In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
You are correct, my front clip is one piece with the main body. They came both ways.
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
You are correct, my front clip is one piece with the main body. They came both ways.
I dug into it a bit more, taking things apart and inspecting and planning. I'd sure like to hear the engine run smoothly once, before I drain the gas for the winter. That will tell me whether I should work on wiring this winter, or whether I need to dig into the engine. So here is today's discovery.
Four bare wires twisted together, one of them goes into the crimp connector. No solder no insulation, just hope. That's the main power to the ignition, the fuel pump, and something else unidentified.
And here is another underdash view.
Pretty funny, is that can upside down at the top an old-style voltage regulator? It is not needed with the Delco one wire alternator in the car now, but there it is.. with one wire still connected. To somewhere...
Does anybody recognize this pedal assembly? The build manual didn't say to use Corvair, it suggested an aftermarket assembly from Honest Charlie. Unlike some things this ain't broke, I'm not going to fix it, but I am curious.
That's it for today. I am tempted to dig into the wiring, I lined up some parts, but I'm going to wait. My plan is to do ignition stuff first and see if I can hear it run cleanly. I don't need to re-wire the darn car for that, I can always run a wire straight from the battery to the HEI distributor for test purposes. That would eliminate a whole lot of unknowns and cut to the truth.
In reply to ekauppi7 :
Oh, you DEFINITELY have to work on the wiring this winter.
"is that can upside down at the top an old-style voltage regulator?"
Looks like a VW Beetle wiper motor.
ekauppi7 said:Does anybody recognize this pedal assembly? The build manual didn't say to use Corvair, it suggested an aftermarket assembly from Honest Charlie. Unlike some things this ain't broke, I'm not going to fix it, but I am curious.
I do not.
Your car's wiring makes me feel better about mine!
In reply to ekauppi7 :
I know you're not responsible for the wiring, please tell me you pull the leads off the battery when you're not standing near the car. Good gravy that's bad.
In reply to MuSTANK :
Oh, that's great. Good to know! There are always guys on the Valkyrie forums wondering what wipers they have. Many different ones were used by creative builders back in the day. Now I have a clue. Thanks!
In reply to TurboFource :
So happy to help.
Another good bit of progress, and a question for the collective wisdom.
Progress: I got the engine running better, so while there is more to be done I can stop worrying about that unknown. It was coughing back through the carburetor, barely running, on my short test drive. And I found evidence of a small fire on top of the intake manifold, burnt vacuum hoses and debris that wasn't there before. Not good!
My first step was to go through the ignition -- making sure it had solid power, new distributor cap and rotor and plug wires properly routed. Sadly it didn't run any better. So I consulted my pro engine builder friend Dan, who said in text message "I would start with timing. What's the base timing (at idle) and what's the total, likely comes in at 3500-4000 RPM." But the timing marks are buried on this car, and it's not running well enough to get to 3000RPM anyway. Dan replied "As a quick and dirty check you could mark the distributor where it is (so you can get back there if needed) and then crank it counterclockwise a few degrees and see if it responds favorably. I wouldn't worry about having too much timing in it for just idle and revving in neutral, just when you are under load"
Not very scientific, but what the heck, worth a try. I advanced the timing some unknown amount and the problem went away, now it runs smoothly. Wow! Victory dance.
So now I can check off the "engine runs" box and move back to the wiring and the steering column. Before spring I'll find a way to view the timing marks so I can set the timing properly. And find my timing light that I haven't used in years. :-) I've been spoiled by modern cars.
So here is the question: Before I tear too far into the wiring I want to replace the steering column with something shorter and in better condition. So I can move the steering wheel forward to make more room in the cockpit, and probably use a removable wheel. And so I can improve the U joint situation between the column and the steering rack. I could go with an aftermarket GM style column like the one below but preferably not tilt to make it shorter from the dash to the wheel. Or I could go with Miata or Celica or some other column. What would you do?
My thoughts are:
I'd prefer to use something that has steering column key and turnsignals, but those are not totally essential.
GM: easily available, lots of aftermarket wheels and disconnects and wiring kits. But the tilt version is too long.
Miata: Short enough. What's available for non-airbag wheels and removable wheel adapters? How bulky is the switchgear?
