Nice fiberglass work!
Nice fiberglass work!
Firewall is almost done. After five weekday evenings in the garage (no time this past weekend) you can see the three panel openings taking shape. I glassed in some plywood on the sides of the upper opening to provide something to bolt the panel to. I will do one more set of layers on the electronics box and the middle body mounts before moving to the rear body mounts. I am laying down 4 or 5 layers of 1.5oz CSM at a time, and mixing 4oz batches of resin in small disposable measuring cups. I am using a big box of cheap 1" painters brushes. At the end of a night I just toss the brush, cup, and gloves. I bought fiberglass rollers but find the brushes to work better for this thin mat. The rollers I think are for woven cloth but I'm only using CSM.
Let's recall where I started...
The large upper panel will be thru-bolted for strength, but for the small lower panels I am trying rivnuts coated in JB weld. The rear of these panels is not as accessible.
The panels are harvested from high quality 3/16" aluminum. Let's just say they used to be...reflective...and came with extra mounting holes. Experimenting with some stick-on foam gasket. For the upper panel I may use an edge-mount trunk weatherstrip seal from the junkyard, or just RTV it. I shouldn't have to remove the upper panel as often as the lower ones.
I think this will add a lot of stiffness, safety, and look pretty decent.
I pick up the rental trailer in 16 days, and haven't even driven this car yet. Starting to panic. It should be ready for a shakedown drive once the firewall is done, the electronics and harness mounted securely in the enclosure, and the rear body mount fiberglass'ed and bolted to the frame. Everything else is icing on the cake. Luckily I have two full weekends ahead dedicated to this build.
maschinenbau said:
I pick up the rental trailer in 16 days, and haven't even driven this car yet. Starting to panic.
yeah, I get that.
As per your usual, your attention to detail and quality of 'Thrash-time' craftsmanship is excellent! I bet this thing is gonna be a hoot.
If you run out of measuring cups, I buy dixie cups by the box for those small batches of resin. Bonus is that they are stacked nicely together so they don't get dusty in the shop.
I am super impressed with your work on this thing! Look forward to seeing it at the Challenge.
You're doing great, man! Power through!
How is working on this from only one side? I want to install my body on the chassis before addressing the "firewall" so the body is in agreement with the chassis....of course then my engine will be in the way and I want this TCST to move under its own power this year so firewall is not high on the list...
In reply to TurboFource :
It would be ideal to have access from the engine side. It was a big pain trying to sand fiberglass with my head sticking through that hole, respirator and all. Dabbing the resin into the mat was also difficult in that area, so the quality and strength was probably compromised.
Thanks everyone. I'm newly invigorated knowing I should have the same weight:power ratio as a Challenger Hellcat. 268hp and 1758 lbs.
My car goes on the scales this weekend, after final suspension adjustments... They will probably be similar power to weight.
In reply to stafford1500 :
Um we're gonna need more details. That's a lot of power added or a lot of weight chopped out...or both.
Man that is going to be a rocket. Your only 200lbs more then the LMP360 but 100 more HP.
Can I drive an autox run?
Incredible progress! I just saw a killer looking Europa on ebay and thought I'd link it here for inspiration.
In reply to dyintorace :
$52,000??? 
450 hp in a 1900 lb package??
That's nuts!
I drilled two massive holes in my freshly made fiberglass electronics box and reused the Toyota harness passthrough grommets. I had to slice the grommets in order to relocate them on the harness, but combined with drain holes on the floor, should keep the computers happy and dry.
Boring out the passthrough holes gave me an opportunity to inspect my fiberglass quality. Pretty satisfied with it!
I also made a multi-use bracket that mounts the kill switch and also the center console.
The wiring system is starting to look very simple. I still need a small fuse block, switch panel, and relays for the chassis wiring, which will tee off the switched side of the kill switch.
The engine noise is much more pleasant with the panels in place. Can barely hear the rattling alternator pulley noise!
I also turned a shifter knob out of some delrin rod.
