SC Locost build ideas

I am currently trying to figure out what motor to use. I would love to put in a I6 or V8. Got a micro sprint buddy who will be helping me build it saying I should put a I4 in it for a better power to weight ratio. Regardless of what goes in it, it will have a carburetor, no EFI. The less electronics the better. Would love to junkyard it and rebuild it myself to save on money. MUST be easy(ish) to work on. Any and ALL motor and transmission ideas welcome. I would like to be 1200 to 1600 pounds and get abour 5-6lbs/hp which puts me in corvette range

Carb'd Mazda 12A? All those revs...

How much does it make and how much can it make before turbo is needed? I have no qualms with turbos but that is something i want to do later.

3.4 gm v6 with 5 speed from 94ish camaro. Edelbrock intake and carb, 2.8 distributor, mild cam, headers. Should be in the 250 range on horsepower and torque.

2.3 ford (older lima not zetec). thats what all the mini stock guys out here run and they seem to hold up too the abuse really well and build enough power to propel them around the asphalt faster then the full size stock cars.

most of the older i6's are fairly heavy, if your going too lug the weight you should just go v8. sbf/sbc both pretty easy to find and the aftermarket is huge.

Here's a link to an old post on building up a turbo 12A. Figure 200HP isn't out of the question on a fairly mild amount of boost, and since it's a tiny rotary motor, it isn't going to weight a ton - even with turbo plumbing.

Volvo Redblocks are great!

One of my favorite(ridiculous) Locost engines I've seen was an ACVW. I think it's the only FR setup car I've seen with an ACVW powerplant.

Which frame size do you plan on building (original, 442, 442+) and what is the intended purpose of the car (fun street, track, autox) ? If you go with a 442 sized frame, pretty much anything will fit (5.0 V8, sr20det, etc....)

Check out the Locost USA forum if you haven't already done it. I think every engine has been tried.

Good luck with your build. I'm doing a Locost inspired build right now. It has C4 Corvette suspension and a small block Chevy V8. I sculpted a Hot Rod inspired body for it. I like Hot Rods but I want a good handling car. Combining the Locost and Hot Rod to make a Sport Rod is my goal.Building the car this way will let me go with my Hot Rod friends to all of the Hot Rod events and be accepted. And, registering the car as Street Rod is easy in most states. I'm laid up right now recovering from Knee Replacement surgery. I'm anxious to heal and get back to the build. [URL=http://s1143.photobucket.com/user/jmcbigbelly/media/tbucket%20in%20progress%20rear%20low%203816%20_zpsrytaclqe.jpg.html][/URL]

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I don't know how reasonable the idea is, but I've been toying around with the concept of a transaxle gearbox Locost for a while. Porsche 944 or Corvette are the obvious choices, but I guess that an Audi 01E (FWD configuration) could work with a bit of engineering and fabricating. For engine, how about a GM Ecotec? I don't know about carburating it, but they seem to be fairly easy to work with and can crank out a nice power figure.

The problem with transaxle's is the weight.

instead of motor -tranny - driveshaft (very light)- dif.

You have motor, bellhousing with clutch - torque tube - tranny+ diff.

The torque tube is way heavier and will require special tools to shorten enough to fit a locost.

The ACVW one I posted uses a porsche 944 transaxle.

In reply to Mad_Ratel:

Shortening the 924/944 torque tube is pretty simple. The tube is mild steel and easily cut and welded. The inner shaft can be modified/rebuilt by an axle shop if necessary.

If you have a contact in the racing sail boat world, you could potentially recreate the outer tube in CF and drop some weight without losing any strength.

The drawback to the 924/944 Torque Tube is that most use the Audi 016 gearbox and as such has two bellhousings that take up a lot of room in the rear.

If you use the 79 924 or 79-80 924 Turbo torque tube and transaxle, it uses a Porsche 915 derived gearbox that weighs less and takes up much less space, plus dogleg gearbox FTW!

All that said, I'd probably not bother if it was me, it would be just for the cool factor more than a performance gain in such a small car.

Another option would be a MidLana build where you use a FWD drivetrain in the rear. Something like an old Honda Civic/CRX or Toyota Corolla/Camry would fit your criteria since those were available with carbs and are fairly light.

I've been a member of locostusa for nearly 12 years now...

still learning new things.

(I also have yet to man up enough to build my car, first school took too much priority, then work, then kids.) I need to just man up and doit.

Many thanks for the ideas. Some nice motor info I've read. Has anyone built or rode in a SBC/SBF and a 4banger? How different was the handling? I'm looking to build something that I can race, autox, drag, and drive daily. I just want to build me a wicked toy and have something unique in town.

