Project D2D, a challenging challenge bound Ford Ranger.

2 steps forward, 3 steps back....

Installed the new acquired cap/rotor wires.

Then I made the sloppy/roadkill wire separators....

I made 2(!) filler plates via a newly acquired 3 5/8" hole saw.... I drilled one out and tried to transfer that pattern... which ended in utter failure. Oh well. That faux pa lead to taking the dash back out to have access to the drilled holes I made based on the previous pattern. That was just a blessing in disguise as I need to dump the original wiring for the painless kit...

I tired now because it's 85f and no airflow. Maybe more tomorrow.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Weekly update:

Ford, you make me question your sanity. Who in their right mind runs the speaker outputs for the door speakers back out the firewall, to terminate them into a connector at the core support, then run those two wires back in the inner fenders into the door? Oy vey. 

Either way on with the E36 M3show!

I pulled the dash yet again. It's not a hard deal either. Few bolts here, few bolts over there, drop the column for the hidden screw, and it's out. I wanted to simplify and add that magical lightness everyone talks about frequently. In doing so, the stock wiring was going into recycle bin. 

I have no idea what was lost, but it's definitely substantial.

Given I had the dash out, I went ahead and just removed everything else too. Firewall insulation, gone. Remaining cab wiring, gone. Parking brake mechanism, gone. Rear speakers and brackets, gone. The only thing left is the thin stick on nvh pads on the floor. Maybe I can start putting some new crap in soon.

Then the problems that need solutions hit. Fixed the large connector hole with a plate cleco'd in. I plan to put a large milspec connector there for the front wiring, so it will stay like that until I get to that point.

Then a bigger problem developed... I took the clutch master out. And the firewall is cracked because the master fatigues the surrounding metal, even though it's doubled in thickness. Have to do some prep, the master leaked, very slightly, and started to corrode the metal before I can zap it back together.

I also worked on the manual brake conversion plate. I hope to have a metal pattern soon to send off to a friend who can make me a billet version.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Weekly update...

I haven't had the physical urge to go work on it, but I did buy much needed things.

I went ahead, since I'm putting in a new fuse block, to "upgrade" the wiring quite a bit with new connectors. It covers almost 90% of what I need. Just have to figure out which wire where from the evtm. Had to buy a starter as I don't have one.

Now, I need to place orders for the proper intermediate connectors and those crimping tools. Good thing the place I can buy "worry free" deutsch or mil spec connectors is having a 23% off sale...

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Bogged down in details now.... 

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

The house was quiet, down one kiddo and one adult, so I turned on some Road Trip Radio on SiriusXM and started to finish tracing out needed circuits and trying to understand Ford "logic" and blend with the Painless (not really) instructions.

Labeling out the headlight switch was not too bad, with only one wire colored different from the factory manual.

Then it became the 3 connectors for the multifunction switch.... 

After that, I hate plain white wire.

Even the editors get stuff wrong...

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Nothing to report except spending money on electrical connectors, pins, butt connectors, and a crimping tool to the tune of $600.... That doesn't include the $370 for the proper pin crimping tool, or the heat shrink I'll need, or the other connectors needed... Maybe on the next order.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

It's an expensive pill to swallow, but you know it'll be done right.

Well.... E36 M3.

I bought a new bumper from rockauto... same damn thing I bought in New Mexico 2 yrs ago. Grrrr.

Oh well. Added to the stockpile.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

I dun berkeleyed up.

Some ordered parts came in from Mouser, as pictured below:

Its just too bad I ordered a male and female receptacle and not the mating twistlock piece. Oh well. Quick call to Mouser led to another order of the other half of this connector puzzle.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

More fairy dust and poof, more items arrive.

Yes, yes that's a 1000 count of close clearance zipties. 100 of panel hole zipties. Plenty of various uninsulated butt connectors and eyelets. Lots of deutsch pins and sockets. Even bought a real(ly expensive) wire crimper.

Now to just get the rest....

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Ups just showed up with another box from Mouser out of Texas with the other side of the connectors I needed....

Somehow even got a "free" lock washer included.

Now, I'm just some dykem, an airsaw, and some time to get it mounted up properly. Then there is just more parts to buy like the crimp tools for the pins and sockets, boots, the energy to finish this monstrosity....

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

PS- I see why motorsports uses this style, it's the cats ass. Sure beats 99% of the OEM intermediate connectors out there, imo.

Update for today...

After some motivation from Saturday's track outing, I put some work in on D2D.

