In reply to paddygarcia :
Dirty emulsion tubes can cause richness as well. Some of the passages are for air and partially atomized fuel. Dirty air corrector jet in particular.
In reply to paddygarcia :
Dirty emulsion tubes can cause richness as well. Some of the passages are for air and partially atomized fuel. Dirty air corrector jet in particular.
Thanks for that. The fuel level was high: 26mm vs 29mm advised so I'll adjust that and carefully clean the emulsion tubes and jets.
paddygarcia said:Picked up another EPAS unit, this time with wiring harness and the upper column + shaft. We think this can be modified to replace the Volvo piece rather than cut the original. Note the tilt lever - if you didn't mind cutting the dash you could probably get tilt without much trouble.
What did the power steer unit come out of ?
And did you figure out how to power and control it ?
I hope to find one with tilt and telescopic adjustable steering shaft
Thanks for the info
Lots of info around but start here: https://epowersteering.com/
(I have no affiliation with the site but it's very useful)
OK, I take it back. I hate the wiring.
To their credit, the various semi-trained macaques (or maybe lemurs) who did Stuff didn't cut the original harness. However, it looks like stage 1 was to wire new stuff into a switched power fuse block direct off the ignition switch. OK - adds another type of fuse but workmanlike.
Stage 2 was to add relays to most of the circuits. So now there is a fuse block with 4 new circuits with 20A or 30A fuses, and 3 relays with a bundle of snakes from the battery, each with - ta da! - 20A or 30A fuses. Oh, and 2 are blade fuses and one is a glass cartridge, so there are 3 kinds of fuses in the car. And a 3-outlet accessory panel with no fuses whatsoever.
Current plan is to slim the switched power down to 1 fused circuit since it's only carrying a reverse lamp and the relays. Make the fuse block unswitched and use those circuits to power the relays. Add an inline fuse for the accessory plugs. And of course, rework the expectedly scary aftermarket radio wiring.
This week all the scary wiring went away. Here we see unfused 10ga wire running through a small, unprotected hole in the firewall, not quite ready to weld but the insulation was mostly cut through. Totally better choice than the larger hole 3" away, with a grommit, right?
Removing the battery we see one of everyone's favorite fixing tools: roof flashing and silicone caulk covering some organic weight-reducing speed holes.
It was time to evaluate the floor rust anyway, so the glued-down carpet came up with a small fight. You can tell this is a rally car, there was about 1/2 pound of fine dirt on the floor and probably 3lbs trapped in the carpet and backing. All in all the rust situation seems reasonable: both floor pans and the bottom of the cowl side panel on the passenger side. Rockers and A pillars look solid.
I also dug into the carbs: pulled and spritz-cleaned the jets and checked that all bores match: main 120, emulsion F11, Air 200. idle F9 55.
New top cover gaskets, floats adjusted to 15mm level and 22.5 drop. Baselined the mixture and air bypass screws to remove any prior twiddling. Mixture screws were pretty consistent @ 2.25 turns out, but only 3 air bypass screws were turned in, cylinder 4 was 2 turns open. That and the very loose fit of carbs to rubber isolators might have had something to do with how it was running...
Took a break from the electricals and sheet metal and started tuning carbs. The floats needed some adjustment to get the right level - now I know to make sure the bracket isn't bent so that both floats are the same height. Also learned about Thackery springs, the carbs weren't actually loose.
A funny thing about that one bore in which the air bypass screw was open - that idle circuit appears to have no effect. DIal mixture up or down, no change in lumpy idle. Checked idle and main jet assemblies, all clean. Swapped carbs front to back, problem moved with the carb, so it's not in the ignition, cylinder, intake gasket, or isolator/o-rings. Swapped main jet assemblies side to side, no change. Swapped idle jets side-side, no change. Checked idle mixture screws, same side to side although the needle in the bad bore had a lot of crap on it. Inspected transition circuit holes, same exposure side-side. Shot some cleaner down the idle fuel path and got plenty out of the holes for the air bypass, transition circuit inspection port, and mixture screw area.
The junk on the idle mixture screw is suspect - I'm thinking it's time to take the carb off and make sure the idle circuit is actually open to the bore and that the throttle plates aren't too weird.
Am I missing something?
*Edit* of course I was. I baselined every screw except the idle speed. When the plates are where they should be everything works...
After thinking and sketching a bunch I started on the wiring. In addition to the multiple fused circuit paths, the switched power circuit was created by running more power into and then through the factory ignition switch, which is never a great idea. That's gone now, with just an 18ga switched lead that'll turn on a new switched power circuit.
Relays and new fuse block will end up above the passenger footwell on the back of the battery box or the side of the scuttle. This allows for substantial clean up under both hood and dash. Also routed and bundled the wiring for tach and sensors for water temperature and oil pressure. The 4-1 header runs pretty close to the oil gallery but hopefully the 45° fitting keeps the oil pressure sensor from cooking.
Also started fitting the 240 trans tunnel, which obviously isn't a drop-in. This car had an overdrive trans added that seems to have required some tunnel massaging, so there's some remedial work to be done.
Lots of fiddling with the 240 hump today, and once it settled on the original tunnel it was time to open some space for the remote-shift top cover. Took more time to get the sheet metal nibbler to work than it took to zip through the metal.
In reply to paddygarcia :
I used to have a nibbler that broke every time. It wasn't a cheapie either.
After 10 weeks and one failed attempt to transfer the title by mail, today we have an actual title and plates!
