semi-large tow rig build

this is going to be slow, and may get cut loose if the oil pressure gauge has not failed and the engine really does have zero oil pressure, but i highly doubt that as i ran it a while yesterday and gm gauges of this era(or most) aren't known for flawless operation.

1992 C3500HD. regular cab, 454, 4L80-e, Dana 80 rear axle. currently has the rear brake line crimped off(just found that) and a bad steering joint, and rusty cab floor. as of yesterday this is how things are going:

i got the bed on, just sitting there

what the? yeah, i need another 8 foot bed to graft together so i can have a 13 foot long bed.

so that's where i am at. i'm parting another truck that will give entire front clip and doors to this one, and probably some interior parts. and a beefy class V hitch. and mirrors. and a bunch of other stuff probably.

Needs less pickup bed and more car hauling flat bed.

You know you want to.

In reply to patgizz:

Forget grafting a 2nd bed in, you should graft in a 2nd cab - turned around backwards.

You're gonna make an Aussie truck? Rad.

petegossett wrote: In reply to patgizz: Forget grafting a 2nd bed in, you should graft in a 2nd cab - turned around backwards.

I think we might have a winner here. Got kids? Leave the steering wheel in the rear-facing driver's seat. Let 'em "drive".

Or you. Could make like....one giant avalanche. 6 door, convertible back....

Add a long haul sleeper cab.

Inspiration :

Pull the cab and put on a shortened van body? Or even better, find a single cab van body from a Uhaul and then you'll have room for a 17 foot bed!

On the steering joint: Are you going to use the Cherokee shaft to eliminate that rag joint? I need to do something about the one on the dieselBurb.

Needs more speakers and a flame throwing guitar.

Gimp wrote: Needs more speakers and a flame throwing guitar.

no E36 M3, it's a factory radio delete truck.

i may put extended cab on it, would require switching out the engine harness for the electronic trans. does not sound fun, but neither does rotten floor repair. extended cab would net an 11 foot bed. the cab swap would have to happen sooner than later as i'm getting antsy to get the extended cab parts truck out of my driveway.

i'll have to build some sort of lifting rig to pick up a cab by myself. wonder if the kids' swingset could do that, it's made out of 4x4's.

negative on the jeep shaft, 3500HD not compatible with that. will probably buy a proper u-joint and cut off the stock abomination and weld on the new one in it's place.

it has been decided, extended cab it is. i need to build a rig to pick up a cab, or splurge on a gantry from HF. i don't think i want to do that. the extended cab is a silverado model so it has everything the HD does not. power guts, radio, nice seat, etc. will just have to swap over engine harness and the auto column as the extended cab is a manual. pedals if i get adventurous but i don't really want to go that deep into the dash.

i got under the HD, the cab mounts are about to disappear and the floor is a sign over what once was steel.

Once the front clip is off and everything disconnected, 6 guys should be able to lift and carry the cab. Maybe 4 if the doors are off and seat out.

i do not have 5 friends cool enough to help me lift a cab. 99.5% of the time i'm an army of one trying to do the lifting of half a dozen.

leaning toward a temporary structure out of 4x4's that can then be reused for other stuff, like posts for a new front porch. this is going to happen sooner than later as once i get the engine out of the donor truck i want it gone in short order, it's been sitting here for 2 years since i retired it from work duty and i'm sure my neighbor would appreciate if it were gone. i'm not one to care about people thinking on my yard, but he gave me 5 trees worth of firewood so i'm trying to be a good neighbor.

the other thought was lay 4x4's across the V areas in the trusses in the garage, that is how i got the 49 plymouth body off my trailer and onto the frame, but i do not think i can get it high enough to roll the chassis with engine under.

I would have probably said screw the proper cab and built a sleeper/storage cab (think RV/camper type construction) to fill the gap like JohnRW posted. Especially if you are going to distance tow with it. You could make a pretty comfy bunk in that space that can also act as secure storage when not on a distance haul.