In reply to pres589:
Yeah the front has a lot of options- the SN95 axle would be fine but the explorer and others already have leaf spring pads on them, the mustangs were coil spring cars so there is a lot more gunk to cut off before making it usable.
I actually have a rear end that would suit my needs, but I'm hung up on the stupid ass ball & trunnion trans yoke. I want that gone before I spend time and effort putting a new rear end in it.
In reply to Gunchsta:
All this on a hunch, have you actually checked to see if the driveshaft length will change?
The thing about the SN95 rear that some others do not offer is the width is pretty good for a lot of cars and they didn't come with an offset center section. Understood about having to do some metal work to adapt to your car and its rear suspension. What rear are you thinking of using instead?
In reply to tuna55:
It's an educated hunch based on what I've read and what I roughly measured with the two rear ends. There may be enough slack in the ball & trunnion that I can eek the rear end in there and get away with it. But again- I feel this is an issue that is going to need to be addressed if and when any one of the aforementioned components fails.
This is all hearsay anyway because the fact of the matter is the car HAS brakes that work, as well as all other components so none of this specifically needs to happen. I'm looking very big picture here at potentials for failure down the road vs. my investment in said car around those components.
In reply to pres589:
I have an 8.25 out of a later Dart that should work pending some possible driveshaft length changes. Otherwise the 8.8 out of explorers is supposed to work once one axle tube is narrowed. The offset center section isn't a huge deal one way or another.
Gunchsta wrote: In reply to tuna55: The hub flanges on the mopar 7.25 are too small to re-drill to 4.5" from what I understand. And I agree with wheels and brakes regardless of engine, but in this instance they're all intertwined as I see it.
Correct - you can't redrill the axle flanges on a small bolt pattern 7 1/4" rear. I tried having that done myself. There is a large bolt pattern A-body 7 1/4" rear available. I put one in my Dart before the turbo entered the picture. Now I've got an 8 3/4" Sure-Grip that I plan to put in there. There are some Ford options that are likely to fit too. That 7 1/4" is likely living on borrowed time.
If you do make a custom driveshaft and end up switching to a different transmission, it won't be all that costly to put a different U-joint on the front later. For that matter, you could probably just put a later 904 tailshaft on your existing transmission - I think that part just bolts on and swaps out.
One thing I definitely wouldn't do would be welding the diff on a 7 1/4".
Gunchsta wrote: In reply to APEowner: All of my googling says that was later- the early stuff apparently all used the same K frame.
Oh good.
In reply to MadScientistMatt:
OK, sounds like there are some easy remedies, including just the later axles.
In reply to MadScientistMatt:
Sounds like the trans has to come apart to get the slip yoke style front joint.
A simple conversion U-joint (ie; From an earlier cap size to a later cap size 1310 to 1330 on a gm for example) is no problem, but that also involves a fixed length driveshaft. What I would be having custom made is a driveshaft with a slip joint built into it, which I'm not sure but I imagine that would wreak havoc on a driveline if it was used with a slip yoke at the trans as well. So much so that I think the driveshaft could conceivably fall out were it properly persuaded.
As for the tailshaft it sounds like a slip-yoke push button tailshaft for a 904 is a 1965 only piece and also requires changing the output shaft of the trans itself, not just the outer tailshaft.
How about converting to a 4 speed manual trans, and a super charger for the current engine. There must be some used superchargers out on E-bay....
In reply to TED_fiestaHP:
An eaton m90 or whatever they put on the fwd 3.8 gms has crossed my mind. Although packaging wise I'm not sure where I would put it.
You could always weld the collapsing sections in the driveshaft when that time comes.
Or, buy/build another shaft.
In reply to Dusterbd13:
I suppose that's a possibility. And I guess in all reality when it came to the new shaft it could pretty easily be made from anything if it was a standard slip yoke shaft. A friend and myself made the last one for my Nova from caprice parts with conversion U joints.
TLDR of the last 2 pages
Gunchsta: the sky is falling!!
GRM: not exactly
Gunchsta: But I think the sky might fall someday!
GRM: Yeah well... cover your head when it does
Well the exhaust would be more out of the way, is there a header available for these, or would that have to be made. A V-8 is just so common, while the turbo 6 is just really different, and you did it on a very limited budget. Which makes the rest of us thing we can do something similar, "how hard can it be"... I bet the v-6 super charger would fit, if you can find one.
