See if this works
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CodEAq7JHom/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Oh that is awesome! Looks like the hood/fender gap closed up together just like you thought it would!
Oh hell yeah!!!
Very nice!
trunk wasn't fitting right with the weatherstripping installed, it was 1/2" above the surrounding body in places. I cut out most of the inner structure and flap wheeled the "sealing" edge smooth, bonded some aluminum to the inside at the latch & pin points, bolted the latch hooks on, riveted the pin things on and boom, we have a nice fitting trunklid that doesn't stand proud anywhere and is on there tight with the pins and rubber latches.
Patrick said:See if this works
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CodEAq7JHom/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
No needlessly complicated power mechanism controlled with a remote fob that is also engineered to be a lift-off setup? 
Looks awesome!
Advantage: fenderwell headers
Car is running berkeleying amazing. Timing set to 12* btdc. Got everything close enough to sit in the seat and put the car in gear on the lift to move it and confirm we had sufficient movement to attempt to drive it out of the garage tomorrow. We had nothing. No engagement at all. Even added a ton of fluid in case the chrome dipstick was wrong. Nope, just wasted a gallon of new fluid. Pulled pan, no chunks but lots of grey stuff at the bottom of the pan. Confirmed pumping was occurring because the cooler lines were full.
So, today I yanked it out and stuck in a th350 and new converter. Have to build a new crossmember and move my driveshaft loop(or add another) and ordered a new driveshaft to replace my new driveshaft. Anybody need a brand new 40" driveshaft with 1330 yokes?
new shaft supposed to be here Thursday or Friday, thankfully speedway motors had a fast shafts one in stock the right length and includes the th350 yoke and new joints. I'm not sure if the rear will work or I need a conversion joint but we'll see when it gets here. I don't remember if the yoke on the diff is 1330 or 1350.
Hmmmmmmmmmmm.
I keep thinking about the black RX-7's post rallycross life, it usually winds up being either a Volvo five connected to the rotary bellhousinged T5 in the garage, or an LS4 just because someone has to do it to prove it can be done and it may as well be me. Having an LS3 oil pan and a set of 1 ton truck 6.0 exhaust manifolds helps. Not sure if that driveshaft would be too long or just right.
New driveshaft is perfect. Waiting on a couple bits and new tips for the welder till I can finish the install. Building a new crossmember vs making a new center section for the other one. It would have cantilevered the mount like 9" forward of the crossmember centerline.
had to order a 1310/1330 conversion joint for the diff end, but with the car being so light and only a small block I don't think 1310 u joints are a fusible link
member: crossed
I like your member.
Dusterbd13-michael said:I like your member.
outstanding! man those mufflers sound great.
Hey, it moves!
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
thank your boss for the transmission on my behalf
Is the distance from the drive shaft to the tail shaft acceptable in your minds EYE
In reply to 759NRNG :
From Denny's Driveshafts:
The slip yoke should be able to go into the tailshaft of the transmission so the barrel is fully inside the seal. Then, pull out the yoke 1 inch. This is the correct amount of spline contact for the slip yoke.
Looks perfect to me? Driveshaft may be a hair long depending on what the suspension does through its travel, but if it doesn't bottom out before the suspension does, ship it!
Patrick said:In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
thank your boss for the transmission on my behalf
I showed him the video, he wanted to know the camshaft specs 
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
92 LT1 corvette. right at the max lift for vortec heads before valve stuff needs dicked around with.
started writing the Wartburg origin story. It's located here
https://carsandkink.com/2023/02/the-wartburg-story-part-one/
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