Debating on where to mount the Toyota gauge cluster. It's only useful for fuel level and RPM. Somehow I lost the coolant temp and oil pressure switch signals, which are run to the cluster via a network system similar to CAN. So it's not straightforward to add them back. I will probably direct-wire the oil switch to a light on the dash, and monitor coolant temp through my OBD phone app. So the cluster doesn't need to be front and center...might hang it under the dash on passenger side. Otherwise, ignorance is bliss!
Moving along to the rear of the body, which is still supported by a jack stand. This is the last major fiberglass project before a test drive. So let's finish mounting this body.
There's actually a large empty volume behind the engine. Could fit a decent trunk.
First I trimmed more fiberglass out and sanded all the edges. I beveled as best I could, but the plan is to sandwich the OG material with new stuff.
As before, it's just like building a concrete form but with fiberboard and packing tape. After the first set of layers, the forms are pulled away so I can layer both sides. I covered the frame tubes with packing tape too.
Since the other body bolts were already tight, I couldn't lift the body off high enough to remove the packing tape from the frame. Meh, I'll just leave it there. Then it's just two simple 3/8" holes and bolts.
Looking rearward from the wheelwell.
It passes the "sit on the fender and bounce" test. Body fully mounted to frame. Don't need that jack stand anymore.
Cant wait to see this thing!
Yes, this has been a lot of fun to watch!
Plenty of room to roast a pig back there in the trunk.
The thrash is on. Hitting it hard every night, barely stopping to take pictures. I am hoping for a test drive on Friday, with a fully wired chassis including switch panel, lights and signals. Currently in talks with my insurance provider to get it covered. I'd like to wear a license plate at the Challenge just to flex on the other crazy builds.
Radiator fans mounted. I wanted to reuse the Toyota ones but they're too big, so I bought some cheapo 10" generic fans. They seem powerful enough. This picture from Monday is already old because now the entire nose section is properly wired and bundled.
Unfortunately the front-tilt hood catches on the fans, so I cut a large ugly hole for clearance. If I have time, an OjaiM5-style hood duct is on the list, otherwise a big gaping hole will have to do. I realllly want to do some custom fiberglass bodywork before the Challenge but time is running out quickly.
Drawing from OjaiM5 for reference
The switch panel is 50% built, which I am trying to integrate the Toyota ignition tumbler. Fuse panel and relays are screwed directly to the dashboard and actually looks kinda cool in a vintage racecar way. Headlights, front signals, and rad fans are completely wired, and the tailights are connectorized. I've been using generic weatherpack connectors for the chassis wiring. There is a plan for brake light switch. New seat belts are installed. Once the tail light wires are run through the firewall panel behind the seat, I can reinstall the seat and...drive it?
In reply to maschinenbau :
integration is where it's at. make that E36 M3 seamless!
and thanks for mentioning belts. my car is from the era of lap belts only so, unless i'm misunderstanding something, i have to add shoulder belts or a harness bar? Somehow that didn't make it onto my task list.
In reply to maschinenbau :
also, PM sent. Please check ASAP.
The Lotus OE was 3-point non-retractables, so I replaced them with fresh new ones from Wesco. I'm very happy with the OE-like quality (or probably better than OE, in the case of a Lotus). If your model was later equipped with 3-point belts, I would try to install those, especially if you plan to drive on the street.
maschinenbau said:If your model was later equipped with 3-point belts, I would try to install those, especially if you plan to drive on the street.
Shoulder belts were optional in Corvairs starting in 1966, maybe 1965. IDK if all bodies would have the anchor points. I've never seen them in real life but i know they're out there.
i have the 3-point belts from the 94 corvette, which i was going to integrate. not sure at this point, probably quicker/easier to drop in a harness bar.
You seem more than capable to weld in the upper anchor point. I have a bag of 7/16-20 weld-nuts I've used on my hot rod (with Volvo seat belts) and this Lotus when doing frame rust repair. All OEM seat belts since their invention use 7/16-20. I'm happy to ship some to you, or you can get them quickly from McMaster. Seatbelt attachment hardware is free in budget.
Awesome progress! And that drawing is fantastic! Who is OjaiM5 ?
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