Swank's XJ Cherokees

CarKid1989 wrote: GF has been wanting a Cherokee and i am looking casually for a second/replacement vehicle. Is there a buyers guide for these or a good area to get up to speed before finding one?

There's a couple threads on Cherokeeforum titled like "What's the best XJ" and blah blah blah.

I like the 97+. If it has ABS, it'll have the Dana rear axle which is weaker. If no ABS, it'll have a Chryco 8.25 in the back which is stronger and makes for easy rear disc brake conversions.

Auto vs. manual doesn't really matter. It's a great auto, and a mediocre manual. (Strong, but really trucky with strange ratios)

Get one with a 4.0.

00-01 have funky exhaust manifolds for emissions, but a "better" intake manifold that helps with power. 00-01 have coil on plug which doesn't seem to have any advantages, but is more expensive to service. (That said, it's only ~$100 every... decade?) 00-01 have the 0331 casting head, which is more prone to cracking than earlier heads. Wouldn't call it a deal breaker, as TUPY casting updated heads are readily available and these things aren't exactly hard to work on. I would just keep that in mind if you're looking at an 00-01 at a premium price.

I'm told 96s have a different head that flows 20-30cfm more than others. Does it matter? No. Just fun info.

Window regulators often fail in 4dr Cherokees. There's a $40 "fix it" kit that ends up being stronger than OEM.

Heater core replacement is balls. Make sure the Cherokee you buy has great working heat. If it doesn't and you still want it, lowball like crazy.

Light output sucks. Upgrade to E-codes and a relay harness ASAP. Don't seek out one with foglight. They're cool if they work, but they don't work for long.

Mileage doesn't matter. The 4.0 liter runs forever, the transmissions last forever. Full suspension/steering rehab costs like... a dollar.

97-99 would be my choice. The only qualifiers i'd need past that is that it has to have the 4.0 and 4wd. The rest? Don't care.

CarKid1989 wrote: GF has been wanting a Cherokee and i am looking casually for a second/replacement vehicle. Is there a buyers guide for these or a good area to get up to speed before finding one?

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/used-xj-buyers-guide-checklist-stuff-look-161961/
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/cherokee-stock-specs-26256/

Grille, tailgate, and interior updates happened in '97 (I prefer these later models). 4x4 will have a HP D30 until ~'99 when they got the TJ sourced LP D30 front axle. Earlier front axles until ~'90-'91 will have vacuum disconnect (CAD), prone to failure, but there are several options to remedy. Later ~'00+ got extra emissions, a pair of pre-cats, and fewer aftermarket exhaust options. Later modes got the 0331 casting head, alleged to crack if you look at it funny, my '01 has an 0331 head with over 250K miles and no issue. Coil-on-plug ignition in '99+. If you want 4x4, stick with '87 or newer for the NP231 transfer case, if you want full time AWD selectability go with the NP242. Rear axle is going to be a D35 or Chrysler 8.25 (rarer than hens teeth, but late '80s D44 was optional too). D35 is adequet for highway use, and not much larger than stock tires. If you want ABS you're stuck with a D35. Otherwise hold out for the 8.25. Factory LSD was available in both the 8.25 & D35. The Leather seats offered in the Classic and Limited trims are comfortable, and worth having, in my opinion.

My personal opinion, I'd be looking for a '97-'98 4x4, as the best factory options and later body style.

Everything that Swank and BDL posted is adequate. I'll just throw in my $.02.

If you want to look at a pre-facelift Cherokee, look for a '95 or '96, they are the best of that era. My '95 Sport came standard with power windows, power door locks, and Cruise. Also, they were the only two years with a drivers side airbag in that body style.

'97 to '01 have a better interior IMO, but I really don't mind the earlier interiors.

No matter what the year, if you get one, replace all the hood latch hardware. It's really easy to replace and it all costs under $100. The XJ has two hood latches and if one starts to wear, it will cause strain on the latch cable and it will break easily. I greased mine a couple times, but it didn't seem to help.

