So it begins!
I got a lot more than I thought I would've for $300. Basically a whole dropout minus transmission, but got the axles(automatic). Even all the wiring, ECU, everything out of an '02. Tomorrow is the pull of the old engine and prepping the new one.
Made some progress today. Got the old engine out, wiring, intake manifold, header, wiring, and transmission off. When I pulled the intake manifold off, about a half gallon of water came out. Definitely did the damage you see below just off trying to start it. Ugh. Oh well. New engine needs torn down tomorrow, timing belt and water pump put on, and then all the old wiring put on it. Unfortunately, I'm out of cash so unless I can scrounge some from my dad, the clutch and transmission will be waiting to go on this weekend before I drop the new engine into the car. Tomorrow's goal is to get it back on the ground and rolling so I can push it off the lift. Wish I could get it running, but the clutch and throw out bearing are absolutely wasted. Definitely an original clutch and TOB.
Where I finished for the evening.
This one was hiding behind the passenger side axle.
This one was hiding behind the A/C compressor.
Got the F23 stripped down and the flywheel/clutch off the F22. Need a crank pulley removal tool and power steering/alternator belts, as well as a new clutch before it can go back together and back in the car. I have this weekend off so I'll have to finish it then. Not overly happy about it, but what can one do? I should be able to steal my dad's truck until it's done so I'll be alright, I guess.
Ready to drop in! I still need to figure out the correct order for the plug wires, wire VTEC, and find a 96-97 Accord EX ECU so VTEC can be triggered, but the ECU thing isn't a big deal, it'll run just fine on my current non-VTEC ECU.
That engine needs a serious dose of red wrinkle paint. I think it looks so good on hondas.
Wait I changed my mind. It also needs blue wires
Yes. This.
It lives! Its a dog since I still need to wire VTEC and find a VTEC ecu, but I forgot how nice and how well this car drives. Need a longer plug wire for #3 though, since firing order is different. Just happy to be behind the wheel of it again.
So I'm not fluent in Honda, so how is the F23 better than the F22?
F23 has more displacement and makes more power. I'm also assuming his f22 was a non vtec variant so now he has the vtacs. F23 has a better intake manifold.
Good deal
Opti wrote: F23 has more displacement and makes more power. I'm also assuming his f22 was a non vtec variant so now he has the vtacs. F23 has a better intake manifold.
This. The extra 2mm of stroke, 1mm larger bore, better intake manifold(larger runners and a bigger plenum), a MUCH better flowing head(best in the SOHC F-series family as-cast), in addition to the slightly hotter VTEC cam profile all add up.
Took about 4 days of working on it about 4-5 hours a day after work. Not too hard, took all the stuff off my F22B2 and swapped it over to the F23A1. I already was running an F23 intake manifold, so that was a pretty easy swap. Kept the F23A1 water crossover pipe. F22B2 distributor, swapped 1-2 and 3-4 to get it to run. No balance shaft belt. Very easy swap. Reused my clutch disc since it looked good and did a fresh pressure plate and throwout bearing. Did the timing belt and water pump as well, these SOHC engines are ridiculously easy to time correctly. Now I have a spare F23 intake manifold to play with and a bunch of 6th gen parts to sell.
AAAAAAAAAAnd now the the right front wheel bearing is howling. I forgot which side axle nut I couldn't get off, must've been the passenger side I took the propane torch to in an attempt to get the axle out. Now to try to track down the correct wheel bearing/hub. UGH. Pretty sure my rotor over hub conversion is using 98-00 Acura CL hubs/bearings.
Future reference: if you need to take out an engine/transmission from a 90-02 Accord, you don't need to remove the axle from the hub. Remove the lower fork bolt/nut, remove upper ball joint nut, un-bolt caliper and line from knuckle, pull down while prying on axle to remove from case/jackshaft, axle out.
Snagged a P0H ecu this morning, wired it in, and picked up a new wheel bearing and lower ball joint for the passenger side. Good news is it runs flawlessly! Pulls WAY hard from 4800 on up.
I think my brake master is on it's way out though. Been getting a REALLY soft pedal every now and again, going to the floor sometimes. Don't think it's a vacuum issue. When it happens, I can pump the pedal and it gets better. I needed to do the EX master cylinder swap anyway considering the little big brake upgrade in the front.
USUALLY if it will pump up it's air in the lines … could still be a bad master
you know the "standard" test for a master is don't you …. pump it up (if needed) and then hold your foot steady on the brake pedal … then I usually just sorta relax my leg/foot on the pedal a smidgen … then push hard again … do several times … if the pedal goes towards the floor, then it's usually a bad master cylinder
Not running is an inconvenience. Not stopping will kill you.
Swap the master and bleed it while checking out everything else. Dont wanna read about your passing.
Thanks. Tried pumping it while car's off, then turning it on. Pedal softens and sinks, but that's it. Could it just be that the heat from the bad wheel bearing is making the brakes overheat?
with the car off, you're not involving the booster …as soon as you crank the engine, the booster comes into play
you might want to contact angry corvair on here … he's pretty much the go to GRM'er for brakes
Checked the axle nut on the driver side today, discovered it was loose. Tightened it down, brake issues and bearing noise seems to have disappeared.
Obligatory engine bay pic.
Nice swap! If the axle nut was loose, plan on doing the wheel bearing soon. I made this same mistake once and the wheel bearing failed shortly after. It's possible it was a coincidence, but I don't think so since the car in question is known for only needing wheel bearings if you screw something up.
Looks good. It does need some red wrinkle paint.
Maybe black. The red accents on the wheels is enough red for me.
Sorry bro you got outvoted. Red it is.
The Hive has SPOKEN!!!!
I had a 4 cyl manual accord, that was the generation before yours ,cb or something. 2dr, EX, manual, 4 cyl, just like you say to get. It was a miserable, horrible, hateful car. I despised that thing, and routinely played bumper cars with my friends in their beaters. The only thing I wanted it to do was survive long enough for me to get to school while I did the cam swap on the Z28...It didnt. I only paid like 1200 for it so I wasnt too mad when it died.
What im saying is I have a strong prejudice against 4 cyl honda accords from that era, and for some reason I keep checking back in to see how this one is doing. I like fact that you took an normal car and made it quick. Keep it up man.
Don't hate yourself too much. This guy's times are unimpressive, but how simple it is and the power it lays down are great. Not to mention its basically a step by step walkthrough.
http://cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=95154
Keeps throwing a rich code, and definitely running rich at idle-exhaust smells like straight fuel. I figured since the VTEC system of the F22B1 and F23A1 were the same in operation, the fuel trims should be the same. Pretty sure my injectors and everything were still good from before(never threw a rich code previously), but I could be wrong. Gas mileage is still good, so I'm not sure what to think now.
May try putting the o2 sensor in the EX position(more rearward, after the 4-2/2-1 conversion), since it's currently in the LX position in runner #4.
Did a little wrenching today, eBay gaskets are, unsurprisingly, garbage and were leaking. Both the manifold to head and upper to lower manifold gaskets were blown out, leaking, and just plain loud. Threw in my SCE copper gaskets, replaced one broken exhaust manifold stud, and it's WAY quieter now. Gonna have to pull the alternator to drill out the final broken stud since it's below flush.
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