so i accidently bought a car and started a challenge team last night. have questions.

If I remember tonight I'll post the video of the guy depowering a RX8 rack.

In reply to Stampie :

Im down for that assuming it shrinks the case size. Id actually prefer it!

i have a fender plan. Would love to find more on this car. 

And the airdam works! Looks like a good splitter spot. Needs giant aero wing though. 

So what's the fender plan?

In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :

The flares on the blurme and red car that tie into the airdam. They aren't stock, but are much more pleasing to the eye and narrow vs what is on the car now. The rears will be riveted overfenders like now, and the front will most likely be full fiberglass fenders or overfenders. Not sure yet, as i have a LOT to learn about fiberglass mold making and such. 

I don't think I mentioned it, but goal is under 3000lbs with driver and fuel. At the $2017 challenge it was 3207 with driver. And im 240 now....

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

By case size I assume you mean the outer case.  Nope but it removes all the internals.

In reply to Stampie :

Probably makes itvway lighter in the process too. And theres information on making them happy with the ls in tbe native rx8. 

Think you solved the problem. 

Dusterbd13-michael said:

In reply to Stampie :

Im down for that assuming it shrinks the case size. Id actually prefer it!

I doubt it would, but I'm up for learning!

Edit... just got to read further apparently.

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

I'd be interested in knowing if the rack takes straight voltage or PWM. Wonder if you could set an assist level without using the force sensor. But now that I think about it wouldn't the electric motor have to switch directions depending on which way you're turning?  Easy button might be a depower then a column assist like the Prius if needed.

I got it indoors. Used the metro as a tractor. 

Its not a good tractor. 

Goal is get flat tow setup installed, debris and padding and harnesses etc out. Then flat tow to the car wash and scrub the hell out of it. Scrutineer is coming after Thanksgiving and i want him to have a clean shell to review. Then, make my plan and cover the car in the carport until its turn. 

But, the battery still has charge! Time to get it on a tender as a spare. 

Looking forward to see this thing come back to life!

Let me know if you have questions on the tow bar but it should be very self-explanatory.

In reply to Robbie (Forum Supporter) :

It is self-explanatory. I had it mocked up before getting it into the shop. Unfortunately it won't work with my drawbar as delivered from your design. But you gave me enough to work with to make it work

Poking at this thing reminds me of how rough the shell really is. 

Im not sure i can actually make a "nice" car out of it. Lots of gaps and holes in between panels and seams, rust, badly done patching, etc. Lots and lots of hours in metalwork to make it water tight and flame resistant. 

So, i have that to look forward to. 

Do i blast the car to expose all of the ugly, epoxy prime, and then do the metalwork and reprime? Or do i fix everything I can see, blast, and fix the new issues then prime? And how far do i go for a car i don't really like but want to track to death?

Hey! just saw that you're back into this thing. Looking forward to seeing where you take it!

Dusterbd13-michael said:

Poking at this thing reminds me of how rough the shell really is. 

Im not sure i can actually make a "nice" car out of it. Lots of gaps and holes in between panels and seams, rust, badly done patching, etc. Lots and lots of hours in metalwork to make it water tight and flame resistant. 

So, i have that to look forward to. 

 

Do i blast the car to expose all of the ugly, epoxy prime, and then do the metalwork and reprime? Or do i fix everything I can see, blast, and fix the new issues then prime? And how far do i go for a car i don't really like but want to track to death?

They make small spot blasters so you can attack small areas at a time and not worry about the whole car needing to be sealed after sandblasting

"Do i blast the car to expose all of the ugly, epoxy prime, and then do the metalwork and reprime? Or do i fix everything I can see, blast, and fix the new issues then prime? And how far do i go for a car i don't really like but want to track to death?"

Strip all the surfaces down, spot patch (metalwork), down and dirty bondo, prime, all with a 'twenty footer' mindset (no reading newsprint after the last coat of clear). Bam done! 

In reply to 759NRNG :

Thats the plan for the outside, definitely. But what about the floors, wheelwells, etc?

I know that it has a LOT of weld grinding, seam sealer, etc in the short run. Lots of floor patches to seal up.

But the odd rust holes in seams i can chase for life, k have a feeling....

Tanks out.

Itvwas parked with an almost full tank. And a hole drilled through the top of it....

What the hell do i do woth that much skunked gas? 

Also, i am almost ready for pressure washing at the local car wash. Im debating pulling the flares now or later, as this particular set won't be going back on. 

Anyone need a spirit gas tank, flares, leaking radiator and shroud, or front suspension?

There's probably a chemical reclaim place run by your county to talk to about that gasoline.  Beg/borrow jerry cans and truck it in?  

I think I'd pull the flairs and then wash since they will only get in the way of getting the car a little more clean.

In reply to Dusterbd13-michael :

You could always use it to set a lawn mower on fire.

In reply to Stampie :

I'm not sure it'll burn. He'll I'm not even sure it'll kill weeds.

ready for cleaning, scrutineer, and storage. 

Have a deal in the works for stock body parts and cash for the radiused fenders, amc front suspension, amc colimn, and ford swap parts. 

Probably going to take it, as i LOVED this look

If you could... half radius the wheel openings, like between stock and what you did under the flairs, that might be nice.  I agree that on the Bullit wheels it looked really good.  Like, extremely good.

In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :

agreed! I grabbed these for 80 because i loved the bullet wheels so much. These have a higher backspace, and im slightly miffed that 200tw tires seem most common in 245/40 and 255/40 for them. Puts them at a 25 inch tall tire vs the 26-28 that would look right with radiused wheelwells. 

Unless i slam the berkeley out of it, but were already tight with ground clearance in places and looking at oval exhaust or tunneling the floor for clearance.