Remember, you always start at "NO."
Remember, you always start at "NO."
Some updates, but I won't bore you with the technical stuff. Right now the car is being prepped for a cage. I have the materials here, it just needs cleaned up and some measuring done. I've decided to focus on suspension, brakes, tires, chassis. New wheels/tires are ready to go on, shocks are all done, new brake lines/line lock about to go on, and then cage.
I'm in the process of installing motorcycle shocks on all 4 corners right now. I've experimented with 4 different heights/mounting positions.
These $35 Kawasaki shocks literally bolted in, dropped the car a few inches, made the suspension travel SO much better, and are double adjustable.
Coming up with new ways to go fast for cheap, thats Hot Rodding.
Those bike shocks have enough travel? I have always seen people use them remotely with a cantilever.
They have about 3" of travel. I angled the rears to give me about 4" of suspension travel. in the rear. I'll have to figure out something on the fronts. They're in on all 4 corners and they have a high spring rate, so I'll have to manage for a bit. Getting them in was minimal work, so I don't exactly have to make many changes to undo them.
I have started roll cage mockup. I spent about $40 on conduit and probably have 45 feet left over. Conduit is definitely the way to go for cage mockup. I can get rough bar length measurements, write down my needed angles, and get a feel for the overall design in a couple hours worth of work. I did 90% of a mockup, test fit the rear wing, etc. BIG changes coming throughout the month of April with this car. Hoping to have it out on the streets in May, and then I can get my Nova running and driving again before Summer hits.
I put new tires on the C6 Z06 wheels. Cheap on the front, Cooper Zeon RS3s on the rear. I have like $525 in 4 tires which isn't bad considering the rears are 325/30/19. The factory coating on the wheels was completely shot so I tossed a can of black peel coat on each wheel. They turned out decent. The rears are MUCH wider than the tiny factory wheels.
To help with downforce, I'm installing a 70" carbon fiber rear wing, a carbon fiber front splitter, and some trick active aero for front and rear. I've spun the car out on a busy 4 lane road just tapping the throttle at 60 mph before. Not looking to have that happen again. I'll try to remember to post pics here to keep everything updated. I have some major plans with the engine once the car is running, as well as a MAJOR project going on with the electronics right now but I don't want to get into that yet.
In reply to AwesomeAuto : no comment I just wanted to refresh this so I could easily find it again
Thank you
AwesomeAuto said:My $15.40 meth kit. It sprays very very nicely.
could you list what all you used for the budget friendly meth injection set up? how is it triggered? WOT switch or a pressure switch?
edizzle89 said:AwesomeAuto said:My $15.40 meth kit. It sprays very very nicely.
could you list what all you used for the budget friendly meth injection set up? how is it triggered? WOT switch or a pressure switch?
$30 ebay 12v 100 PSI water pump. I managed to find a seller that sells them with a starting bid of $1, and scored 2 of them for less than $10/each.
The bottle is a random bottle I found from a junkyard. Its only purpose is to hold the fluid so nearly any plastic bottle will do. Find one that fits your vehicle where it needs to fit.
The tubing is hard nylon tubing from Lowes, like $0.15/foot or something really cheap. It fit the fittings PERFECT.
The nozzle I had laying around. I found a $2 brass fitting that allowed me to thread it in and be done. Its basically just a garden misting nozzle, and you can get them online for $6/each. Flow rates are important, so you'll need to watch them more carefully. For a turbo V8, I like a 10 GPH nozzle with 30/70 windshield washer fluid. If I'm spraying 50/50 I'll go as high as 16 GPH.
Spray pattern. Very fine mist.
In reply to AwesomeAuto :
thanks for the info! what do you use to trigger it? i was thinking of getting a pressure switch so it only comes on in boost
edizzle89 said:In reply to AwesomeAuto :
thanks for the info! what do you use to trigger it? i was thinking of getting a pressure switch so it only comes on in boost
$4 eBay Hobbs switch setup for 8 lbs. Same way I trigger it in my Nova.
Fuel system is reinstalled. Upgrading from last year's Single AEM 380 and a MISTAKE of Fasster inline filters, to dual AEM380s, spin-on filters, and a flex fuel sensor on the return. I have several gas stations nearby with E85 available. That'll help when I make the switch to the new engine, and aluminum 5.3 with 10.5:1 compression.