For a Locost, I'd use my Zetec and Ford Type F that I have sitting in my shed. Of course that's why I bought them.

You can run carbs on the Zetec, MegaJolt for the lack of distributor, and the Zetec I weighed was only about 250 lbs, IIRC. That was throttle body to exhaust manifold, water pump, ignition coil, automatic flywheel, mostly filled with fluids, and a couple of brackets.

If you're interested in a modern FWD setup with carbs and longitudinal check out quad4rods. They've got Zetec, Ecotec, Duratec and Quad4 bellhousings and carburetor adapters.

Stefan (Not Bruce) wrote: In reply to Mad_Ratel: Shortening the 924/944 torque tube is pretty simple. The tube is mild steel and easily cut and welded. The inner shaft can be modified/rebuilt by an axle shop if necessary. If you have a contact in the racing sail boat world, you could potentially recreate the outer tube in CF and drop some weight without losing any strength. The drawback to the 924/944 Torque Tube is that most use the Audi 016 gearbox and as such has two bellhousings that take up a lot of room in the rear. If you use the 79 924 or 79-80 924 Turbo torque tube and transaxle, it uses a Porsche 915 derived gearbox that weighs less and takes up much less space, plus dogleg gearbox FTW! All that said, I'd probably not bother if it was me, it would be just for the cool factor more than a performance gain in such a small car. Another option would be a MidLana build where you use a FWD drivetrain in the rear. Something like an old Honda Civic/CRX or Toyota Corolla/Camry would fit your criteria since those were available with carbs and are fairly light.

I know where a donor car is right now....

But would you hack up a running 924 to do it?

In reply to Flight Service:

When I attempted a Locost ~8-years ago, that's exactly what I did. I bought a rusty '78 924 with a seized engine, and chopped down the torque-tube to fit the chassis. My intent was to adapt a 1.8L GTI engine to the bell housing, as they shared a couple of the same holes which would have made it easier to build an adaptor plate, but I never got that far before running out of talent, money, and patience.

In hindsight, I do feel a bit bad about hacking up the 924 - I literally sawzall'd it to pieces and took it to the junkyard in the bed of my pickup. The only bodywork it really needed was the battery had leaked, taking out the battery box, and part of the firewall & passenger's floorboard below it. Of course, it was still a ~30-year old car that would have needed every bushing/hose/etc. replaced, and an engine swap of some sorts, and probably never be fast or worth as much $$ as it would have taken to fix.

In reply to petegossett:

Yeah this is a 78 with a blown head gasket that grenaded the block. I thought it was running but it isn't. Body and interior and in great shape but in the end, it is in need of an engine swap and has a drivetrain that marginal at best. 250 hp is pushing it.

Should make a great locust and sound funky (I hear the 5 cylinder Audis bolt right up)

Maybe since the gear box is weak that the suspension, brakes and differential should be used for a motorcycle engine locost. That would be something. Or one hell of an electric conversion.

Has anyone done a LS carb swap? I have seen and read a bit about it but not much.

buzzboy wrote: If you're interested in a modern FWD setup with carbs and longitudinal check out quad4rods. They've got Zetec, Ecotec, Duratec and Quad4 bellhousings and carburetor adapters.

The Zetec, Ecotec, and Duratec all have factory transmission that will make them RWD. The Zetec needs a bit of work, but the Ecotec came in the Soltice/Sky in RWD form and the Duratec came in the late model rangers and the NC (and the ND?) Miata.

Honestly I started out wanting a big engined Locost, but finally came to realize a four cylinder version was for me. Packaging, cost, and realizing the need for big horsepower would only limit my full throttle time. Especially after riding/driving in a 210 hp Caterham SV with a hopped up Duratec.

So here is an interesting question.

If you were going to go Duratec would you go 2.0/2.3/2.5 I4 cylinder or 2.5/3.0 V6?

Probably 2.0, that larger displacement isn't as critical in such a lightweight car and the responsiveness of a smaller motor would be preferential over a larger, potentially slower revving motor.

Really though, it's a matter of personal choice.

In reply to Stefan (Not Bruce):

It really is a personal choice. If I was about to start a build and didn't have my zetec, I'd grab a Duratec from a junkyard. It probably be either a 2.3 from a ranger or the more common 2.0 from a focus. If I was doing a build and buying a new engine, I'd seriously look at the Ecoboost and controls package for $5500 and a Miata transmission.

I'd also look for any parts swapping ability for the M5OD family of transmission to get the Rangers front half, thunderbirds shifter location and some strength from any of them including the F150.