SkinnyG's 2010 Hyundai "Angry Accent"

No, no.  I'm teasing.

I have a tendency to go too far on all my vehicles. You, sir, are an enabler! (grin)

Don't get rid of them - they are a great reference.

In reply to SourGrapes :

Being an owner of a BetaII powered vehicle for 10 years I can attest. You don't need to rev them, they make most of their power before 6k and the torque is there always. I would still love to Beta swap a 2nd gen 2000 Sedan. 2200lbs, 130whp. 

In reply to SourGrapes :

first gen Rio was more mazda. Second gen shared the platform with the 3rd gen (US) Accents. 2nd gen accents a beta swap was very simple. used 3 of the 4 mounts, the passenger side mount had to be shortened 3/4" IIRC and the harness laid out the same. Just swapped the MAF for a MAP plug and use the Elantra/Tiburon ECU. Those 2nd gen cars weighed nothing. You could get a 3door hatch under 2200lbs easy and a Beta would put down about 135whp and 140tq. Wasn't an ITR or anything but it was seriously quick.... and the beta loved boost.

I bet a T28 and a limited slip would be even more fun.  I have to stop bookmarking things.

I have no experience with Siberian Bushings.  They do not seem to carry the offset bushings that Super Pro does, which would gain caster (well worth it).

$400 shipped for a bar, you could get some steel and buy a cheap welder and make your own.

Or plate steel, with big exhaust clamps - clamp the plate under the torsion beam "U" boxing it in, with enough clamps or clamps spaced enough to make the U more rigid.  Stop it from torsion beaming, and you are essentially doing what a sway bar does.

In reply to SourGrapes :

I've used Siberian bushings for the rear torsion axle of my Toyota Echo race car. So far they are working well and I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.

In reply to SourGrapes :

Yeah early Kia's were more Fozda (ford/Mazda) since that's where they got their start building cars. 

I did not use adjustable sway bar links up front when I lowered it.  In theory it shouldn't matter much.  Considering very little is available for these cars, I don't think it's worth it.  End links aren't going to be what's holding you back.

If you're going coilovers, get adjustable ones so you can set zero pre-load on the bar when corner-balancing (also not, in my opinion, worth it).

One thing to consider is if parts are swappable between different chassis that share common components.  I found some offset caster bushings for a JDM Nissan SSS that totally worked on my B13 Nissan Sentra.  Sometimes you can get lucky like that.

No worries on the info you're providing - it's mapping out the rabbit hole I will eventually go down.  And somebody years from now might be going down the same path, so make sure you don't leave us hanging with whatever you post.

I think the single offsets are only ONE bushing is offset, usually to correct a "pull" due to a caster spread.  If your car drives straight, I would get the double offset and do both a-arms for increased caster.

Just picked up a 2010 sedan 5 speed from pick and pull for $1200, down from the asking price of $2200.  Didnt notice it until I leaned up against it to adjust my boot and saw it was a manual.  Asked about it and to see the title, and the story - a one owner car, traded in at dealership, tie rod broke during a test drive on an encounter with a curb, and it was junked.  I needed a new beater anyway.  Fixed it in the parking lot and wow, it was a blast to drive home, light and nimble for how bloated cars became by 2010.  Glad I found this thread and that its being updated right now, helps with my plans for this thing.

Welcome! And yes, super fun and nimble!

Pics, though, or it didn't happen! (grin)

These were 2 things that had me sold, sometimes I leave the windows down and the keys inside or a battery or starter takes a dump and well, 3 less things i need to worry about.  And notice, the shift boot has a button and a zipper on it, like I'd imagine on a Ferrari or Lambo

Chasing down a spongy brake pedal, bled all the brakes and nothing, was a stuck slider pin, now I can drive it as spiritedly as it can be.      

Having had a couple Aveo's, (all autos, decently fun to drive, one I lifted an inch and put all terrains on) a Daewoo Leganza, a 5 speed sonata, and a 5 speed spectra, this is definetly an improvement in terms of refinement over all those cars, though an Aveo with a 5 speed mightve given it a run for its money, I just didnt find one for beater car price yet.

Also, looked at a 2012 or maybe 2013 Rio at work today, it has discs in the rear though suspension looked very similar.  Will likely test fit the rear disc setup and other bits over the weekend.