Supposedly, it's a common issue, but I never seem to hear about it. I was lucky that one latch stopped latching, because it allowed me to get the hood open after the cable snapped. Luckily I knew an old Chrysler mechanic that told me a trick to get the hood open.

Blend door verified working properly and sealing perfectly on blue Jeep.

Dammit.

So i'm doing a heater core replacement on blue this summer i guess, but in the meantime, here's a random picture of them both together. Angle of the picture doesn't really show the size difference. Her hood is at least 3" higher than mine in real life. The main "tell" is how much more sun you see on the ground under her's than mine.

Babes by concealer404, on Flickr

Finally replaced the headlights with the Autopal H4 housings and the Putco harness on the red jeep a week or so ago. HUGE difference. I can see at night, now. Cutoff is about as good as it gets without a projector, and the magic smoke hasn't come out yet.

Ordered parts to repair the regulator, should be here Monday. Going to try to finally get the motor and trans mounts done next week, and fill trans with Amsoil goodness.

We're taking the red one down to Deal's Gap for our anniversary trip next weekend, since it has working A/C and is comfy.

Question (and i will probably ask this in general forum too): I need to replace the steering wheel. Finding a non cruise control wheel in the junkyard has proven fruitless. If i can't find the exact OEM wheel in good shape (Which probably won't happen anyways), i'd like to do a Grant because it's cheap and just redneck enough for this truck.

I'm thinking this one because it's cheap and looks ok-ish: http://www.amazon.com/Grant-702-Signtre-Foam-Cushion/dp/B000CMH3T2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434634842&sr=8-1&keywords=grant+702

Swank Force One wrote: Babes by concealer404, on Flickr

Oh, those two lovely Jeep. Good luck on the build

If i'm going to get a redneck steering wheel, should i get a redneck shift knob, too? What should i get?

Miss my old cherokee. Just an unkillable animal that never stranded me. Only bitch was 10-12 mpgs...

In reply to 84FSP:

Ouch!

Swmbo gets bad mileage in hers but with her commute there's nothing she would get good mileage in.

Myself... I've gone 310 miles on current tank, gauge shows a quarter tank left.

Probably be 22-23mpg again this tank.

5spd right?

Yeah, 5spd and 2dr both seem to help.

Fixed the window with the $20 4dr repair kit. Not a fun job, but wasn't terrible. Messy, mostly. Need to adjust a little, window is slow and "catchy" in a certain spot, but it goes up, down, and doesn't leak. Good enough.

Never posted a pic of the headlights. Looks awful and blinding in this picture, but the cutoff is really quite good. This is low beams.

20150617_195236 by concealer404, on Flickr

Installed the Daystar poly motor mounts last night, not a fun job. The old mounts were totally and completely hosed. My motor now sits over an inch higher in the bay.

Bought spark plugs on a whim, it's had a light random misfire at idle for awhile. Jokes with my buddy "some moron probably put Bosch Platinums in it."

...And then pulled out some Bosch Platinums.

Installed Champion Coppers. Runs wayyyyy better now.

I like the motor mounts. Wish i had the trans mount installed to go with it.

About to head out with it to drive down to Fontana Village for the weekend. Longest trip i've taken with it yet. Adventure time!

The Cherokee of Rarity did ridiculously well this weekend. Put about 1200 miles on it, required no fluid top offs of any kind except for gas. Drove through some really awful weather and drove the dragon under the worst of conditions.

Which... Brings me to the icing on the cake. Second to last tank was almost all exploring the Smokies including 50 miles of forest service dirt roads/trails. 23.6mpg.

Last tank all highway bulling up and down the hills of 411, 75, and 74, running 75mph.

23.7mpg.

Ran down some Mustangs on the Cherohala on the way to the dirt roads.

Starting to REALLY like this rig.

Stick axle Jeeps are surprisingly good handling things.