The eaton units are popular for the 300i6 ford if you look around fordsix. The packaging always looks funny to me.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP:
I'm taking what you said as a compliment and I appreciate it. It can be done very easily, and honestly never failed. The only reason the car is apart right now is I was tired of the oil consumption and wanted to do what I thought was the "right" thing (IE: carbon seal the turbo) based on what research I'd done.
Builds like yours inspire the rest of us. You took a idea and made it work, hey this just might work... One way to find out, build it.... I am still sorting out how to get the strut inserts to fit and work on the front of my fiat coupe, almost there. The Honda has been a slight distraction, that sure ran great this weekend... I like how you kept it fairly simple, no electronics, just simple old school stuff.
In reply to TED_fiestaHP:
Thanks man. I also enjoy the relative simplicity of it- however with the seal issue it's starting to get more complicated. Or expensive- there is a company out there that will build me the appropriate turbo but it's more $$$ than I want to spend at present.
For personal reference here's the part number for the spicer yoke/flange adapter if I decide to make a collapsible driveshaft out of some 4x4 stuff
Spicer 2-2-349
This will allow my tailshaft flange to stay the same and use a 1310 U-joint with some kind of telescoping/collapsible driveshaft.
So this part exists. Now if a Jeep driveshaft was long enough I'd be in business. Otherwise I suppose I could cut the flanges off an existing Jeep shaft (with collapsible section intact) and have it made to length.
Aaaallllriggghty then. [/Ace Ventura voice]
A couple beers and I may have found myself a grassroots way to run this thing blow through without buying that pesky intake manifold I've been whining about all afternoon.
Turbo goes here, carb goes there. Bing bang boom easy peasy.
Turbo stays in same spot just gets reversed, carb sucky box gets moved next to the stock manifold not behind it. Downpipe goes under carb box, compressor side outlet gets pointed down and directed to an intercooler, then the nice cool air goes into the top of the carb.
Here's a side shot of where I'm putting the carb box. Basically directly starboard (port? I was never in the navy) of the stock 1 barrel provision. I'll weld some tubes to connect the two and it'll be good as gold.
Part of me says "no way man it's not going to flow uphill like that" and the other part of me says, "yeah, but have you seen the Chrysler sonoramic intake? Fuel will go wherever I tell it to!"
So yeah that's a glimpse of the v2.0 turbo set up. Stay tuned to see if my mercurial-self actually goes through with it. I'll have to buy a new turbo, a blow off valve, and probably an intercooler. Because raceShart? Some eBay shopping says $300 will get me there. The reason I can justify this $300 is that these parts are universal and in theory I could use them on something else, were something else to find it's way into the hole where the slant six currently resides.
Insane, illogical justifications are the cornerstone of any good project car, right?!
Look at a 4x4 ford explorer rear driveshaft. May be just what you need....
And its amazing how fuel will go uphill and sideways under vacuum/pressure.
I don't see why that wouldn't work, worst case it needs the heater hose run under it to prevent puddling at idle or something to that effect. A much better solution in any event than the suggestion I was considering, one of those awful looking 2 barrel to 1 barrel adapter plates.
Also, driveshaft work is usually pretty cheap, having a shaft shortened and balanced should only run you something like $100-$150, more to lengthen it since you're buying a new tube and more welding.
For blow thru, you will need to do something similar to the Lotus setup or the Maserati set up.
Basically you have to vent the float bowl to manifold pressure, and have a rising rate pressure regulator. If not the pressure in the carb will blow the fuel out of the jets back into the float bowl and out the float bowl vent.
Lotus used float bowl covers with a hose attachment, instead of the standard vent, these were then connected to the manifold. Maserati put the entire carb in a box, this makes access to the carb a little more difficult, but it works. Both had a rising rate fuel regulator. Would have to upgrade the pump as well, since the pump needs to provide manifold pressure plus a little more.
I have a extra Maserati fuel pressure regulator, for some odd reason nobody sells rebuild kits for them. Just as part of general maintenance I replaced mine, but the old one was still working.
Lotus Esprit and Maserati Bi-turbo
I am sure there are other after market set-ups as well, similar concept.
I don't think direction of flow will matter much, if you add a intercooler, you will have piping and flow going in many directions anyhow
also get solid floats so they dont collapse when they see pressure, or i've heard of people using there existing floats and drilling a small hole in them and filling them with some epoxy or something to make them solid.
Solid float, that I had not thought of, but yes the floats would see some pressure. The float will see manifold pressure, maybe 10 psi. But if filled with epoxy, will it still float....
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