Red with white stripe connects with only one wire and goes to under side of the bcm.
the purple meets up with 3 other wires
One goes to this (ignition switch)
Second purple wire goes to this connector which the goes to the green thing (maybe lock cylinder actuator solenoid?)
thrid purple wire connector goes to bottom of the bcm.
black with white stripe goes to: ? For now must have come unattached at some point.
green goes to three other solid green wires.
one to this (OBD2) :
one to this (plugs into back of guages)
and one to the top connector on the bcm
There are a group of ( edit) 5 of what I think are grounds. I tried to lable in the picture below, where they go, on the blue three two of the ground wires go there
The following is where the two grounds (labeled above by a blue 3) go:
BCM pin outs. Still don't know which connector is which letter
Is that thing with the screw terminals an aftermarket alarm or immobilizer? Pretty sure nothing OE would use that connector.
There is a positive battery clamp that goes to 3 different spots on the red connector on the right side of the bcm
There were 3 wires coming off the info button all three were unconnected so I guessed on these will update if they change
black with white stripe to same wire on the key reader
gray to the gray wire on the gray wire on the guage plug
green with white stripe to same wire on guage plug
Ignition switch
Red with white stripe goes to underside of bcm
Gray goes no where is just cut off
purple (after color change in connector) goes to the green connector solenoid mentioned above
Solid white (red arrow below) and white with black stripe (Blue arrow below)go to top connector on bcm
The
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
I think it was used just to ground to the battery to try to test out the wiring off the car?
I put power to it and am getting the security lock light to come up, but I thought I should have a odometer reading show up as well.
It's at least progress.
There are 3 stripped wires that go no where on the guage connector, green with white stripe, black with white stripe and gray.
There is one wire to nowhere from the key sensor ring the black with the white stripe.
and one gray wire from the underside of the bcm that goes nowhere
Next step. Found some better wiring diagrams. Also found some labels on the bcm itself. I realize this is probably newbie stuff. But I have searched a lot and have not found this kind of info.
So here are the labels on the bcm, the underside had no lable:
Here are the latest wire diagrams that I think are the best:
Had success on the security lock
here is what I did :
now I need to get the other instrument cluster info to show up. Like the odometer etc.
Got it was missing a ground ipc #15
There are two posts on the fuse box. Is one for positive and one negative?
Also is the connector on the left in this picture for the accelerator pedal? I know the one on the right is as I pulled that connector off the accelerator pedal that I have.
Just found this thread!
It's awesome! Keep up the good work!
Ill jump in if I know anything!
Next connections are the serial data wires. Tan and tan with black stripe. They go from the ecu connector to the bcm j2 connector. I hope this will let the bcm tell the ecu to turn on the starter.
Next step is to figure out the clutch safety switch and where it gets wired to. I think this is it.
After that I need to figure out where the accelator pedal wires in then I think I will be able to see if I can get it to crank.
A quick question about your clutch pedal setup...
Can you take the clutch master cylinder off the pedal assembly, turn it 180 degrees and bolt it back on to the pedal assembly?
With the magic of MS Paint I bring you:
In reply to Noddaz :
I think so. Some one had pm'd me a similar idea. I might try that.
Right now I am just needing a win on this project so I am going to just try to get the engine to run as my first goal and then figure everything else out after that.
I had an old Saab 9-3 gas tank in the barn. I pulled the fuel pump out of it and am planning to do a temporary fuel system out of a bucket?
Next steps:
I am working on the clutch safety switch now. Does anyone know if that can be turned off in HP tuners? I would rather have one less thing to worry about keeping it from starting. The ecu is for a 2008 solstice (I think)
I thought I had everything wired up correctly, tried to plug in HP tuners. Just keep getting an error message.
"Detect protocol failed"
I am guessing I have my tan and tan with black stripe data GMLAN wires messed up somewhere.
I found someone building a df goblin with the cobalt SS lnf (their notes copied and pasted below) for the GMLAN can you skip sensor's along the way as long as the start and finish are correct?
Also is there a way to look up a vin off of a ecu to see if the donor ecu thinks it is a manual or auto? I have an ecu but I don't know what the vin of the vehicle it came from is.
After some help from a nice guy (Tim) on a solstice Facebook group I think I should finally have my GMlan Data wires correctly wired up. I am just missing a 120ohm resistor in the wiring at the obd2 connector.
I still have no connection from the ecm to the obd2 plug so hp tuners can read it.
I am trying to reduce it down to the simplest form to figure it out.
I have the data wires hooked up (minus one resistor for now.
I have 12v to the ecu, bcm, and odb2 connector.
I have the bcm, and the obd2 grounded.
My next steps are to try to see how the ecu should be grounded and wire in the 120ohm resistor.
Update after not knowing what to try next on the lnf. I got a whole cobalt ss at acution, I thought having the bcm, key, ecu, wiring harnes, gas pedal all from the same car would help.
I stripped the engine and the entire wiring harness out of the car.
I got the wiring harness all hooked back up and no security light on the cluster so that is good.
Turn the key, nothing happens. I plug in hp tuners and get the familiar message of "Decect protocol failed " urghhh I guess maybe this Mercedes doesn't want an ecotec.
I think my next thing to try is to make a bench harness and make sure the ecu is good. It is emitting a whining noise when I hook up the battery.
Damn, I bet its something offensively simple.
I have a spare 24v m104 if you want to change directions. I think you'll figure it out though.
In reply to yupididit :
Thanks.
I found some posts about people setting up lsj engines on DF Goblins, seems to be some good information. May help me track down the issue.
I used this schematic below to realize there was still a lot on the data stream that I didn't have plugged in. So I went to the stripped parts pile and got it all plugged in.
After that I still couldn't get anything to come up on HP tuners, then I accidentally moved the power steering module and the fuel pump kicked on. Thought that was odd, long story short I didn't have the ecu grounded. I grounded the ecu and ended up with this:
I was super excited after fighting with it for so long.