Yep, it doesn't FEEL great but it's relatively light, weight transfers well, and 235 width tires are a good amount of tread. Stick it in the right gear and it launches out of corners well too.

I can see how the XJ-R was so potent. Wouldn't take much to make this thing a ridiculous troll-mobile.

Considering it instead of lifting it. Focus on making it more street friendly instead of off road. Interesting to think about, for sure.

The best part is that XJs of that vintage have tires that are almost the same size as performance sedans have nowadays.

Just sayin'.

ssswitch wrote: The best part is that XJs of that vintage have tires that are almost the same size as performance sedans have nowadays. Just sayin'.

Orrrr..... stick a 4.8 LS in there, spin it a bit higher than a 4.0, and shorten up the tires a little bit to make the ratios work a bit better with the AX15, and add acceleration.

A 255/40-17 would look pretty good under an XJ, i think.

I found it pretty funny that I ran a 245/55/18 on my WJ... that were dealer take off's of a new-then 2011 V6 Camaro. That thing would've been a riot with some 265/50/18 NT555's and stiffer shocks/springs.

Got the correct trans mount. Was not a fun job to replace since the new mount is stiff enough that lining everything up was a E36 M3ty and dangerous job. Or maybe it was just dangerous because of how i tried to do it.

Anyways, it's in.

Here's what the mount looks like. No pics of it installed because i was too rage-y at that point for pictures.

20150704_141500 by concealer404, on Flickr

And what the motor mounts look like.

20150704_142004 by concealer404, on Flickr

Impressions now that i have all three mounts installed: Awesome. There's quite a bit more NVH at idle and very low rpms, but maybe 25% more at cruising speeds, at most. Shifter feels much more precise now, has lost a lot of that clunky "truck" feel. Entire driveline no longer bouncing around when i hit bumps is nice. It just... feels good.

If you purchase an XJ, these should be your first purchase, as every XJ i've ever seen for sale or purchased has/had completely blown out engine and trans mounts.

Swank Force One wrote: If you purchase an XJ, these should be your first purchase, as every XJ i've ever seen for sale or purchased has/had completely blown out engine and trans mounts.

I'm actually fairly certain that I junked mine because I overlooked this fact. I kept blowing slave cylinders, the ones that require a trans removal to replace. They kept leaking at the line connection to the slave unit. Huge PITA. But that was when I was young. I think now I would first replace the engine and trans mounts and then see how long a slave would hold up.

rcutclif wrote:

Swank Force One wrote: If you purchase an XJ, these should be your first purchase, as every XJ i've ever seen for sale or purchased has/had completely blown out engine and trans mounts.

I'm actually fairly certain that I junked mine because I overlooked this fact. I kept blowing slave cylinders, the ones that require a trans removal to replace. They kept leaking at the line connection to the slave unit. Huge PITA. But that was when I was young. I think now I would first replace the engine and trans mounts and then see how long a slave would hold up.

SO many really bad noises were eliminated with this.

And also cemented the idea that my step-FIL lied about rebuilding the front end and replacing the shocks in the last 2 years. Got some fun noises going on in the passenger front end. Closer examination shows worn tie rods everywhere, and some REALLY old shocks. Old enough that the bushings are pretty much nonexistent.

Also noticed that the downpipe right after the last header collector is crushed really badly. No idea what from, i can't imagine what could have made it up there. It's ended up at about half the diameter it should be.

This could be why i was having to downshift into 4th gear on i75N to maintain 75mph going up hills.

Guess i'll be doing some long tube headers and a similar exhaust to the blue jeep sooner rather than later. Expecting BIG power gains and possibly some more efficiency.

So much to be fixed on mine, but I really probably should hit those motor mounts.

Make sure you get the right trans mount. I'm not impressed with Daystar as a company, but the mounts themselves look good.

The M.O.R.E. Bombproof mounts are what i would get if i wasn't on a Ramen diet.