I'm stuck on transmission issues. The TH400 that is in it has started to slip. I have a brand new converter for it, but I don't want to risk putting it into a failing transmission. Someone gave me a stock TH400 converter, but it uses the large bolt pattern, so I have to modify another flexplate and buy a snout adapter to run it. As soon as I get the snout adapter, the engine will be back in (its currently dangling over the front of the car now).
Wow. Just wow. I saw this thread a while back, but just now read through it. Awesome work, and I love all the custom stuff with the paddle shifters and all that. Oh, and the cheap DIY water/meth injection. Awesome, awesome, awesome!
Its alive!
It'll be a little while before its on the road, but E85 tuning starts now.
In reply to AwesomeAuto :
Thanks for the update. Cool trick with the coil overs and active aero. Are the wing struts strong enough?
Love this project keep it up.
In reply to AwesomeAuto : I really enjoy the information you provide. It’s nice to know that a little creative thinking can produce a whole lot of performance at an affordable price.
Wait, I just read the whole thing and I need MORE!
PS, subbed your YouTube channel
Indy-Barely Functional-Guy said:In reply to AwesomeAuto :
Thanks for the update. Cool trick with the coil overs and active aero. Are the wing struts strong enough?
Love this project keep it up.
Yes, they're pretty strong. Everything was made overkill. The tubes holding the wing, along with the heim joints are chromoly. The bolts are grade 8. The actuators were strong enough that they broke all of the tack welds on the tabs holding the levers and actuators to the frame the first time I used them.
frenchyd said:In reply to AwesomeAuto : I really enjoy the information you provide. It’s nice to know that a little creative thinking can produce a whole lot of performance at an affordable price.
The idea here is to start doing regular updates once the car is running to detail how easy and cheap certain things can be done, and how well they work. I'll do a detailed video on the wing/active aero, one on how the coilovers handle and fit, one on the paddle shifters, electric power steering, LS swapping a C4, etc.
I'm fabbing up a front bumper now, and finishing wiring. The rest of the car is good to go. Probably won't be major future updates as far as changes go other than engine management swap from Micro to MS3-Pro, maybe and intake/injector swap, and I want to move around the intercooler, etc. Once its done in a few weeks, I'll post a ton of videos outlining how I did a lot of the things that I did.
That means the next projects will get finished. I have an 80cc 2-stroke powered drift H3 power wheels to finish (75% complete), and a turbocharger based jet-turbine powered Go-kart to finish as well. From there, its a twin turbo 81 Mercury Zephyr I'm building to be the ultimate sleeper. I mean OEM looks/sound with 800 HP.
After that, I plan on toying with a triple blown LQ4 using 3 Gen5 M90 superchargers, and a 34 Chevy pickup rat rod with an 8-turbo big block.
In reply to AwesomeAuto :
Sounds like a lot of fun projects! I know the feeling of trying to knock one out so you can move on. I have plenty to do myself!
AwesomeAuto said:I'm in the process of installing motorcycle shocks on all 4 corners right now. I've experimented with 4 different heights/mounting positions.
These $35 Kawasaki shocks literally bolted in, dropped the car a few inches, made the suspension travel SO much better, and are double adjustable.
Coming up with new ways to go fast for cheap, thats Hot Rodding.
So question, I happen to know that C4 rear shocks with new bushings bolt right in to the back of my 500 Abarth......so what Kawasaki shocks did you use for the rear? I'll be ordering some immediately :)
Thanks for the fairly technical discussion in here and this is a hilarious project, I love it.
11-15 ZX10R shocks. I originally ordered them because they were setup like a traditional aftermarket coilover with an eyelet on top and bottom for mounting.
I went back and ordered the part that bolts to the top eyelet on the shocks (just get the shocks WITH these on ebay, I paid $35/shock). It had a M16 threaded stud on it. I dropped on the original upper shock mount from my C4, secured it with an M16 nut, and bolted them right back into the car.
For my purpose, I just need the eyelets and appropriate sized bushings.
Thanks again for that info.....off to order racecar parts.......
Can't wait for some action videos. Very impressive build
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