BMW has a similar feature, there is also a battery disconnect feature.  Car will function without this feature.  Might want to be careful while working around this stuff, disconnect battery prior to working around this stuff, similar to working around air bags.

These cars are going to keep going up in value.

TED_fiestaHP said:

I think BMW has a similar feature, there is also a battery disconnect feature.  Car will function without this feature.  Might want to be careful while working around this stuff, disconnect battery prior to working around this stuff, similar to working around air bags.

They also have one on the battery terminal in some BMWs, you are in an accident it pops and cuts power. 

Made a cut. Located about where the transmission will need to be at. super high tech work using wood block to hold up wires so they didn't get caught in the blade. 

Also for my future reference this engine bracket should be level when engine is at its correct angle. 
 

I had posted up a question on remote shifters because it looks like I am going to need one:

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/remote-shifter-for-challenge-build/178829/page1/#post3146592

the good news is I think I will have enough parts to make a remote shifter from the donor car Saab. 
 

I am not yet sure which end I will use :

but I am planning something like this 

I also decided to go ahead and order a LNF oil pan. I think it should go right on, the only issue will be checking the oil as the dipstick will be wrong. So I may need a new dipstick or dipstick tube or both. 
 

here are a couple of pictures to show the difference in the pans. I am hoping that it will give me a lot more room over the subframe. 
 

especially if I can trim some of the fins out of the way. 

Went back to the donor to look for something to use as bushings for the remote shifter. 
 

There were some on the arms that let the trunk move up and down. 
 

also a note to myself from buzzboy:

"Higher on the remote shifter relative to the transmission shortens shifter throws, lower lengthens shifter throws."

I ended up cutting the subframe, little at a time but ending up cutting it quite a bit.  I tack welded a piece of 1/8" angle to support it before I started cutting. 
 

I must have had the engine in and out of the car about 100 times now. I think I have it figured out where it is going to go. 
 

how much room do you need to leave around the engine and the subframe?

I am thinking about reusing the Mercedes mounts or just making solid mounts and just keeping the rubber mount on the transmission. 
 

here are the Mercedes mounts 

here's how much room I think I will have, but I still need to reinforce the subframe from where I cut it, and then box it back in. 
 

I am going to remeasure once I make up the mounts but here is my best guess on what my driveshaft length may need to be 

53 1/4"

I still need to get a adapter or make one like this 

https://jagsthatrun.com/products/driveshaft-adaptor-flange

next up

1. Clearance the trans tunnel just a little more

2. Start on the motor mounts  

3 figure out driveshaft 

4. order remote oil cooler adapter 

I have the engine and trans where it will probably end up just depending on driveshaft and pinion angle. 
 

Still have some trimming to do around the thermostat housing and turbo line. 
 

should have enough room for turbo and air intake tube. Not sure about how I am going to route exhaust or the tube that goes to intercooler yet. 
 

some pictures of the start of the motor mounts. 
 

I am going to put this stuff here as well so I can find it when I am setting up cooling hoses. 
 

measurements of all Saab hoses in mm

the routing I think I am going to need 

direction of flow

Solstice upper radiator hose looks like it would be pretty close to working for you: 

Are you keeping the Saab thermostat housing?

In reply to obsolete :

Thanks! That does look about right. 
 

at this point yes keeping Saab thermostat housing, unless someone has a better suggestion? 
 

I am going to have to do some sheet metal trimming anyways for that turbo banjo bolt, to be able to get the bolt out and in anyway. 

While waiting to get a driveshaft and figure out my Pinion offset setup

I saw this Desktop cnc thread so I downloaded fusion 360 and started to play around a little bit to try to make my own drive shaft adapter. 
 

I am starting by measuring the stock Mercedes flexible "thing" 

Glad my daughters hello kitty ruler has millimeters on it. 
 

It took me way too long to come up with this but it should be my base for a driveshaft adapter. I am going to look at the junkyard for something I can use on the driveshaft side. 
This is the side that fits on the three prong thing on the Mercedes diff. 

The "guibo" or rubber donut is pretty much standardized at a 90 mm PCD. 

I bought the adapter here;

https://www.l-m-r.se/p/universal/a-traktor/medbringar-hardyadapter-volvo-740-940-kardan-till-m40-lada.html

Might give an idea for a design if you want to have someone make one.

Gustaf

In reply to therealpinto :

Thanks that is the first of that style I have seen. Good reference.

Had some fun at the junkyard today. 
 

Had my first u pull experience today. All you could fit in a wagon for $100. Next time I just won't go in the winter. But what a fun way to spend a morning. 
 

That Saturn wagon looked mint. 
 

this rx7 was stripped. But must have been an electric car conversion at one point. 

Preliminary challenge math

Finished cutting the motor mounts out, and made the transmission Mount. I am waiting to weld them up until a buddy can come and help me. 
 

I took the engine out yet again and when I bought the car from the salvage auction there was a brand new blower motor in a box in the backseat. So I figured empty engine bay is the perfect time to install. 
Old:

New:

Also started to reinforce the subframe where I cut it.  Similar to dusterbd I am going to use square tube to cover as much as possible, planning to drill some holes in the bottom of the subframe to weld the square tube in. 
 

then will use 1/8" plate over top to finish it off. 
 

here is the start. Still have another 2 pieces of square tube to cut and all the plate to cut. 

Got all my 1/8" wall tube cut and mocked up. to reinforce the cut I made to the subframe. 
 

planning on plating over it all after it is welded up, for a finished look. 
 

also clearanced for the banjo bolt for the turbo coolant line. 
 

I saw the pictures and went"hey, thats how i did it!" Then i read i was the inspiration. 

Glad i could help. There's probably stronger and lighter ways of doing it, but good enough is good enough.