Lot of work done yesterday. Got the bbk installed and bled. Motor mounts, sway bar bushings and the upper rad hose this morning.
New:
old:
Lot of work done yesterday. Got the bbk installed and bled. Motor mounts, sway bar bushings and the upper rad hose this morning.
New:
old:
With the real wheels:
Also, anyone need tib calipers/pads and rotors with hoses?
w00t, awesomeness!
Need to bleed these a little better, it's a little spongy this morning but I still have to put the rear hoses on. Once you're past the soft bits the car stops hard enough the iPhone thinks I picked it up and lights the screen.
Engine mounts made a massive difference. The shifter doesn't bind now, you no longer feel the physical motion of the engine when letting out the clutch. The rear mount had 2 of the 4 spokes torn in two. The front was just loose by design(?). So I made a bushing to take up the space in it. I can no longer move the engine by hand so yay!
Last is to find all the little oil leaks. It looks like there are a few. OK, not the last.... but for the engine thats the last
It's turning into a proper car. Nice.
Seal up one leak, another one pops up. Looks like this weekend I will have to crossover pipe and reseal the whole damn thing.
Latest round of parts arriving this week. The remaining wheel bearing/hubs, ARP wheel studs, lug nuts. Got me thinking about the last main expense: Tires.
So I'm planning on 245/40/17's, I would CONSIDER 235/40 but prefer the 245. I know what Tim prefers (Continental Extremecontact Sport). I keep looking at those damn Firestones though..... they seem like they could be right as well. 3500 road miles and 8-10 track type events are the reqirements and MUST come from Tire Rack. What am I missing? Maybe the new Kumho?
don't do the firestones... super meh.
i'm a fan of the Conti ECS' as well...
if you bring out the bigger bucks, go with the PS4S
In reply to apexanimal :
Even though the wife is in "Just buy what you need mode" I'm not really made of PS4S money.
bobzilla said:In reply to apexanimal :
Even though the wife is in "Just buy what you need mode" I'm not really made of PS4S money.
Yeah, I think those are overkill. I also think we'll be south enough of this year that going towards 200tw instead of 340 Conti's might be worth the gamble. Even though it might put us a bit behind out of the gate after the wet skidpad.
there's still rampant speculation that Falken has something in the pipe... but who knows if it will be out in time?
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
The current RT-615K is available in 235/40.... I really enjoy that tire more than I should. Others available in the 245/40 are the Toyo R1R, Dunlop ZIII, RE71 and the Rival S and the V720. I've driven on all but the ZIII. I did some driving in subies on the older ZII. My heart tugs towards the Kumho (something about symmetry with a Korean car on Korean tires), but I know nothing about the new V720 other than "they're not as fast as the RE71"
In reply to sleepyhead the buffalo :
yonkers and i have been talking about the same gamble... no decision here yet.
i've heard a fair bit of inside baseball about the falkens, but no word about release dates... regardless, i feel like data and feedback on how tires do in damp/wet conditions always lags behind the dry reviews for several months. I don't think that'll be our horse for the oloa... gltc on the other hand...
you do not want the v720 - period. if they're not the viper size they're crap, and if they are they wear very quickly (albeit have the best grip of any 200tw out there).
Lots of work done with help today. Rear is done. Suspension back in, new hubs with ARP studs, front bearing and hub, right axle and tie rods Right front corner buttoned up as well. Drivers axle is stuck in the diff. Refuses to come out.
just will not pop loose.
Also pulled all the rear lining and floors. Close to 30lbs and I haven't touched the seat backs yet.
got to figure out what I'm going to do with the axle.
On the snaab it was the same with stuck axle. I eventually cinched around the inner cv cup with a ratchet strap then tied the other end of the strap to a 10 pound sledge and took whacks away from the car like i was trying to knock a house over and it finally popped loose
In reply to Patrick :
Genius! I hope/don't hope I have a chance to use that method
That's a great idea. When I'm not as broken I might give it a try.
Tonight I try Patrick's plan and hope it works.
bobzilla said:Tonight I try Patrick's plan and hope it works.
FB live that E36 M3, I want to see the carnage!
Didn't work. Snapped two straps with a 8kb sledge.
In reply to bobzilla :
Damn :(
Clean up that tulip and weld a long piece of tubing to it; looks like a straight shot. Use the tubing to build a slide hammer.
I take it you're tried the block of wood on the trans and prybar plus hammer approach?
Also can you tap it in at all? Maybe the circlip is wedged funny and releasing it would help.
gumby said:Clean up that tulip and weld a long piece of tubing to it; looks like a straight shot. Use the tubing to build a slide hammer.
Chris is dropping off an adapter he has for his bigger slide hammer tomorrow. Probably won't get to it soon anyway as Sunday I fly out for hotlanta and won't be home until weds.
Are you sure there isn't a circlip holding it in that has to be released? I ran into that on my mom's Aries K wagon many moons ago.
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