The majority of the plumbing is done
This my favorite gadget!
If your cell phone has the ability to screen mirror/screen share/cast then this thing will send video and audio from whatever is on your phone screen to your tv/monitor as long as it has an hdmi port. I particularly like this one and the Screen Beam, both of which do not require wifi to operate. To the best of my knowledge, these are the only two on the market which do not require wifi. My cell plan has unlimited data (no throttling) so this can stream all my internet based streaming services with no cable fees.
And on a completely different topic, I saw this awesome thing parked down the street from me today!
The foot operated drinking water faucet is complete!
Re: auto start/stop, not sure if it works/talks to that particular year and not quite Ford setup, but it's disabled on my work truck via ForScan. I'm not an expert on it, just follow internet instructions. Has worked fine. In my case I think the code change is telling it that there's always some steering input (turning the wheel starts it back up in my f150). Earlier trucks I changed some other code, but still reliably disabled it.
In reply to Spearfishin :
Great, thanks for the information!
Now make something that siphons heat from the motor when it is running to heat your hot water for showering. 
wae
PowerDork
6/15/23 10:02 p.m.
My motorhome has a water heater that does exactly that. They run the coolant through it on the way back to the rear bedroom heater. By the time I arrive at my destination (or stopover), I've got a very hot shower waiting for me.
Turning my focus to finishing the electrical systems and ,due to the A/C location, attempting to optimize the A/C capabilities while I am at it. Part of this process involved slightly relocating the A/C unit within the cabinet in such a way that separates the front half of the A/C unit from the back half. The 2k btu A/C is certainly better than nothing but could stand to be better on the really hot days. It only draws a max of 276 watts, so its performance is admirable. I am not an A/C expert but it appears that the unit is similar to a standard household/apartment roll away A/C that would exhaust heat out of a window mounted vent. In order to exhaust the hot air out of the house, it has to draw air into the house (van). The unit has an intake on the back side which draws in air across the Condenser Coil (the part out in the yard on a standard home a/c) which it then exhausts out thru the roof. It also has an intake on the front of the unit which draws in air across the Evaporator Coil (the part inside the house which supplies the cold air) which it then blows into the van. Due to the nature of the unit, it must draw in air from outside the van in order to exhaust hot air out of the van, so as not to create a vacuum. The air drawn in from outside is currently following the path of least resistance thru the front sliding pocket door cavities, into the cab and then past the weatherstripping around the interior sliding door which divides the cab from the Mobile Hotel Room. The air in the cab is superheated by all the glass and the uninsulated nature of the aluminum cab. That air is mixed with the cooled air already in the Mobile Hotel Room, reducing the A/C efficiency. I do have plans to insulate the cab as much as possible but it will never be enough. That said, I am trying to bypass the cab and draw the incoming air directly from outside the van and isolate that air from the Mobile Hotel Room as it passes thru the Condenser Coil and is then exhausted thru the roof. At that point, the air that is being circulated thru the Evaporator coil, should be mostly interior air (already cooled) which is then recirculated (mostly) without the hot air from outside the van.
I am using some one way valves at the base of the Electric Supply / Air Cond cabinet to allow in the outside air. The valves are routed far from the Engine Exhaust pipe. This air (most of which will never reach the inside of the MHR) should not be any worse than driving down the road with a window down. I will add a Carbon Monoxide detector in the MHR just for good measure. The MHR will never be air tight, so I am not concerned about using up the oxygen in the the MHR. In theory.......I could be wrong. Anyone see a flaw in the plan?
One way valves
Cabinet doors have weather stripping. Just need to add a directional vent at the bottom of the unit.
Woohoo, the AC/DC refrigerator/freezer is mostly installed, just need to add the vent screen at the top. I don't know yet if the door panels have a different color on the back sides, hoping for white. If not, I may get some peel and stick white vinyl from the local sign shop.
I was able to swap in white door inserts into the frig doors. Precision cut white pvc from local sign shop $26.
Making progress on the solar electric install. Very close to done.
Videos
In reply to Ben_Modified :
That's a tidy wiring job!
The electrical for the Solar system is done. Time to mount and connect the panels to the roof!
Following, because reasons.
