Subaru WRX TDI

Time for a VNT-17, nozzles, and a tune. 

Welding and painting engine mounts and engine crossmember.

I always hoard the little scraps from the plasma table, you never know when they'll be the perfect part for something else.

In reply to 10001110101 :

It's really too bad that the VNT17 is ten times more expensive than a replacement cartridge :(

Hey, not trying to steal your thread but I just wanted to noticed you said you had to figure out the starter situation and I wanted to share what you may need to do for a starter/ flywheel setup. I ordered valeo clutch/flywheel kit 52285615, and starter napa number 244-8520 after Subarugears got back to me, I had issues with the starter not fitting the adapter plate, but after this little modification it fits fine. Starter has coarse threads and the adapter plate uses fine threads, so you may need to drill out the starter threads and run a bolt through it if yours has the same issue. 

Great looking mounts/crossmember

In reply to AKsubi :

Great info, better than the "uh IDK, you need a RWD Vanagon TDI starter, I don't know what year" vague BS I got from SubaruGears myself. Annoyingly, means that the flywheel and pressure plate I already bought won't work :(

In reply to newrider3 :

I wasted a decent amount of money due to the same issue, hoping more people interested in doing this swap see this thread before buying parts. Have you figured out the pilot bushing size yet? If not I have dimensions for it as well.

Yeah the word that popped into my head after seeing that crossmember was "elegant", really nice work. Did you design it on computer first, or was that just made up as you went?

In reply to AKsubi :

Dimensions would be great! I have a oillite bushing I plan to adapt, just haven't confirmed measurements on my parts yet.

Run_Away said:

Yeah the word that popped into my head after seeing that crossmember was "elegant", really nice work. Did you design it on computer first, or was that just made up as you went?

That was mostly built to suit, but I did CAD model and CNC plasma cut several of the pieces. You can see an example of my process on Page 3 of this thread: I tend to make a cardboard template to fit; then scan it, trace it in Solidworks, send the .dxf to SheetCam and finally cut parts on the CNC plasma.

Great progress! I'm glad to see that this project isn't stalled out. 

In reply to newrider3 :

21.14mm OD, 12mm ID, 10mm deep is what I used for the pilot bushing

How is it going with the build? i am planing of doing the same in my Impreza and maby need som advise =)

Not the update anyone wants to see, but this car is going to be for sale. Moving and downsizing due to a divorce, and I just don't see dragging it along to probably still not get worked on.

It still needs the correct flywheel and starter (as documented by the wonderful advice above) as well as wiring, plumbing, interior cleaning and reassembly, intake and exhaust, likely an ECU tune with immobilizer delete.

Look for a for-sale post coming soon. Price at one Challenge budget or thereabouts?

Interested! I'm in Ouray (SW Colorado) and have been following the build. I owned a few TDI's and Subaru's over the years and love the mashup. Let me know if you're serious about selling!

In reply to WillG80 :

Sent you a message, check your email spam folder (seems like GRM messages always get flagged).

Message sent. Very interested in this project!

WillG80 picked up the WRX TDI a couple weeks ago, stay tuned here for progress updates from him!

In reply to AKsubi :

Hi, is this 100% the correct flywheel and pressure plate? Really struggling to find the correct one any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks Adam

In reply to adamlew :

What swap are you tryna do?

I ended up buying this project from WillG80 late last year. I drove 15 hours round trip from Salt Lake City area to Ouray CO.

I have to say Newrider3 did a great job getting the project going! The engine was mounted in the engine bay for transportation, but with no clutch or flywheel. The flywheel and clutch setup he ordered ended up being incorrect. Subarugears unfortunately does not have very good documentation on the parts needed to use their adapter.

I have done some small jobs on the car, cleaning and reinstalling most of the interior and organizing and sorting the stash of parts that came with the car.

I have also been collecting a few new parts and today I was able to take care of a big mechanical part of the project. 

I pulled the engine and adapter plate. First on the schedule for today was to address the starter motor installation.

The yellow paint was sprayed while the plate was still attached to the transmission to mark where the starter clearance needed some work.

The starter motor is from an B4 Audi A4 1.8t manual. I had to grind the starter to get it to mount flush to the adapter plate. The plate and starter motor are both threaded. I decided to drill out the plate holes and use bolts from the backside to mount the starter. I then started attacking the bell housing with the sawzall to allow for clearance.

After many test fits I got enough clearance to mount the starter.

The flywheel and pressure plate is from a single mass conversion kit for the B4 Audi 

I got the flywheel torqued in place using the included TTY bolts and red loctite.

Dan had included a pilot bushing to take up the space between the vw crank and the Subaru input shaft, but the OD was too small. Luckily I had a scrap of 1" brass bushing stock and this would be the perfect job for the mini lathe.

Next I got the Subaru exedy stage 1 clutch disc (I anticipate needing a stronger clutch with the torque of a tuned TDI, but this will get me on the road.) installed with the Audi pressure plate.

After putting a little grease on the input shaft splines and the clutch fork pivot ball, I installed the fresh throw out bearing and stabbed the engine back in the car! 

Next I need to order a new turbo, start figuring out all the engine bay plumbing, and work on building a wiring harness. I plan on having my tuner delete all unnecessary sensors and functions to make the wiring harness easier to handle. 

I hope to have the car driving by the end of the summer!

Picking a clutch for a tuned TDI is a tough game. I went with an Exedy as well and I hope it holds up with 300ft*lbs and 3000lbs

Excellent progress! I'm eager to see it moving via diesel power.

oooh, this car combo always fascinated me!  Glad to see it is getting resurrected. 

Update time! 

I got my shiny new turbo from Poland this week. It's a GT1752 which is basically a VNT 17 with a slightly larger compressor wheel.

Unfortunately after installing it I noticed the compressor outlet was pointing straight at the engine mount. I pulled it back out and loosened the 8mm bolts that hold the compressor to the center section and rotated the clocking so the outlet is between the VNT actuator and the engine mount.

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Now I need to figure out a plan and order a bunch of parts for intercooler and piping. I'm the meantime, let's see what the radiator situation looks like.

The stock Subaru radiator sits too close to the crank pulley for my comfort (1/4") and does not leave much space for intercooler piping. The car came with an aluminum civic radiator in the back, so I assume Dan had a similar thought. Unfortunately, with the radiator mocked up in what seemed like a decent spot had the upper hose outlet pointing straight at the front of the motor. Also, the radiator cap neck made the whole setup too tall for the hood to close.

Since I plan on using the VW coolant expansion tank, I should not need the cap/fill neck on the road at all. Time for some cut and weld!

Before:

After:

I suck at TIG welding aluminum, but it seems like it should work. If I have any pinhole leaks I'll seal them up with JB.

I measured, marked, and drilled holes in the lower radiator support and dropped the radiator in place using some rubber grommets and a couple 1/4" pieces of 1/2" hose as spacers. I came up with a plan for a removable upper radiator support that keeps the radiator in place but need to run to the metal supply place and grab some 1/8" thick 2" angle.

I'm a little surprised that you're having the outlet on the passenger side. Seems like it adds 2 feet of extra piping that you don't need. I'm curious to see your final radiator hose routing.