T-bucket build, Supercharged BMW V8 with NOS

Engine looks terrific.  What's your method for cleaning up all the aluminum castings?

That is an eclectic mix. Watching with interest. 

In reply to AngryCorvair :

The EFI system I've found and like is called Speeduino, an arduino based efi system

In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :

What castings are you referring to?  I'm not looking to make a show car, this thing will be driven, alot and driven hard.

Mykk said:

In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :

What castings are you referring to?  I'm not looking to make a show car, this thing will be driven, alot and driven hard.

I just meant the engine and supercharger, and all.  Everything looks really nicely cleaned up and uniform in appearance.  I assume you spent some time and elbow-grease getting them all looking sharp.

That adapter kit to bolt the M112 to the M62 is really interesting, I've never seen an accessory pulley mounted in space like that. Neat. The combo looks amazing, Jaguar may not know how to make their cars work, but by god do they know how to make an engine look amazing.

I'm with USERNAMETAKEN though as to curious how you got the intake and trans and everything looking so clean. Machine shop and vatted? Pressure washed? Dry Ice blasted? When I clean cast aluminum it never looks that nice.

This is one to watch, I'm especially interested to see how the chassis comes together.

USERNAMETAKEN said:

Mykk said:

In reply to USERNAMETAKEN :

What castings are you referring to?  I'm not looking to make a show car, this thing will be driven, alot and driven hard.

I just meant the engine and supercharger, and all.  Everything looks really nicely cleaned up and uniform in appearance.  I assume you spent some time and elbow-grease getting them all looking sharp.

I hear ya now, just an over the counter engine degreaser gel, hand brushes, wire brushes, wash off and paint. Nothing special. Otherwise everything is as cast from jag or bmw

In reply to Mykk :

Ok, cool.  So really just elbow-grease!  Good to know how nice those results can be.

That engine seems too nice to run off of a $35 hobbyist prototype board (Arduinos are pretty fragile)...

But otherwise, this looks fantastic!

morello159 said:

That engine seems too nice to run off of a $35 hobbyist prototype board (Arduinos are pretty fragile)...

But otherwise, this looks fantastic!

I've been running one for a year in a naturally aspirated version of the same engine platform. I've been happy with it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRjPw6jeFoU

Mykk said:

morello159 said:

That engine seems too nice to run off of a $35 hobbyist prototype board (Arduinos are pretty fragile)...

But otherwise, this looks fantastic!

I've been running one for a year in a naturally aspirated version of the same engine platform. I've been happy with it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRjPw6jeFoU

 

E34?

Sounds great in the video. Do you have a build thread for that wild ride?

Indy-Guy said:

E34?

Sounds great in the video. Do you have a build thread for that wild ride?

https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/project-ares-1995-bmw-540i6/139298/page1/

Will you be pre-lubing before you start that beast?  And if so where would you tap into the motor to do it?

mbruneaux said:

Will you be pre-lubing before you start that beast?  And if so where would you tap into the motor to do it?

Yes, The oil pump can't be driven by hand externally. I'm thinking one of the pipe plugs currently closing off the ends of the oil filter adapter. I can plumb into the adapter, fill oil into a sealed canister and pressurize canister with shop air to force oil into engine and oil passages

That's what I was thinking.  Thank you

Following! This is gonna be good!

Frame coming soon

Awesome build!

Is the Eaton SC adapter kit from Toolman on Bimmerforums?

In reply to Mykk :

You will likely be disappointed with the Jaguar rear end.  Here’s why. Unless it’s out of a XKE  it most likely is either a 3.07 or a 2.88 and with the tall tires you have, your top speed will approach 160+ mph but acceleration will not be what it could be. 

If it did come out of a XKE then you most likely have a 3.31  which will be better for acceleration. If it came from a mid 60’s then you might have the 3.54 ratio which will be better still.  

There are three different length dog bones, ( the half shafts on each side of the differential) If you’ll give me your center of the u joint  to center distance I’ll tell you which it came out of.  

Either way it will be a positraction and you must add the positraction supplement  to the oil or you will ruin the positraction.  You can buy it at most auto parts stores or from GM dealers. 

Gear ratio ID tag:

I've verified that it is a 3.31:1 gear ratio by turning over by hand, it's also an open diff. Which I don't mind in a lightweight application that will have wide rear tires and skinny fronts.

In reply to Mykk : Excellant, you’ll still have impressive top speed   While with that light a ride impressive acceleration.  

Frame day:

With the frame mocked sitting on the rear end it sets the rear ride height too high. The rear end will be pulled forward and will but tucked higher into the frame

In reply to Mykk :

You have three choices on what to do with the trailing arm for the rear end. 

If you copy the factory the trailing arm  and rear end must be rubber mounted because of the conflict between the swing of the arch  of the axle and the swing of the arch of the trailing arm.  The consequence is the ride will be smoother but a little less precise.  

The race cars use a link that aligns the inner pivot with a pickup at about 45 degrees instead of straight forward like the production cars. Then the whole assembly can be rigidly mounted. 

Hot rodders will weld two bars on each side of the wishbones to keep  them from flexing under acceleration and braking.  Then the whole assembly can also be rigidly mounted. 

One other point. The stock pivot points use needle bearings. 

Don’t do that!  All of the load concentrates  on one or two needles and quickly wear out.  Far better to replace everything with one brass bushing drilled for a grease fitting.  I can make quick work of it on a small cheap bench top lathe I picked up. In the past  I had a local guy do it and his prices were cheaper than buying Jaguar parts, by a lot! 

I have been thinking of what to use for rear radius arms. I am looking into hot rod parts companies to see what's available