First up is putting in the bulkhead connector I have went round and round on getting all the pieces. Took a quick dykem bath and scribed out the spot for it. I had to take into account that the rivet holes are angled up 8 degrees left to right. I then took those 8 degrees and angled them down to the right to make a roughly horizontal line to make the connector level. Quick measure across to the edges and it was good enough for me, it's like a 1/32" off.

I then took a much smaller 1 3/8" hole saw to make a bigger hole. Of course, the drill bit that centers the saw, decided to rapidly shrink and I was left with just the saw making what I hoped was a hole where I wanted it placed. Luckily, it did. I then proceeded to use a couple of half moon and one rat tail file to make the hole appropriately sized for the connector to pass through without excessive force.

And then it was at this point, I realized I put the connector in backwards. Oh well easy fix.

This is how I think the wiring harness will go. I didn't put in a squiggly line for the connector going to the back for the rear lights, fuel pump, and maybe a gauge, or the 4 pin connector needed for the wiper motor. (Updated rendition.)

Then y'all remember that $20 blaupunkt radio from Walmart 4 yrs ago? Yea, I have one and it was bought with the purpose of going into this project.

It even fits without modifying the original Ford dash.

And with that, that's all for now.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

More update for today. Yay, right?

All I can say is I shoulda wore long sleeves. Sparks are hot and hurt when wicked spinning death wheel is being used. Sadly, I couldn't use an angle to avoid them. Oh well.

I went ahead and started to pretty up the passenger side inner fender with the flap wheel. It's about 90% complete from where I want it. I just need more height on the vehicle so I can work from the engine bay side.

Then I started on the dreaded drivers side inner fender because everything is in the way. Master cylinder got wired out of the way, connector got removed, and hood cable placed out of the way, I was able to commence cutting. Quickly I realized this was going to suck. Again, not any good angles to avoid being showered with sparks.  Everything got largely cut out though to about 75% completion after using 4 different and new cutoff wheels.

Thats all for today since I have no more charged m18 batteries....

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Minor update today.

I ordered and received 50 each of various stepdown electrical crimp connectors. My plan is to use them to combine wires as needed for grounds mostly.

I even started to work on the placement of the fuse block. Made a quick cardboard template using the original parking brake holes. Went to place the mounting plate and think it's going to be  make a new one and weld it in with some gussets.

That's all for today...

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Step down crimp connectors, adding that one to the repertoire. 

In reply to RacetruckRon :

Delcity was the cheapest I could find, under $0,50/each.

An update for today because I'm at a crossroads of sorts.

I finally was able to dig out the box from pods storage that contained all the various clearance priced AN fittings from Holley I purchased a few years ago. The box itself looks like a hammered dog poo and quite frankly, I don't see how it's still in one piece. But anyway, I spied a big honking fitting, a 3/4npt to -12 fitting. The 15gal fuel cell, I placed on a shelf after fixing the fill opening, takes a 3/4npt fitting. This fixes the main problem I had with my last setup, since this was well before the internet took over from paper catalogs, being I had to adapt from the 3/4 to 1/2npt to -10. It was just ugly.

So I guess the question is junk the stock tank with my now $200 brand new pump and hanger plus the $150 filler neck for the cell and buying yet another different fuel pump, filters, and make new lines?

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Keep the stock tank with the new pump. Less work is less work. You can replace it later if need be.

In reply to AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) :

I would if the stock tank was baffled or if I could fill it with foam cheaply.

Gonna need to follow this one, after I go back and read the whole thread. 

GRM Minitruck club?

Still slowly plodding away.... Drag Week and a seriously screwed up out of town work schedule is hampering progress. 2 days of calling in didn't help either.

Either way, still not happy with the radiator setup even though I said I was going to use it. I put some tape down and started to measure.

Looks like I can make a a 28" wide by ~17-18" tall core fit with some careful cutting to the outer vertical reinforcement on each side. This also avoids the rad support mounting bolts, which are the circular holes.

Only reason I'm looking at doing this is radiators aren't cheap but hoses are. Looking to the next iteration.  Which may happen before I even finish this version. LOL.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!!

Long time no update.... Depression and unemployment combined are a killer combo.

$70 radiator and some thinking ideas.... Just need to actually mock some scrap up to probably pay the big bucks to Delta PAG for a custom deal.

Back to the same old quandary, same path or stupid power..... Given Haltech has released the Rebel LS and it's much better than Holley imo at the same price point.... then I have a $140 turbo log from Forced Performance out of Texas... A few "core" Turbo400's to use.... I have too much E36 M3.

Until next time, minitrucks rule!

Edit- inspirational photo spawning the idea.