Had my (almost) 4 year old daughter come out and hold the flashlight for me. It's (almost) pointed usefully.
Had my (almost) 4 year old daughter come out and hold the flashlight for me. It's (almost) pointed usefully.
OjaiM5 said:Cool find!
This place in LA sells a bunch of different and cool bodies
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/pts/d/bill-devin-ss-vintage-body-only/7105985910.html
Does this company have a website?
In reply to XenaFordPrincess :
Looking, I have found (2) businesses that have this number it seems.
http://www.rctakeoff.com/
http://www.westcoastairdesign.com/contact.html
also pulled a facebook post from these guys with same info. So, no, I havent found a business name or site.
The one place I was looking at is these guys:
http://www.usbody.com/Pages_Cars/66-Cobra.htm
How about the center of a cobra body and build a custom nose and tail .
since the chassis is so well built and for a Cobra body it seems a shame to cut it up ,
maybe more of a Ferrari nose and tail.....
In reply to Thinkkker :
Don't buy a body, make one. Use about $50 worth of foam $10 worth of 1x3 boards. And another $50 worth of bondo. Well ok if you want really nice make that $80-100 worth of cheap bondo.
Put it all together in a rough shape you visualize. You want cobra Ferrari Jaguar Aston Martin space ship whatever. Just have some pictures. If you don't have a good eye for proportion scale them up. A lot of those cars were just some Italian bashing on a Cinzano. Sign until he liked the shape. You can do the same with foam. Or Jaguars actually have mathematical numbers assigned to every location on their body.
All that will be is the pattern. foam is so easy to work with. Hand saws cut through it like butter and if you cut too much off one side you use those spray cans of foam to repair it. In less than a weekend you should have the body roughed out.
You don't need solid blocks of foam. Just 2 inch thick maybe doubled in places where there will be a lot of curves or depth. Stick them to the wood 1x3's put 2 inch screws through the 1by's and just press them into the foam. Mix up a big gob of bondo and paste the wood and foam together or you can use spray foam. Both work. Once cured it will hold pretty well.
The foam needs to be covered with bondo for this to work. Apply it as smoothly as possible but if you decide to make the fender a little higher or fatter etc just put layer after layer of bondo on. If you change your mind and want to cut away something if you go into the foam take it an extra 1/8th inch more to add back a layer of Bondo.
Satisfied? Start to smooth things out. Use one of those air files used by body shops. 36 grit to start. Dust mask and hearing protection. When you pause to let the air compressor catch up, put a couple of air tool oil drops in the air coupler end of the tool. Replace the sandpaper when it's clogged up. Have lots on hand. Once the shape is what you want. Switch to 50 grit and remove all the 36 grit scratches then 150 grit. From now on you can use a random orbital sander. 220 grit 320 grit and buy a few cans of spray paint, lacquer because it dries fastest doesn't matter what color. Several Dark and one contrasting light. Spray it completely with the dark. And then give it a light misting all over with the light. Now using a hand sanding board band 320 grit lightly remove the mist paint. Low spots won't be removed. There you need to put a skim coat of filler.
I'm OCD at this point. I take excessive care because I don't want criticism. Your standards may be different.
in general It takes me about 40 hours or so to go from concept to ready for the fiberglass.
If you want I'll continue.
Thinkkker said:In reply to XenaFordPrincess :
Looking, I have found (2) businesses that have this number it seems.
http://www.rctakeoff.com/
http://www.westcoastairdesign.com/contact.htmlalso pulled a facebook post from these guys with same info. So, no, I havent found a business name or site.
The one place I was looking at is these guys:
http://www.usbody.com/Pages_Cars/66-Cobra.htm
I think they're called Toluca Lake Classic Motorsports. www.tlcmotorsport.com
In reply to frenchyd :
That whole thought process did run through my head. One thing that I thought about this, is that what you said above gets the "start". After this you would need to setup and make a buck for it. Then after that is done, you go back in and make the body from the buck.
Am I right or wrong in this? Its not out of the question, I am not sure how I feel about this for this project is all.
What about a neon body? Find a really rusty one, flare the piss out of it, and nend it? Really mess with people.
So....... Anyone around Detroit that may be able to help out with the pickup of a body? I have a line on one, but logistics kinda suck!
Thinkkker said:So....... Anyone around Detroit that may be able to help out with the pickup of a body? I have a line on one, but logistics kinda suck!
I'd post this in the main forum for more eyes, I know we have quite a few detroit GRMers.
So, this project is dead. I sold it off yesterday afternoon.
I have not yet put the engine in the Birkin, and with the 4 kids, its always a full plate. Given that, I listed it up and make 25% on investment over the past 5 months.
Could be worse, and if I do something like this, it will be tailored for much more lightness.
Thinkkker said:In reply to frenchyd :
That whole thought process did run through my head. One thing that I thought about this, is that what you said above gets the "start". After this you would need to setup and make a buck for it. Then after that is done, you go back in and make the body from the buck.
Am I right or wrong in this? Its not out of the question, I am not sure how I feel about this for this project is all.
I'm sorry I failed to respond earlier.
For future use,
No. You don't have to make a buck. And all that complexity. Once You make the pattern that's it.! Well you have to wax the heck out of the pattern so the mold releases.
Next you lay fiberglass over it to make a mold.
Making a mold for me doing a hand lay up is about 4 hours of work. Very important to have things planned and layed out in advance before you mix the chemicals in order to keep things from being messy.
There's a lot I'm skipping over but there are plenty of U tube sites to show the details. If you have questions ask.
Once you have the mold, wax the heck out of that. Making the body is about the same amount of work. At this point you can either paint it or just wax the Gel coat. ( the Gel coat can be any color)
fberglas work is terrifying the first time. But gets easier and easier each time you do it. Just don't get overconfident and skip steps. That's when disaster happens.
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