Good thing, I don't think the PO would go for backsies without stuff like carpet and sheet metal. New floor pans arrived today, too. That's an omen.
Got the cover off the diff and drained the trans and overdrive for fluid changes. As expected it's an open 4.10 diff, with 8 68 dated gears so probably original to the car. Gears in the rear and trans look very nice. It was late, but once the trans was drained it seemed like a good time to see if I could swap the top cover without dropping the gearbox.
Not only could, but did, and it even made it easy to refill the trans.
The tunnel will need some trimming (with an eye towards not retaining water once the new hump goes on), but that whole measure-a-hundred-times-cut-once thing worked out pretty well.
Slow progress, but moving. When swapping top covers I noticed that one of the detent springs was missing. It shifted ok without, but when so far in why cut a corner? Didn't really lose any time as fitting the 240 trans cover (part number 1315181 at your local dealer) took a long time - my n00b sheet metal skillz had to figure out how to deal with the big air-hammered clearance job done sometime in the past. I think this would be a pretty easy job on an unmodified car.
Sharp eyes will spot an odd hole on the side of the tunnel, just ahead of the new opening. I'd swear it's a bullet hole, but it's larger than a .45 round and there's no exit damage on any other panel. Maybe the prior trans took a hit. Drawing a line from it shows that it would have come through the door or scuttle but no damage there. I'd love to know the story.
Finally, more squirrels.
"Hey Nutso, these speakers need some room. Think cutting through the rear firewall right next to that big-ass second fuel tank in the trunk is a problem?"
"Naaahhhhh!" Bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.
More to patch...
Filled one hole, cut another...
For those interested in Amazons, this car was advertised in around 2013 in Arizona (not by the person I bought from or the person they bought from) as "a solid, rust-free" car. Hmmm. Definitely not 7 years of new corrosion here.
The pix on BaT showed enough that there were no surprises, but IMO assume any 122 is rusting out unless proven otherwise.
Tony Barrett pointed out that this car had the wrong switchgear (1800, I think) and the switches weren't in good shape, so I went to tradera.com which is Sweden's ebay and picked up replacements which came today.
Figured I might as well change out to a Swedish heater control label to match since that was a whopping $6 from VP. Instruments are still in MPH/English. Maybe that'll change, too, who knows.
V-tork just kicked in, yo.
Sing along! https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=FpLJbPmSlAA
Out with the old battery box, in with the old-but-not-rusted box.
Lots of time here and there on either small jobs (replacing aftermarket cobbled choke setup with stock) or large (fettling sheet metal for floors, so not much to photograph but I did make A Thing.
The new gauge panel in the radio spot is great when you have a co-driver, but too far away for a solo driver to notice a problem. The dash gauge and lights won't work anymore (actually didn't work anyway) as the VDO water temp sensor replaced the factory bulb and I didn't use the fancy VDO oil pressure sender with both switch and transducer.
In their epic V12 Ferrari 308 thread, @mke pointed out that almost all electrical gauges are just voltmeters, which prompted the thought that a simple voltage comparator could light the idiot light(s) if I knew what voltage corresponded to which gauge reading. A little work with a voltmeter and some low-value resistors (sensors are something like 10-250 ohm) sussed reference voltages: the oil pressure gauge showed 10psi at 2.05V and the water temp gauge showed 230F at 1.69V. These gauges run in opposite directions: oil pressure pegs high at high voltage, water temp pegs low at high voltage. That's good since it makes the logic the same for both: the higher the voltage the safer the condition. Thus, if sensor voltage < reference voltage then either oil pressure is going too low or water temp is going too high, so light the warning lamp.
It turns out that TI's LM393 dual comparator does this job nicely, and with 2 channels we can monitor 2 different signals with one chip. Put the reference voltage on the + input and the signal you're testing on the - input, and if the signal is less than the reference the output turns on. You can use it to light an LED directly or to drive a relay to switch something else.
The potentiometers on pins 3 and 5 allow you to set the reference voltage for each channel, value isn't terribly important - I used 2K since I had them. Similar with the pull-up resistors on the outputs - 10K since I had them and they worked. Each channel is independent but the outputs sum together with diodes to light a single LED. The LM393 will handle input voltage between 2-36VDC, so with a 12V LED there's no need for special power supply.
Seems to work right so far, but I'll test it when the car is running again before potting it all up in some goo. The lamp holders are aircraft surplus off ebag and were intended for neon lamps so needed a little gutting before installing the LEDs but definitely look the part. One is for the parking brake since the original was missing, one will be the new idiot light and take the place of the old fuel gauge selector switch that was drilled next to the heater control.
Slow progress on the floors. 
The warning light controller is now safely ensconced in some lovely Dow 748 non-corrosive RTV. The data sheet wasn't lying when it said thickness over a few mm may take 1-2 weeks to cure, at 10 days in it's still soft on the bottom where the mold kept away the humidity needed to cure the silicone. Anyway, ready to be wrapped and stashed under the dash when the gauge panel goes in.
Things are coming together...
2 coats of rust bullet, seam sealer, one of topcoat, undercoating on the underside, a few sheets of damplifier pro to replace the dear-departed asphalt sheeting and it's time to start putting stuff back together!
Oh, and seeing as we can't wrench on this one together, my Dad decided he'd get back into the brand and bought an S60 last week. Very, very nice car. I can't help but think how an Ecoboost would fit in the 122...
But that's for much later. Time to start rewiring.
Roughed in the wiring center and installed the 123 programmable distributor. Much tuning left to do but I went for a drive.
Nice looking car.
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