I didn't use any reinforcement plates in my sway bars.  I knew those bars came with one, but looking at the holes in the spring pockets and the pigtails on the coils, I just went without it.  Probably good to use them - do they use a flat socket head cap screw?

I got your emails through GRM, but cannot reply to it and have it get through to you.  You can email me directly through g_wellwood at that wonderful Yahoo dot comma site.  Not that I'm bot-harvester-paranoid or anything.  I'm not going to stockpile parts for my turd, plus, I totally don't have the East Coast Rust issues out here.  You should Go West, Young Man!

This, on the other hand, took a Fiendishly Large amount of work:

The angled DIN pod came from Amazon, but is NOT actually DIN size.  I also had to fabricate how it mounted, since the stereo/pocket bezel does not have anything to do with where the stereo/DIN-pod is actually placed. The bezel had to be clearanced to fit the gauges. The top of the DIN pod was also closed in, since it would have been open to the deck above.

Lots of fabrication, and it fits good enough.

Stereo is a 2011 model, so technically "period correct."

The temp gauge is a capillary action mechanical gauge, and you really shouldn't "T" into the ECT sender because so much depends on an accurate number to the ECU, so since the heater hoses flow engine coolant all the time, I'll just sample that.  I fabricated this adapter out of 1" CRS, for the 5/8" hose at the engine end.

Camber is ALWAYS good on a MacStrut suspension.

Are slotting holes allowed in the rules you need to run by?  That works too.

If you slot the struts, you won't need to buy camber bolts.  You can file a slot into the struts, I'd cut about 1/16" of an inch at a time until I got camber I was happy with.

Contrary to the interwebs, camber DOES wear tires, but if your increased negative camber matches your more aggressive driving style, they may wear somewhat evenly.  A a degree to a degree and a half shouldn't be a big issue on a daily driver.  I would comfortably rock that.

I have not slotted my struts yet, as I really just want really good tire wear, and am willing to accept that this thing doesn't handle (or do anything) like my Super 7 does.  The car desperately needs more camber, so i will likely do it some day.  Don't forget to reset the toe.

I got an un-signed cryptic email through the forum suggesting I was a berkeleying shiny happy person.

Not sure I have a clue what you are talking about, whoever you are.

If a shiny happy person is someone who always has a positive attitude then go for it.  

I just bought my wife a matching Accent.   Needs some mechanical work, but the price was right.  The thread on that one is HERE.

I took my eldest son to his first Autocross.  He didn't get lost, he wasn't last, he improved significantly over the day (dropped 7 seconds).

His best run, in HS, with bald winter tires and zero prep:

My best run in The Angry Accent (needs more rear bar):

There is a surprising lack of body roll on that car. 

SourGrapes - is that you who keeps messaging me through the board?  It's your style of writing.

sway bars for these cars 21mm,22mm and 24mm. unfortunately my 22mm bar is severely pitted, so much so that its down to 21mm in parts so I am on the hunt for another used one that's in better shape. I can't find the url for the information I had pertaining to the Accent SE's rear torsion bars internal sway bar being thicker but I am quite sure that it was 2mm thicker than the stock bars on the cars that actually have an internal sway bar, apparently some don't have internal sway bars..









before my surgery I Was reinstalling everything back into my car and then disliked the massive amounts of rust coming off the frame so i removed the "skid plate" or aero plate and there were holes in the engine cradle so i had to source a new one of those. this car has been krown rust sprayed since new well up until a few years ago and has zero body rust. they must not spray inside the sub frame? it was a massive PITA to source a used sub frame as apparently this is a common failing in the rust belt, you can find a cheapish frame on ebay from France that's manufactured in china, the hyundai model was $600 or $700 and kia quoted me like $1600 or something crazy.

I  installed Siberian bushings in the new frame just because I've never had poly bushings in a car befor, meh.  it was kinda of a chore installing them I had to fab a cup to keep the bushings poly from mushrooming out.  I can post pics  of the finished job and the frame with the holes if anyone wants. 

thanks for all the help here and I apologize for asking to many question in your thread Skinny, the kia nd hyundai forums for this year of car are dead and it takes weeks to never to get a response and I Was kind of stuck but that doesn't make up for being disruptive in here. 

In reply to SkinnyG (Forum Supporter) :

I dmed or messaged you, twice I think. I am not sure I accused you of being "Berkeleying" whomever or whatever that is. I deleted my posts in here as I assumed you were displeased with me taking over your thread with the questions and posts.