SkinnyG's 2010 Hyundai "Angry Accent"

Anything you buy from anywhere comes with a quality control risk.  People buying/using/returning/gets-resold is just human ignorance, which is rampant.

I got the wheel bearing changed using my home-made Hydraulic Press (Free Plans!). The bearing splitter kit is the same garbage as all the other splitters I can buy locally. Nothing exploded.  ideo soon.

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

For mine I used one of the old ones, ground down the OD just enough that it clears the hub to reinstall. Removal I have several smaller bearings I use to get them out. 

I had great success using various sockets from my 3/4-drive set, as well as a big hunk of pipe from a basketball hoop I cut down before the kids were big enough to know what it was.

I don't know if I mentioned or not, I did the shocks and lowering springs in my wife's Accent (the Sport one, above),  and I ordered two sets of rear shocks for the Sport model.  Wow.  I changed mine out real quick.  MUCH nicer valving.

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

thanks for the press design, I had initially intended to buy that kit for the cups so I could then use them with a press that I purchased in the future but they were all rusted and pitted and used so.. 

you just went with the stock hyundai shocks? 

you can get bilstien B4's for the accent mc/rio jb and get them revalved if you want to go that far. 

Custom valved Bilsteins? No. No thank you.

I'm not going to throw my wallet at a turd that is just supposed to be cheap.

In reply to SourGrapes :

OE or aftermarket?

I think my last sway bar design had inadequate arms.  I think the arms were flexing, instead of forcing the bar to twist.

Let's fix that:

And meanwhile....

This new sway bar is definitely more enjoyable (very enjoyable), but not the wide-eyed/white-knuckled drop-throttle-oversteer that I love.

I may still make a larger one....

I did make a larger bar.

I tried 1" SCH40 pipe next: 806lb/in. (130% stiffer than 3/4"-SCH40) Feels "nice!"

This time, when jacking the car behind the front wheel, the back wheel is only a fart behind in coming off the ground.

3/4" .... 3/4" SCH40 with bad arms .... 3/4" SCH40 with good arms .... 1" SCH40

I may look at plating the underside of the torsion beam next.

I do this for you fellers.  For science.

You can get A513-5 on mcmaster-carr relatively cheap. I use that grade on my frames and my certs come in at around 80,000psi yeild, 100,000 tensile. Much higher than advertised. Pipe size tubing is usually A53 and not much over 36,000. With A513-5 you can get larger stiffness with a smaller tube

The modulus of elasticity of steel is the same.  As long as I don't exceed its (low) yield strength, I should be staying in its elasticity.  These bars are not coming off the car bent in any way.

Back to the wheel bearing.  See the wee defect?  Noisy when loaded.

I'm doing it again.  I bought eight 15x6 (on the right).

15x7.5!  The 15x7's will go on my wife's Accent.

Set of four 15x7.5's complete.  Will need to blast and paint sometime.

Not wanting to waste anything, 15x3's, anyone?

Wheels are sand blasted.

Front sides are epoxy primed.  I'll do the backs tomorrow, and see when I can fit in some colour this week.

I am continually amazed at your skills. 

Oh. My. GOSH. I hate doing paint.

I mean, I love spray bombs, but this is PPG Delfleet polyurethane enamel properly sprayed.  Durable.  Which is what I want. Only I hate doing this.

Peeled the tape off just now:

These are heavier steel than my last ones.  These were a good 0.125" thick, whereas the others I did were 0.105" thick.  That's 20% heavier.

Tires should be in on Monday or thereabouts, had to come from Edmonton.  No rush, it's snowy and -25°C right now (-13°F).

You can get the degree symbol ° by holding ALT down and your keyboard, and typing 248 on the keypad.  Yay ASCII.

Hitchiker's Guide to the Galaxy: ALT-042 and think "wildcard"

Video for those prefer talkies:

SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) said:

These are heavier steel than my last ones.  These were a good 0.125" thick, whereas the others I did were 0.105" thick.  That's 20% heavier.

I've been thinking about this and I wonder if there was a difference in the later Blue model which was supposed to be the fuel economy king of the lineup? Lose a couple pounds with thinner steel because the 185-65-15 has enough sidewall to soak up most of the abuse kind of mentality. 

Probably.  The old Civic VX had super light wheels too.

Pretty sure the Blue has taller final drive as well.  I wouldn't mind the improvement in economy, but I love the deeper gearing of mine.

Don't mind the dirt, it's still winter here.  I just wanted to see what they'd look like.  A whole ton of like, apparently:

Nitto Neo Gen 205/50R15.

Painting the steelies: