S-10 Blazer V8

Hey y'all. Long time listener, first time caller.

Found this 1985 S10 Blazer that needed a home. I couldn't resist. It's not running yet but the specs are allegedly:

-early 70s 350
-th350 w/ shift kit
-stock rear end
-70k original miles on body, 8k on swap
-mint interior

It came with a spare carb (probably bad) and a set of 350 vortec heads. The tires are trashed, so that'll have to go soon.

Current plan is to get it running. Second step is lower and widen to meet $2017 challenge rules! It measures 63" to the roofline with 57.5" track width. Not a lot of time til October so I'm hoping that springs and shorter, wider wheels get me there.

If that's the original axle it's the old 7.5 10 bolt from before they got upgraded to a 7.625 ring gear, they're supposedly significantly weaker. If you're looking for width you might want to look into an axle out of a later ZR2 package S10/Blazer, the ZR2 had the widest axle, (something like 5 inches over a regular 2WD) also the most likely place to find a 8.5 10 bolt.

Look up the drivabeater s10 thread. Truck was 4/6ish and stuck like glue.

I love some first gen s series....

Im just going to leave this here...

https://www.youtube.com/embed/A-WMA1s6Gw0

Very cool! 4wd blazers are a dime-a-dozen around here. 2wd...not so much. I'll follow with interest as one of these is on my "when one comes along for a good deal I'll scoop it up" list.

I had a 92 2 door, 2wd, 4.3, 5 speed blazer.... Didn't have any rust, nice original paint, and clean interior. Blue with blue interior. I miss it.

First update: It is alive!

Then it caught fire. Whoops.

Always know where your fire extinguishers are. You have multiple fire extinguishers, right?

No real damage incurred. Leaking fuel line pooled up on the intake, then lit off. A quick vacuum and a hose down and it's all good, we're back up and running.

Then this happened.

There is an aftermarket oil pressure gauge under the dash, and has a plastic poly tubing that goes under the distributor. That melted poured a bit of oil before I noticed (I was in the car, holding the revs up since it wouldn't idle).

Junk in the trunk. I can't open the tailgate so it'll just stay there for now.

Vortec heads? The intake bolts are at a different angle - needs a special manifold for a carb. Probably sell these.

Interior

The tire guy said he wouldn't patch these, so I bought the plug kit myself. There's plenty of tread left.

The electric fan kit never turned on, so I cut it off when the dash showed 220.

The idle sounds high but there is no tach, so my ear just may be off. It takes the curb idle screw pretty far in to stay alive. Stock setting on the needles (1.5 turns out). After a while, a single header pipe glows red (#6). I'm hoping that's just a tune and timing issue.

That reminds me, where is the timing pointer on these motors? I can't see it, would it be covered up by all the serpentine stuff? I think this motor was originally a v-belt?

Timing pointer, if you do find one confirm the TDC mark actually puts it at TDC, between mismatched parts and balancer rings slipping they're often not correct.

Vortec heads take a special intake but they're also the best flowing and designed heads Chevy ever put on a production SBC, 400+hp isn't hard with untouched heads.

If you were closer i'd offer some wider wheels to trade.

Sheehanigans wrote: First update: It is alive! Then it caught fire. Whoops.

Best update ever

In reply to Sheehanigans:

I have a set of 17x9.5 and 8.5 late c4 wheels if they'll help. Tires are shot but I'll have them ga if you need em.

On your fuel line leak: Was it caused by that clear parts store inline fuel filter? I've had those fail on me before, dumping fuel all over a hot engine. I've heard of more than a few of those things helping incinerate engine bays. I'd ditch it ASAP if the fire didn't already do that!

Oh, and I am loving this project. Carry on.

Ovid_and_Flem wrote: In reply to Sheehanigans: I have a set of 17x9.5 and 8.5 late c4 wheels if they'll help. Tires are shot but I'll have them ga if you need em.

You need a 2 inch plus spacer for those to fit on a s15 blazer.

Nothing to add except that interior is waaay nicer than the surface rust would indicate. Nice find. In for updates.

Challenger392 wrote: Im just going to leave this here... https://www.youtube.com/embed/A-WMA1s6Gw0

butch king!! great driver, better guy!!!

Sheehanigans wrote: It measures 63" to the roofline with 57.5" track width. Not a lot of time til October so I'm hoping that springs and shorter, wider wheels get me there.

I've mentioned this in most of the Blazer/S10 threads. Wider wheels will not help you. SCCA track rollover rules are based on track width defined as from centerline to centerline.

You need to use spacers or wheel offset to increase your track width.

Ovid_and_Flem wrote: I have a set of 17x9.5 and 8.5 late c4 wheels if they'll help. Tires are shot but I'll have them ga if you need em.

From the Bolus & Snopes C4?! I use your koozie all the time! What model wheel are they? Unfortunately pimpm3 is correct - corvette wheels have lots of back space. I need less back space. It takes 2" of spacers to just maintain track width.

I've got a C5 too and thought about a two-birds-one-stone set of track wheels.

Tony Sestito wrote: On your fuel line leak: Was it caused by that clear parts store inline fuel filter? I've had those fail on me before, dumping fuel all over a hot engine. I've heard of more than a few of those things helping incinerate engine bays. I'd ditch it ASAP if the fire didn't already do that! Oh, and I am loving this project. Carry on.

No, some idiot forgot to tighten the hose clamp when he swapped the carbs around. Damn fool.

ProDarwin wrote: I've mentioned this in most of the Blazer/S10 threads. *Wider wheels* will not help you. SCCA track rollover rules are based on track width defined as from centerline to centerline. You need to use spacers or wheel offset to increase your track width.

Correct, I meant to say wide AND with more negative offset, gaining me a few inches of center to center width. If I can get 3" down from springs, and 3" from wheels via offset or spacers, I'll be in business. Also looking for lower profile tires in 15". Current rubber is like 215/70/14 which makes for a 26" tire.

You can always go to the Circle Track guys in your area and get a set of 15 x 10 with 3 inch backspacing and run a 27 x 10 x 15 bias-ply slick. One coil from a set of 4.3 S10 Springs is at 3 inch drop. In your shoes I would go with a one coil Cut 2 inch spindles pull a couple of leaves in the back and go with a redneck coilover use the Circle Track takeoffs radius the wheel wells and run the ever-living berkeley out of it

Oh yeah. Add zq8 sway bars and Bilstein shocks from a second gen Blazer with a Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box. With a mono Leaf rear spring setup and the redneck coilovers you'll need to run a caltracs bar.

Check the rules for the class you will run and put the most bad ass tire they will allow on it.

Get some double adjustable shocks so you can dial them in for your spring rates.

Well there's a little knock. Sounds OK (just barely OK) at idle, but on reving up there it is... klock klock klock. Pulled the plug wires one at a time - that's a fun experience! - and found that it went away with #6 pulled. Funny thing is that cylinder was glowing red one of the first times I got this thing running. Coincidence?

Is there a similar noise that isn't rod knock that could also cause this condition? I did not notice any knock the night that the header was glowing.

That's the cleanest S-10 interior I've seen in years.

stuck valve or lifter? Pop the valve cover check the rocker arms to see if they are not broken/off the stud, if that's OK then pull the coil wire, then crank the engine, checking for free valve rocker pushrod movement. Then maybe pull the pushrods to see if one or more are bent. I would think if it were a rod bearing, that would knock on high revs even with no spark to #6.

check your valve lift, not unheard of to wipe a lobe off the cam

Hey! S10 stuff! I daily a lowered 1990 S10 that I bought with the intention of auto-x. I only have a little v6 though...

For handling purposes I'd start with 2nd gen 2wd blazer sway bars. They are a direct fit (may require welding the mounts on the axle and frame in the rear) and can be had cheap from most any scrap yard. Then toss in some proforged tall ball joints and speedway tubular upper control arms, this helps fix the crummy front geometry and gets rid of most of the bumpsteer. You'll be surprised how well it'll hold in the corners. Add a limited slip from similar vintage camaro (7.5 and 7.625 carriers are interchangeable but there are series I and series II carriers for different ratios, 3.24 and up or 3.08 and down, and mid 1989 and up changed from 26 to 28 spline axles) and leaf spring sliders in the back and it'll be very controlled and manageable when things get out of shape. Z28 steering gear bolts right in too.

You should have the power part of the equation pretty well sorted. The axle is the weak link there. I'd just beat it till it breaks then swap in a ford 8.8, they are easy to find cheap and you'll never break that.

Following this for sure