Bad power valve in the carb? That will do it. I doubt internal issues, though pig rich isn't exactly good for ring/bore life (washes the oil out of the cylinders).
Bad power valve in the carb? That will do it. I doubt internal issues, though pig rich isn't exactly good for ring/bore life (washes the oil out of the cylinders).
In reply to BrokenYugo:
Power valve appeared good when I pulled the carb apart to helicoil it, but I replaced it with a brand-new one anyway. Both are/were 6.5.
I'm not very well versed on Holley carbs but if the float levels are good, air bleeds aren't clogged, and the choke is working right (you could try adjusting it all the way open for now) IDK what else it could be unless something is loose or incorrectly assembled. How much manifold vacuum do you have at idle?
I've not checked vacuum since I first set it up, and I don't recall what it measured.
However, I did just order this factory refurb Holley 650 DP with vacuum secondaries for $290, so I guess I'll know soon enough whether it's the carb or not.
In reply to Pete Gossett:
Good Buy, I kinda wish I had Known ,Bill Tiechnor( I never spell it right) has run that Dept. For years and he may still, He is also now doing the Holley Tech News(news letter) Each Month, Once upon a Time In a Land Far Away He was the Rep. and made the rounds in his VW Bus.
The new carb arrived this afternoon.
I was pleased to find neither the float height nor mixture needed any adjustment. The car fired right up, and after burning the crud out from the previous problems, it settled into a steady 1k rpm idle.
The only possible concern is that my HF vacuum gauge is reading very low at idle, although it goes up around 50 into the green zone when I rev it a bit.
I was going to take it for a test drive, but when I hopped in the car the brake pedal went to the floor... The line out of the MC looks like it ruptured at the first bend. I'll pick up a short piece of line and a coupler to splice it in tomorrow night.
That's spectacular. I wonder if we'll ever know what was wrong with the original carb. What does the Stop and Read tag say?
In reply to mazdeuce:
It says to call their tech support instead of taking/sending it back to the vendor.
I definitely owe everyone who told me to just buy a good carb a beverage of their choice should we ever meet in the non-ether. While I hate spending the money, it would have meant 2 or 3 months saved.
Peety Boy, I Want the O&F Carb If you wish to Recoup Some Dinero. But Yea for you.
So if you want, Just Hang on till the Fiero Is Paid for, and I'll Get It.Sadly Or Happily,It's looking like I will Have it Paid for in December, Or Christmas, Leaving Plenty of time to Make it run for the Challenge.
Like those Happy People say "Hope Springs Eternal"
PG, with all that you've been thru to date, when this badboy meets the pavement without any more boogers you can truly say 'I are a C4 eggspert!'
In reply to 759NRNG:
Oh I have no fallacies of it never having problems - it's a 32 year old GM that had questionable wiring when new!
In reply to GTXVette:
I'll let you discuss that with Jim. It's his and I'm not sure if he has plans for it.
In reply to Pete Gossett: OK Then!
That's right he has an eddy, could prob. use a good carb. Ha! Was Just thinking..... it's a dbl. pump, but If I need something that Small I might could just block off 2 bbls. on the one on the Vette motor. Not really I got some 2bbls. If i need to hop one up.
Pete...give it to him. If you can't make it work, I know I cant.
Only condition is he has to pick it up at challenge
So I learned tonight the brake lines on the Vette are 6mm not 1/4"...I also learned that Advance doesn't carry any metric brake lines or compression fittings. Hopefully Napa or one of the other chains has some in stock when I call around in the morning.
In reply to GTXVette:
If I can't find it local I may have to take you up on that if I can't find one. Thanks!
6mm, weird. I don't see why you couldn't use 1/4" lines of the same thread and flare type. FedHill seems to agree.
In reply to BrokenYugo:
I need to splice it into the existing line, and I don't think a 1/4" compression fitting will hold on 6mm line, will it?
Edit: Let me explain/clarify a bit. This is the rear brake line coming off the MC, and it appears to have sprung a pinhole leak at the first bend 1" out of the MC. The line is one continuous run back to the LR wheel well, where it T's to each wheel. So I was hoping to splice in another piece about 6"-12" in length.
I'll replace the whole line with 1/4" if that's what I need to do, but I know 1/4" line won't fit into the 1x12(6mm ID) nut on the end...I tried that. I also don't have the tools to do a bubble(?) flare like it needs on the end that goes into the MC. I'm also guessing replacing the entire piece would require 8'-10' of tubing, though I'm guessing I could find that locally in 1/4".
DO NOT use a compression fitting on brakes, only a bubble or double flare union. I don't think 6mm would seal in a 1/4 fitting anyways. Looks like at least Autozone carries 6mm stuff, including preflared sections, it's Poly Armour brand so I'd expect it to be available at most parts stores. EDIT: Looks like 12x1.0 nuts for 1/4 line are super rare, so it's probably better to just stick with 6mm stuff. Also, bubble flares are easier to make than doubles, so the cheap kits work ok, the flare wrenches are where you shouldn't cheap out.
http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-line?filters=4294932643
In reply to BrokenYugo:
Hmm... I'm guessing I probably won't find ~10' of 6mm brake line locally, so how bad of an idea would it be to drill out the nuts from 6mm to 1/4" and run new 1/4" front to rear? Would the bubble flares in 1/4" line even seat/seal in the 6mm MC and caliper?
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