In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
What PCM and OS are you running? I have a bench tuner and OBDlink SX cable we could load a Sloppy Cabinet tune on and see if that improves things. The terminator is good but I don't know if it is worth it for a NA build. I've considered going to a stock PCM on my truck and saving the Terminator X Max for a full drag car build.
In reply to RacetruckRon :
That would be awesome. Does it make sense for me to just ship you my PCM with a return label? It's a 411 pcm.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
Yeah shoot me a PM here or on the bookface. Lets get that thing moving before the salt hits the roads.
Patron Saint RacetruckRon has been tuning on my PCM for me. Looks like we (he) is getting close to sorting out the mess of a tune I had originally - which turned out to not be a tune at all. I have confidence this thing will be a ripper when he's done.
With the truck non op, I've been able to get some other small items tackled. Will try to give an update this weekend.
A few updates. While the truck was down, I decided to pull the front bumper apart and paint it black. Looks 100x better.
The truck has had a power steering leak since I swapped it. I thought I'd cured it by getting that fancy new high pressure line but it turns out it was leaking past the stock seals at the rack. They were hard plastic and flat.
Got that all back together with FLAPS orings and it cured the leak - at least while it was sitting. More on that later.
On Tuesday, I got a special package with a freshly flashed PCM with a custom tune.
Got the power steering bled and the truck runs 100x better with the new tune. I can't thank RacetruckRon enough!
Last night, we needed tables picked up from the neighbors and I reminded the truck that it was in fact a truck capable of truck things.
What's next? Well for one, I still have a power steering whine. I'm really frustrated by it. It has been there since I got the truck running. Brand new PS pump but maybe it's bad? Anyone have tips for bleeding a stock LS truck pump?
In my experience, power steering pumps are the things most likely to be bad out of the box, especially rebuilds. My coworker once went through four(!) pumps on a customers outback before getting fed up and putting an OEM junkyard unit on. Not saying that's guaranteed to be what's happening here, but worth looking into I think.
In reply to orthoxstice :
To piggyback off this, I long ago gave up on 90% of remanufactured parts and the companies that make them. OEM for the majority of my parts and I haven't been happier.
Again, not sure if that's the issue, just a thought.
Is the PS whine constant or only when getting close to full lock on the wheel? All three of my LS powered trucks the PS whines a little bit at full lock. I also run ATF in my pumps since too of them are hydroboost systems and those seem to like ATF over standard PS fluid
Pump is an Oreilly-zone rebuilt special, so it could be bad out of the gate. I'll have to see if I have a warranty or just go get a yard unit. The problem is you have to remove the pulley to remove the pump and you have to tread an install tool into the snout to get the pulley on. Up here the threads are all rusted out.
Ryan - the pump whines when the truck heats up. Gets progressively louder until I'm waiting for something to blow. I haven't driven the truck far due to this whine.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
Is it possible that it needs a cooler in the low pressure return line?
In the past I have had to put a cooler in so the fluid gets a chance to "decompress" and this addressed a few whiney pump conditions
I'm late to the thread and enjoying it. I apologize for this being a bit off topic but I've never understood how GM got away with a product that rusted like that. Get a Toyota and they own the problem. Frame replacement. Get a GM and "...um they all do that". I hate to sound all Ralph Nader but that's a faulty product. Dad had a '00 S10 that had the spring hanger let go one day just sitting in the driveway. We never suspected anything was wrong because the body was still clean! Had that happened on the road, someone could have gotten hurt.
Now I'm not sure on the power steering pump whine. Seems to be limited to low speed. Going to bleed it again and see what happens. In the meantime, driveway idle again because the truck is running right.
Running right, eh? How about that burnout...
In reply to nsogiba :
I hear burnouts help bleed power steering systems.
I have destroyed many many expensive drivetrain parts doing burnouts.
I'd suggest not.
Burnout attempted that ended with violent wheel hop.
Took the truck out for a thrash a few nights ago and this thing reminded me it's still a stock suspension truck. It needs an 8.8 rear, cal tracs, new suspension, frame notch.
Putting it down for the winter and my automotive ADD is kicking in. This thing needs thousands of dollars to be properly enjoyed and I'm considering sending it down the road for profit since everyone is bonkers over LS swapped anything's right now. We'll see what this winter brings.
Thanks for watching. Do it for Dale.
Had really gotten frustrated with this thing after driving it around. Then I realized I added 200lbs to the nose of a 237k mile suspension made for a 4 cylinder. I'm planning suspension, wheels, and a Dana 44 rear. Big updates coming this winter. Stay tuned.
And cal tracs. Which as we know, makes the world better.
Today was the U Pull & Pay Black Friday sale. All you could drag/pull/carry for $50. I seen some things let me tell you. Whole 6.0/4l80e combos in a wheelbarrow.
This was my score. Dana 44 from a Isuzu Rodeo that won't need narrower and will let me keep the stock 6-log pattern wheels. Also go some 17" wheels from a Tahoe. I struck out on most of my for profit parts but they did have a sweet sportcombi wagon. Another entrepreneur had taken the tail lights (which sale for $200 on evilbay) but I did snag the cargo cover which will fetch a few pesos.
Cal tracs are a dirt cheap way to get some traction and reduce wheel hop. I wonder if you can adapt them to the current axle and then swap over to the D44 when it's time.
Don't sell it. You're coming off a long stretch of a swap project which is enough to drain anyone in terms of hours and dollars. Give it a little while and chip away at the small items. Now that it's running, any improvements you make will go a long way towards making the truck fun to drive and will provide instant gratification.
In reply to Scotty Con Queso :
but the fullsize and colorado are different bolt patterns. How are you rectifying that?
In reply to nsogiba :
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I agree. Not going to sell. I am taking it off the road until spring so I can get in some winter wrenching.
In reply to bobzilla :
Full-size and gen1 Colorado have the same bolt pattern. It's the hub size that is different. So staying with the sloppy theme, I'll have to use a router to increase the bore size of those wheels. The Colorado guys have been doing this for many years.
Color me jealous with the cheapness of LS-based motors out there! Even with shipping it would still be cheaper than anything down here in TX. But I think even attempting to pull a motor from a yard and then rebuilding it as needed would be equally as cheap.
For additional words of encouragement, I'm going to add that you've got this in the bag! Regroup in the Winter and make some progress. Sometimes we have to step away, even unwillingly. I'm kind of in that scenario myself.
Just read through most of this since I'm looking at an LS/AR5 swap as a possibility. Thanks for sharing.
You'll need to log in to post.
