Thank you Angry Corvair! It looks like if I can get the window down, I can get a rod in there to pop the door latch. If I were better at operating in the blind, I might could do it with the window up, but I'm not assuming that level of skill just yet 
I was thinking about notching a bar so that I could hook the window handle to pull it up and then push it down to get the window down and get access from the top through the window opening. If someone has a better idea, I'll listen!
at least if you roll the window down you can get into the car....and that makes it drivable.
These doors are simple, assuming you can get at the guts. Occasionally a piece of the plastic glide plates inside the latch breaks off and gets jammed. Not often, but if you see the latch working and the door still won't budge...
AngryCorvair wrote: Paging RadCapz...
Thought I heard something trying to wake me early today! ahaha
You can usually pry the top of the window out far enough to get something on the window crank if it doesn't have power windows, or push a button if it does. The window can usually move an inch or more easily which is why they had blow out tabs on the upper trim to help keep the windows from sucking out at high speeds. If the outside handle is broken or the rod is no longer connected (and it's not locked) you can operate the release by wedging a screwdriver under the plastic gasket under the handle and operating the latch by pushing the screwdriver toward the center of the car when placed like the grease pencil in the pic below. Of course if it needs a windshield anyway that might be an option and they're not expensive.
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I doubt the doors are sabotaged as they would have had to sabotage it at the shop or drive it with a door open.
And it seems unlikely that both doors are broken the same way
I would triple check that the locks are pulled all the way up. Sounds like they might ride pretty high in the locked position
Woo-hoo! That is an option I can do 
The blow-out tab is not on the driver's side, and was pulling out easily, that was my plan of attack on that front, but if I can pop it like you showed with the screwdriver, that will be even better. Thanks! Tied up the rest of the week, but hopefully I can get some pics this weekend of the interior
Dusterbd13 wrote: These doors are simple, assuming you can get at the guts. Occasionally a piece of the plastic glide plates inside the latch breaks off and gets jammed. Not often, but if you see the latch working and the door still won't budge...
The rotating collar on the striker gets broken and wedged sometimes on these cars. Doubt both doors would be bad but if everything seems like it's functioning and the door won't open, a swift kick from the inside back seat area aimed at the latch area of the door can set them free.
Looking at the car (along with the tricycle in the back seat), it may have been towed into the low, so sabotage may not be out of the question. Once I get it open, I can deal with the rest of it, it's just the getting it open and not breaking anything worse that's the concern. The PO's level of concern for the door handles was to screw a piece of wood to the passenger door handle to repair it being broken 
Presuming you don't have keys, once you're in the car you can remove the rear seat back and use a 7/16" socket on multiple extensions to remove the 2 bolts holding the striker to the deck lid to get the trunk open. Do not loosen the 3 bolts holding the latch to the tail panel.
The trunk latch was already removed, so it's where I can stick in a screwdriver right now. The driver's side hinge rusted loose from the rear cowl panel and folded up, so I had to push that down by hand to get the trunk to close. I've got to clean that out and see how difficult a patch job that's going to be. I've got a new cylinder ordered for it, and I've got a very reasonable locksmith that can rekey it to match the door locks if they're still working. If not, I'll just order new ones. I love being able to get stuff inexpensively!
In reply to HoserRacing:
sell the tricycle for challenge budget recoup goodness!
That's the thought, as well as the 4 carbs in the trunk!
I'm wanting to do wheels on it, it's got some 14" Torq Thrust wheels, but I'd like to do a 16" or 17" to get better choices in tires. I know later Camaros/Firebirds (I'd LOVE some GTA wheels!) will work, as well as S10, but not sure what width/offsets to be looking for. Anyone have input?
Third generation camaro without spacers. 4th Gen with. Corvette with. S10 2wd without.
Honestly, it's a chevy. Used wheels are cheap. So, 17x9 vette wheels, 2.5 inch spacers, and 275/40/17 will be plenty and cheap.
Yeah, used wheels are cheap, but finding the right ones, that's what makes it fun That's why I'm trying to find out specific information on what fits - what backspace to fit with an 8" wheel, or a 9" wheel, what to stay away from in offsets, etc. I'd prefer not to use spacers, and I've got some spare 275/40/17s, but will they fit up front?
On a good note: It's alive!!!!!!! Got the door open last night, put a battery in, poured a little gas in the carb & she fired up. Added 2 quarts of ATF and it drove around the yard! Too dark when I got through to get pics, but at least I know it runs and will move under it's own power. Woo-hoo!!!!
So... when are we getting some pics of this sweet street machine? 
GM cars of that era are about the easiest things to open with a Slim-Jim, so easy in fact that I'm shocked that every single one wasn't stolen. If I recall correctly, go a few inches forward of the button and push straight down. The lock should pop right up.
Howdja get in??
Used Not A TA's pics, the DS window would pull out enough that I got a clamp on the window crank, rolled the window down and pushed the button. I couldn't do it by blind feel the first time, think I might could now. Taking the kids on a long weekend getaway before school starts back, hopefully get some pics Sunday.
I have a set of late C4 sawblades, 17x8.5" front ET56, 17x9.5" rear also ET56. Having a hard time getting $100 for the set, as they are not perfect. Yours for $50 plus shipping.
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/wto/5721036174.html
Oh that's tempting. I looked for a 2.5" spacer but couldn't find any. How will running spacers that large affect suspension? I had always heard that big changes in offset were harder on bearings. Old wive's tale?
Found a 6 speed to convert from automatic 
2.5 spacers aren't bad. You're not really changing the offset, either. Wheel still lands in the same spot in the wheelwell. I am running 2.5 on the elky. Got them from ebay. Just search 2.5 hubcentrix spacers.
Lots of wheel tire combos and specs to look at here. http://transamcountry.com/community/index.php?topic=23970.0
I'm partial to the N90 wheels on late 2nd Gen Camaros. You know, the ones they also put on the later Monte SS:
The stock ones are only 15x7, but the aftermarket has stepped in recently and offered larger sizes! Year One sells them in a 17x8. They are not cheap, but maybe you can find a set used on NastyZ28.com or something like that.
If I had a '79 Z28 instead of a '79 Trans Am, I'd be all over those.
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