Project Boxster: Maroon92's Guards Red '97

Car looks great man, I'm glad I'm not the only one with the whole clubsport-style build going on. Now I just need to take the diligence to document mine online, haha. Have you looked into the rollbar that Safety Devices makes? Aside from the goofy BK extension for the factory bar it's the only bolt in option. It can also be ordered with mounting points for the softtop. I think it adds about 40mm in height compared to the factory bar so it slightly bulges the main bow of the top. You could probably gut or swiss-cheese the factory top frame. I know the 987 spyder emergency top is 2 pieces, are you planning on running any sort of speedster humps over the engine cover or just leaving it open?

I had not previously seen the Safety Devices unit. Shipping from the UK has got to be KILLER expensive, though, right?

Their rear section is about what I had in mind. Ideally, I'd like to tie into the rear struts as well, but that's not mandatory.

When this top project comes about, I would probably do something similar to the two piece Spyder top. I'll have a rear section that will snap fasten around the roll bar to keep the weather out at the back. We'll see how it works out.

Side note, has anyone heard of "Ultra Racing" before? They make a full range of chassis stiffening braces for the car, and there is one in particular that I'm interested in. Didn't know if anyone had any endorsements (or otherwise) about the quality of their products.

For simple maintenance to clutch work or engine accessory replacement, what does a.Boxster shadetree mexhanic's garage look like? Does it require a smattering of special tools? A lift? I was infected earlier this year, you see. I was thrown the keys to a Cayman S, and now I Get It.

Well, I haven't done much of it myself thus far, but the car is relatively simple.

If you were going to do a clutch, you'd probably want a lift. I've heard it can be done without a lift, but I've also heard you'll want to kill yourself afterward (or during).

Porsches, in my experience, are relatively simple to work on. I probably wouldn't want to tear the engine apart in my garage, but all brake and suspension work, or maintenance should be achievable in a simple single stall home garage.

The new amp has arrived. It weighs 0.8 pounds.

Still waiting on speakers and head unit removal tools arrive tomorrow. Looks like I have a nice little weekend project.

Banana included for scale.

If we can't say something nice about our individual opinions of the amp, is it better to say nothing at all?

When I was pricing the Safety Devices unit last year I think it ended up being just over 1k shipped to my place near Detroit. I haven't looked lately though. Honestly about 80% of the work that needs to be on a modern Porsche can be done in a garage with simple hand tools and a few German specific tools such as Torx bits and triple squares. I worked as a tech at P-car dealer for about 2 years and while a hoist definitely makes things easier, clutch jobs are totally doable in a shade-tree garage environment. Boxster have the advantage in that you can just slide the trans out the back of the car.I've had the trans out of my car 3 times, once for an initial inspection, then clutch, then RMS/IMS. R&R only takes me about 3.5 hours with minimal air tool usage, the average Joe can easily do a clutch job in a day.

pres589 wrote: If we can't say something nice about our individual opinions of the amp, is it better to say nothing at all?

I'm not an audiophile, I am just looking for the lightest possible way to still get sound.

It's a two-channel motorcycle amp for 30 dollars. I'm going to run an RCA to AUX cable and have just an iPod or cell phone running the music/podcasts/NPR.

It'll be hidden out of sight, and will be running a pair of 4" Fosgate speakers (30 dollars on clearance from Amazon) in the dash. I'll be removing the two door speakers.

After I remove the stock amp, head unit, wiring and speakers, I should drop 15 pounds or so from the car, and gain the ability to have an aux input.

Well, now I know what's replacing the motorcycle down the line.

Taking it out for the first autocross of the season tomorrow.

I'll also be teaching a friend how to drive stick. Any tips?

Maroon92 wrote: . I'll also be teaching a friend how to drive stick. Any tips?

Learn on someone else's car?

I think the latest GRM had some tips on that in the back (or it was in the email newsletter). Might be worth a look. There's also some good videos on YouTube that might help. Good luck!

I took the little red beastie out for an autocross last weekend, and had a ton of fun.

I came second in class (out of three) in C-Stock. I was competing against an RX-8 that was much faster, but hit a TON of cones, and a Subie BRZ that was slower than me, but managed to slip one run in that was a tenth quicker.

I was running on 380 treadwear rated Sumitomos (they came on the car), so there is a TON of speed to be found in this car. I was 46th out of 56 on PAX. (womp womp...)

Oh, and the friend who I taught how to drive stick? He smoothly took off from a standstill on his very first try. (granted, he stalled it about 40 times on Saturday, but he's making progress.)

Autocross pictures and some GoPro footage will follow.

In reply to Maroon92:

Awesome! Congrats on the finish and the stick-lernin'!

Looking forward to the GoPro footage.

I really hate working with GoPros. Over two days I had about 7 runs, and only one of them was actually captured on video. I only had the Gen1 GoPro handy for last weekend, so the quality is very poor.

Video

This week, I've been assembling the "custom audio" project, and finally finished it tonight.

Before

After

Quick question... What is the minimum CCA battery I can get away with to still reliably start a 2.5 liter 6 cylinder?

Amazon has the new Deltran batteries LiFEPo4 lightweights on sale right now. 80 bucks for 120 cca, and 130 dollars for 240 cca.

Should I pony for the 240? Do I need more than that? It would be for summer use only, so the "cold" is relative.

I sell 375 CCA lawn mower batteries for $50 that are nearly the same weight...

Javelin wrote: I sell 375 CCA lawn mower batteries for $50 that are nearly the same weight...

A lawnmower battery that is 14 ounces? I don't think so...

Just closed the deal to get a lightly used Agency Power Short Shifter for the Boxster (a 475 dollar total value) for 200 bones. Thrifty shifter!

I'm picking it up on my way to Laguna Seca for the TUSCC race this weekend!

The Boxster looks great!

Thanks. To be fair, it looks much better in pictures than it does in person. That paint needs work...

Love the car, hate the yellow vinyl.

As someone who has been planning on picking up a cheap boxster for a while now, this has done nothing to dissuade me.

In reply to Maroon92:

Ultra Racing is fine. They're just braces/sway bars ergo: not rocket surgery.

They're cheap and serve their purpose. They just don't have the same "ahhhh!" Factor of say... Cusco or Beatrush.

I'll be following this now. Boxsters are very much on my list at the moment and the only thing worrying me is maintenance costs. So far, this thread is reinforcing my Boxster leanings. Thanks?

Vigo wrote: Love the car, hate the yellow vinyl.

I'll be honest, I thought I would hate it, too. Once it was on, though, I kinda fell for it.

It was 12 dollars for a whole boatload of material, so I won't feel bad about tearing it off when I get tired of it.

The headlights were almost that yellow when I bought the car, as the original plastic had oxidized to absolutely hideous levels. If you don't cover it with something, it'll be just as bad in a matter of just a few months.

Why hasn't someone made glass headlamps for this car yet? They can do it for MKIV veedubs, why not my P-car?

thatsnowinnebago wrote: I'll be following this now. Boxsters are very much on my list at the moment and the only thing worrying me is maintenance costs. So far, this thread is reinforcing my Boxster leanings. Thanks?

Yeah, the maintenance costs are pretty high, but if you buy the right one, the previous owner has already done all of that for you, and you've got at least 45,000 miles to start saving for a new whatever breaks next.