Or what other choices should I look at?
In reply to ekauppi7 :
Steering wheels adapters and quick releases for Miata columns are a click away. I put a miata column in my Corolla challenge car and equipped it with a $17 Ebay quick release. If you get a Miata column let me know....I think I have Momo wheels and a Miata adapter in the garage you can try.
In reply to ekauppi7 :
I doubt your gonna need power steering for this car, but on the off chance you want it in the future, consider using a Toyota Prius column that has the integrated Electric Power Assist motor/gearbox build into the steering column.
The MGB is a nice simple steering column/shaft that comes with either the horn function in the center or on the stalk. Easy install and bullet proof. Probably a good length for you as well considering the over all length of the MGB and tight cabin.
A thought . . .
My Valkyrie had a VW Beetle column. An easy install as well. I liked that it had an "accordion" crush zone at the bottom.
I made some progress today, at least if taking things apart and finding problems can be defined as progress. :-/
I figure I can move the steering wheel forward about 4" to gain room in the cabin. That GM tilt column is *long*. Yes I can still reach the wheel easily with my shoulders against the rear cabin carpet. No seat required in this ride. And probably make the wheel removable as well.
I got the column out. This car is so easy to work on and the PO did not over-torque fasteners. But along the way I found a key bolt in the steering assembly, one that if it fell out I'd lose steering control, was only finger tight. Literally I did not need tools to remove it. Scary. Makes me re-think my breezy assumption that parts of the car I have not examined are probably ok-ish. More ish now.
And the picture doesn't do it justice but there are two big holes in the front bulkhead. The plate holding the bottom end of the column is held on by one 1/4-20 thread forming screw. I can see a scenario where in an otherwise minor shunt, the screw lets go and the big heavy steering column punches a hole in the fuel cell. The fuel splashes right through the not-a-firewall and is ignited by the un-insulated underdash wiring. Not a nice dream.
Here is the complete steering assembly out of the car. Starting at the bottom, a rag joint with (I assume) the GM factory spline connection to the rack. Next up a U joint, this one looks rather agricultural, it's even painted International Harvester red. Badly worn which is not surprising since there are no bearings and no grease fitting. Then the slide coupling...
This is nasty. Home-made slide coupling, relying on that shear pin which is just a hardware store bolt. Loose fitting and only finger tight. I guess it worked... but I'm glad I did not drive the car more than around the block slowly. here it is in situ:
That's enough exploration for today, now on to solutions. The one U joint took up a 45 degree turn in the steering axis, that's a lot to ask of a U joint. I'm planning to change to a system with two U joints and a short intermediate shaft. With proper splines and connections and no rag joint. I don't think I'll need a slide coupling, once it is all bolted in place and lined up there should be no axial sliding needed.
Thanks for all the steering column suggestions. It's going to come down to what is small around the switchgear, the right length, and availability of related parts. I'd like stalk mounted turnsignals and high beam, but I can do without wiper controls, cruise control switches, airbag stuff, all making the top of the column bulky. I have decided I can even do without a column mounted key switch.
Suggestions are welcome.
Making a drawing often helps clarify the situation, and I always like to do the math. So here it is. Cutting to the conclusion, it looks like a Miata steering column is a good choice, or possibly VW Super Beetle. Both are about the right length. I like the lower mount for the Miata column, the two brackets going forward and up to the firewall while the U joint and intermediate shaft can go down.
DeadSkunk or anyone else in SE Michigan, do you have Miata steering column parts I could come look at, so I can see them in person before I commit? Thanks.
The sketch has the existing in black and the plan in red. The idea is to move the wheel about 4" closer to the dash, and also to change from the one 45 degree U joint to two U joints with a short intermediate shaft, roughly 23 degrees each. That intermediate shaft should not need support since the column and the rack are both firmly supported. At this point I'm thinking I will remove the fuel cell and possibly other items in front of the firewall, possibly drop the Corvair front suspension which is claimed to be only six bolts, so I have room to fabricate a proper steering column mount / bulkhead /firewall. More work than I had planned on but solid steering seems like a fairly high priority. :-) As always comments and suggestion are welcome.
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