There was a motor home on CR last week for $400 with a 400 SBC in it. No link it's gone now.
So, since I need to get the motor into the shop, of course one of the reconkids lost the key to the padlock...
This led to me standing outside, staring at the motor as it sits in the back of the Covered Wagon, thinking about it whilst having a cup of coffee. I've got a set of vortec heads for it, time to do some research...
It turns out that with a very few modifications, and a good cam, you can get deep into 400 lb-ft territory on a 400 without even porting the Vortecs... it's almost impossible for me to describe the excitement I feel when I contemplate the sheer potential this motor has. I've settled on looking for a late '70s to early '80s El Camino as the lucky recipient of this wonderful lump of iron, and I'll start shopping more seriously when I get the motor built. For now, all discretionary funds will go to the 400. I've a feeling tires will be begging for mercy once I'm done.
Steam Holes ? LARGE Journal Crankshaft, ? Different Flex plate/flywheel+ Harmonic Balancer,? Shorter Rods, I think thats about it, the 2 bolt block is supposed to be stronger but I never saw a broken web in a 4 bolt. great engine to build Just keep these things in mind. Racing rules require a 4" bore /.030 to keep people from using them with a short throw crank and stuffing HUGE Valves in them. When I was at Chevy Hi Performance forum we did a dyno-jet build with 180cc port heads 3.25 crank and it made well over 600hp, 357 CI.
MIGHTY MOUSE build, sorry I can't link it.
In reply to GTXVette : Not really planning on racing, more of a daily/hot rod build. I might do some passes at the drag strip, but mainly want something for fun.
for ease of mods and damn cool look, I vote for a late 80's / early 90's extended cab 2 WD S-10 short box pick up.
that 400 will slide right in, get rid of any "don't need" crap, throw away all of the inside of the box, using the front wall, the tailgate and both outer box sides, add tonneau cover to hide fuel cell at the rear and 335 x 19" rubber all the way around, with a hideous big wing or spoiler. The extended cab for comfortable leg room.
Don't choke it down with Vortecs, All the real power will come with the heads, 180 to 200 cc ports but no more for street use. Matter of fact stay with 180's, find some world, -brodie's, even edelbrocks, you want at least 2.02 intake valves, and pistons for 10 to 1 and around .500 lift cam .488 works well. dual plane intake 650 cfm carb.
OldDave said:for ease of mods and damn cool look, I vote for a late 80's / early 90's extended cab 2 WD S-10 short box pick up.
that 400 will slide right in, get rid of any "don't need" crap, throw away all of the inside of the box, using the front wall, the tailgate and both outer box sides, add tonneau cover to hide fuel cell at the rear and 335 x 19" rubber all the way around, with a hideous big wing or spoiler. The extended cab for comfortable leg room.
This. One change. 4x4 s10/Blazer. Add AWD transfer case from an astro van. Mostly it's a bolt it right up and use a hammer to massage the floor pan kind of swap. See because then you can spin more than just two tires.
See because when you spin more than Two Tires you breake twice as many Parts, Lol But go for it I loved my 99 Blazer and often thought of a V-8
GTXVette said:Don't choke it down with Vortecs, All the real power will come with the heads, 180 to 200 cc ports but no more for street use. Matter of fact stay with 180's, find some world, -brodie's, even edelbrocks, you want at least 2.02 intake valves, and pistons for 10 to 1 and around .500 lift cam .488 works well. dual plane intake 650 cfm carb.
Normally, I'd agree with you. But- I already have vortec heads, so I'm gonna use them, because GRM. With mild porting, the 400 will still be pushing 500 lb-ft of torque, so I'm gonna use the money I save on heads to beef up the drivetrain.
I truly, honestly, do appreciate all the input. You guys are great!
When you US guys are speaking Chevette, that is basically an Opel Kadett City, right?
If so, that car is brilliant with a BMW M60B40 V8.
https://www.youtube.com/embed/ZNObcurtGYI
So if that works, a SBC 400 should surely work as well, I think. Volvo 240 rear axle with a torque arm, coilovers on the standard front suspension. A friend of mine built the car above.
Gustaf
Got the engine on a stand, and proceeded to attack it with a handful of wrenches and a mallet. I now have a bare block in my shop, tomorrow, I begin de-gunking it.
Recon1342 said:Got the engine on a stand, and proceeded to attack it with a handful of wrenches and a mallet. I now have a bare block in my shop, tomorrow, I begin de-gunking it.
This is by far my favorite part of any engine rebuild. It's when I always start to feel like i'm making real progress, but before I start to worry that I put something together wrong and disaster is imminent.
The 400 is quite the motor. My son has one in a Monte SS. Kind of a mystery motor, don't know what's in it. He traded a Fox body for it. Any way, changed fluids, checked the brakes, checked air pressure in tires, went drag racing. Turned consistent 12.90's, with one in the 12.80's . This on a one leg stock rear.
I began tearing down the donor motor for the vortec heads today. I'm one of those weird people who loves examining failures of the mechanical variety... it's why I am a mechanic. This particular specimen was in a '99 Chevy Suburban that a good friend bought as a mechanic's special. The ad simply stated it made "bad noises" when running, so of course we were curious. Fired it up, and bingo- rod knock. It only had 283,000 miles on it, so it's kind of understandable... we swapped in a crate motor, and away we went to getting his 'Burb in good shape once more.
Fast forward to today, when I finally get to start tearing this thing apart...
So far, I have- 5 holes in the oil pan, one of which is 1"x3" in size; at last count, 10 different pieces of connecting rod, not including bearings and bolts for said rod; oil that is distinctly aluminum colored; and a stuck piston.
After lunch, I'll begin disassembly of the top end and see what all is damaged up top. I love this life!!!
Edit to add- and of course, I am wearing the Ferdinand shirt for all these shenanigans. Anything less would be simply unacceptable...
In reply to Recon1342 :I used to use those ina vintage race car I race prepped for a customer. He wasn't a road racer more of a drag racer who drove on a road race track. He'd putter around the corners and then stand on it.
Eventually built 430 cu inch small blocks for him. Billet crank aluminum heads early Hilborn fuel injection, magneto etc it looked vintage as heck but made 400 horsepower from 2000 to 8000 rpm
Okay, hive mind. Time to make a decision-
I have a 1989 Suburban V1500 as my daily driver. It's in good shape, only 95k miles on it. I'm sitting here, with a small block powered truck, and a small block in the shop that would drop right in.
Hot rod 4x4 overland build?
well, I can't tell you that's a BAD idea! Look up the Chevy military pickup that Dirt Every Day built with a Caddy VSPEC LS crate motor and the portal axles.
In reply to ultraclyde :
That truck got an 8100 big block when it got the portals. Still cool though.
I also support the idea of a the 400 Suburban.
Ooh...that looks cool. I'd love to see more details on it. I've got an '83 Suburban myself.
In reply to ClemSparks :
It’s a 1989 V1500, TBI 350, 700r4 trans, 10 bolt front and rear, manual hubs, 3.73 gears in the axles. When I bought it, it was lifted 4” already. I installed step bars, went from 15” to 16” rims, and put Maxxis Buckshot II mudders on it. It had 91k on the clock when I bought it, with documentation from the previous two owners. I’m the third...
right now, I’m into it for about $600 more than challenge money...
400 is going in the Burb.
Build thread is here-https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/the-covered-wagon-my-89-suburban-overlandcamping-rig-build/133534/page1/
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