I thought ideally that axle was supposed to be "not" straight. For camber and such.
I thought ideally that axle was supposed to be "not" straight. For camber and such.
Glad to see my most-favoritest vehicle back here on my favorite online diversion, owned by my favorite GRMer that I have met in person.
mazdeuce - Seth said:I thought ideally that axle was supposed to be "not" straight. For camber and such.
Things will make sense tomorrow, Mr Deuce.
Patrick said:I’ve posted and deleted about 4 times now because i wanted to roll out of the trailer in Gainesville and drop jaws, but there’s no way with us not coming this year that this can stay under wraps for 14 more months. A handful of you know I ended up with this one. Time for 2.0 my way.
Patrick said:It has 2.LOL gearing and it’s too darn wide but only $4 per inch of ring gear for a rotor to rotor rear end is in my “take home now use later” price range.
... Do you still have the 2.lol ring and pinion?
Knurled. said:Patrick said:It has 2.LOL gearing and it’s too darn wide but only $4 per inch of ring gear for a rotor to rotor rear end is in my “take home now use later” price range.
... Do you still have the 2.lol ring and pinion?
When i pull it apart to narrow it i will be installing a spooled 3.25 center section, you can have the whole 2.xx center section. I wouldn’t fight if you want to give me $9.50 so i can max my recoup out
Day 8 June 10
de-bracketing and de-rusting the jeep front axle
Day 9 June 12 - time to make it roll
Leaf spring front axle???
You need to sit the engine up real high, and get stacks on it that sit up higher than the roof of the car.
Also, if you can work a Cammer and any kind of mechanical FI in under a $2018 budget, you will be considered as a god. (This quest is optional, and only presented since this was the first cool picture I found when searching for A/FX)
(And I just noticed that this engine has EFI on it, and now I am really curious as to what the heck is going on here...)
Gasburg?!?
pres589 said:Gasburg?!?
This is where everyone either comes full onboard or jumps ship. Yes, an old school gasser Wartburg. I’d been searching for a 50’s car to build all the while this was sitting 40 feet from my kitchen window hiding in plain sight
Ermagawd!
Didn't the jeep xj r run basically the same suspension? In other words, I think you CAN make it turn pretty damn well.
Im happy i don't have to keep my mouth shut!
Build what you want to OWN after the challenge. Or in general. Ive built too many things i wanted to buold, or felt compelled to build, without the desire to actually own amd keep what i built.
Dusterbd13 said:Im happy i don't have to keep my mouth shut!
Build what you want to OWN after the challenge. Or in general. Ive built too many things i wanted to buold, or felt compelled to build, without the desire to actually own amd keep what i built.
Exactly my idea here. I want a gasser. I want to own one long term. I originally planned the circle track tube chassis 1 foot wide flares all around car, but that’s not what I want to own after the challenge life is over. The corvair is a better platform for that build, but after asking the same questions, i’m just not sure that I want to own it after a challenge, and i’m not sure I want to spend hundreds of hours on something that i’ll just sell afterwards. The Datsun is like a gasser - a car i’m in love with and saw a post challenge life for. I’d rather make the right move and do it my way first, or stop partway in and realize my heart isn’t there if it’s not what I should be building.
I will be honest, I was looking forward to the circle track chassis for its sheer outlandishness.
But this is way awesome too, and as you say, it's something that you want to own, not merely something that you can build.
The Jeep has links from the factory for locating this axle which is why it used to turn I imagine. My question is whether or not you can add a panhard bar to a front axle for laterally locating it and dealing with turning forces better.
Funny, just went to the drag strip last night for the first time in eons...Gassers were the featured attraction. Go Crazy!
Pete
Some day, I will build a thing.
I’m going to skip tomorrow’s update because of work obligations and probably ending up at the chiropractor after work because of what i’m doing, so here is
Day 10 June 15 8:04pm
what happened is I scrounged some scrap pile circle track shocks with unknown springs and rusted stuck bearings in the eyes. Then I ordered the cheapest s10 triangulated 4 link kit on ebay on one of the 10% back in ebay bucks days. With the 10% “rebate” it was around $127. The front uses a generic spring hanger kit for $18, and some of the bits were stamped wrong so they sent me another kit for free, and i am making the rear shock brackets out of the mismade spring hangers. Everything will be pared down for lightness and aesthetics when the chassis comes back out to finish weld/grind/paint
Temporarily mounted the rear tires to make the thing roll because milk crates under the axle are overrated(there are 6 ton stands under the frame, i’m not that nuts)
the pinion in this axle is 2” offset so I installed the axle what appears to be off center but in reality the pinion is dead center of the car. All that means is I need to take 4” out of the passenger side tube and 6” out of the driver’s side to make the wheels end up in the same place. I ordered the jig parts and bearing end holders to narrow 9” fords and went to the steel supply place for the solid rod to finish the jig and while i was there grabbed some more tubes off their cutoff rack for 80 cents per pound.
In reply to Patrick :
Does paying for outside labor count towards the budget? If/when you weld it up and it sproings crooked, the shop that straighened my 9" did an incredible job. When I had my car on the alignment rack, toe was dead-nuts.
Alternatively, if you are going to brace the housing, do it BEFORE you weld the bearing ends on, not after.... d'oh!
Yes paying outside labor costs. I watched a video from a chassis shop about how they recheck the straightness of the housings and straighten them with heating/cooling. Most everything is accounted for at this point but i’m trying to keep a $300 buffer for driveshaft work in case nothing on the fmv pile works. It won’t cost that much but I don’t need to be sweating pennies next october. I have one free driveshaft that has the correct th400 yoke and i believe a saginaw rear joint so it would need adapted to whatever 13xx series joint the 3.25 center section has. I’m picking that up in September.
Nose high ....check
Yellow/Orange Lexan winders......check
Moon Eyes front bumper fuel tank ........check
Pastey white gnarly fender well exit headers......check
Gynormours tunnel ram sporting WAY too big holley 1050's............check
wheelie bar single (for the pucker effect)......check
parachute .....check
And last but not least a balls to the walls 'Chief Wafreekini'Hoo' paint scheme......check
oh and one woodpecker smokin a ceegar decal and a Dragway42 decal......check
Please tell me this will be street "legal." I am SO living vicarously through you.
Dang enabler friend sent me a link to a Henry J for sale in a field....
Oh and iffen you could rig some shift lever thru the roof with a severed forearm motif...... Ed Roth and countless other twisted bug eyed waistrells would be eternally grateful ......when are the Tshirts gonna be available????
Who need cologne when there's NITRO!?!?!?!?!!!!!
SkinnyG said:Please tell me this will be street "legal." I am SO living vicarously through you.
Dang enabler friend sent me a link to a Henry J for sale in a field....
Totally. Lights, signals, wipers, plates and insurance when the time comes. I don’t build stuff i can’t drive on the street.
You'll need to log in to post.
