Mandatory shot after pulling the engine!
Mandatory shot after pulling the engine!
So I bought a remanufactured head from eBay for U$233. Should arrive next week. Decision time: do I dig deeper into the motor while I have it out and check the cylinder walls, tings and bottom end or do I slap the head on and get it to run under its own power?
can I reuse the head gasket? Or should I replace it?
thanks in advance for any and all advice!
This build is coming along nicely. I absolutely love the wheels. A fiero has been on my bucket list for a long time. Im enjoying following along. Thanks for sharing the updates.
new gasket, run a cyl. down to the bottom of the bore run your fingernail around the sides if it dosn't catch your nail your good if it does post a picture
New cylinder head has arrived along with a new head gasket. I’m way behind schedule to make the Challenge so do I keep tearing into the motor to check out the bottom end and deglaze the cylinders or just slap it all back together?
if I pull the motor I can notch the cradle so the timing chain cover can be removed without having to shift the motor.
in any event I need to stub this puppy clean.
Looks like the $2018 Challenge isn’t happening. I just haven’t had time to work on it. Lots of excuses, some better than others, but at the end of the day I didn't drag myself into the garage during the spare moments I did have.
I do need to get it in gear as winter is coming and my wife will want her side of the garage back. Good incentive to get the motor reassembled and back in the Fiero.
In reply to exST165 :
Sorry to hear but yes wives have a way of motivating husbands.
Trying to separate the engine from the transmission and cradle. I must have missed one bolt somewhere.
Happy Thanksgiving to all my fellow Canadians, and happy Columbus Day to those of you who are to the south!
False alarm, I got all the bolts out it is separated. Tomorrow being a holiday I should have time to get the engine up on the stand.
Apologies I never answered you GTXVette, fingernails don’t catch anywhere on the cylinder walls. I bought a deglazing tool in my last Rock Auto order and I’m now wondering if I can just skip honing and new rings and instead just leave the pistons in.
edit: I put pictures of the cylinder walls up on page 2
Try to get all the carbon off and litely scrub the top of the block ,hone what you can of the bores and put it together. But WINTER, Pull the bottom end down and put in new bearings/ rings. IF NOT PULLING APART CLEAN WITH KEROSENE/GAS , CHANGE THE OIL, LOL use lots of spray copper coat on the head / block, both sides of head gasket.
So I finally got the motor up on the stand.
Worst case scenario I can roll the cradle back under the Fiero and roll the engine in front of my work bench to get my wife’s car into the garage for winter.
Now what does the hive mind say about this clutch? Replace?
Should I replace the release bearing while I’m in there too?
I have re installed worse, scrape out the groove's they trap dust, get some course paper or a scotch brite pad and clean the Flywheel face, only where contact is made.
Look on Pennocks Fiero Forum and see what the current choice of clutch MFG. are or pick up your latest copy of GRASSROOTS, AND SEE WHO IS SUPPORTING US.
alway's replace the T O bearing . on a Fiero the bushing that is in the trans. case, the arm that is for T O movement wear's and if ANY Wiggle. REPLACE, IT'S A BRASS BUSHING CAN BE DRIVEN OUT AND IN at home.
GTXVette, this isn’t a Fiero transmission, it came from a 1990 Beretta with the Quad4 engine so the clutch arm uses needle bearings not brass. But it is kinda sticky so I need to look at them but thanks for the heads up or I wouldn’t have looked.
I’ve been Googling for a replacement clutch slave cylinder that has a bleed screw so I can bleed the system and get some fresh fluid in there. Does the hive mind have any thoughts?
again this isn’t a Fiero transmission, the transmission and engine came from a 1990 Beretta.
Thanks in advance,
Thomas
In reply to exST165 :
Is your goal to drive or trailer this to the challenge in 2019?
Hopefully there will be two Canadian teams for 2019 and you are only about an hour down the road.
Pete
Rodney Dickerson Fiero parts his have dual seal piston or rebuild with Toyota piston
At this point the goal is to trailer it down. Not that I have a trailer or a tow vehicle, but my vision is to strip every nut and bolt off the car that isn’t needed to compete. Obvious downside of not being able to do any shake down drives on the street.
NoHome are you going to attend next year?
exST165 said:Obvious downside of not being able to do any shake down drives on the street.
Don't forget Toronto Motorsports park an hour away, they're open all year if the track is clear. Not a lot of people show up on the cooler days so you can get an open track to yourself.
Adam
Adam, thanks for that head’s up!
In reply to exST165 :
That is the plan. Going for the low effort effort with a 760 Volvo that already had a 302 when I bought it. Plan is to drive and maybe even arrive!
Link to the build thread, such as it is. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/project-bucket-list-volvo-content/143853/page1/
Pete
Update: I pulled the oil pan and found this amazing jello like substance. If I understand it correctly this is expected from getting coolant in the oil. The good news is that there were no shiny bits or metallic flakes in the mix, just oil like stuff.
I’m trying to contain scope creep here so I really don’t want to tear more into this than I have to. So I pulled off one rod end cap that I could get at without taking off the windage tray and oil pump. Much easier said than done when you only have 6 point sockets and the end caps have 12 point nuts! Off to Princess Auto this morning!
I think the crank looks good!
The bearing looks good but there are a couple if scratches in it:
So how questionable is that bearing? Should it be replaced or are those scratches accept? My thinking is that they were all exposed to coolant equally so if one was trashed they are all going to be trashed and vice versa. If that one that I’ve pulled apart is acceptable then part of me is happy to call them all good and start reassembling as I have a lot of work to do to get a car that can move under its own power.
Thoughts?
Only because Rod Bearings are So Cheep, But really cleaning them and just Touch them with a Scotch brite pad inOppisite direction of rotation. Just get new bearings Really can't hurt.
exST165 said:Mandatory shot after pulling the engine!
Wow, the group is slipping here. Not a single "loose nut/frozen nut in the engine bay" comment! Glad I could help change that.
Point of reference, the only other rod bearings (yes plural) I’ve handled: from my $2008 Challenge Celica Alltrac. Compared to these my Quad4 is factory new!
Funny story about those bearings: the other Tom in Frozen Nuts Racing pulled them from our Alltrac in the parking lot at Gainesville the morning of the drag race. He hands them to me and I am about to hand him the new replacements when I say “they sold us the wrong bearings! The new ones don’t have the flange!”
You can guess Tom C’s reaction ...
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