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volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
4/3/20 6:50 a.m.

In reply to wheelsmithy :

I agree, well, that is, I agreed...up until the moment when I started cutting metal last night...

HOW TO ENSHORTENIFY A MIATA RACK.

Having made my calculations, and with a Manhattan and a good dinner under my belt (and the kids asleep, or at at least in their rooms) I was ready to attack the rack.  First, I fought with the little retaining clip that prevents the inner ball joint from unscrewing from the rack, and unscrewed the BJ.  At this point I had a...well, we'll call it a moment.  With the inner BJ out, I was able to peer down the inside of the rack and discovered that it was....hollow.  And that the ID was larger than the thread of the Volvo tie rod end threads.  So much for threading them into the Miata rack.  Just going to have to take accurate measurements and proceed carefully to make the rack exactly the length I need it to be, and use the Miata inner tie rod end ball joints.  

Using a pipe cutter, I cut the outer tube of the rack just inside of where it flares out to contain the end seal.

And then measure in 6-1/8" to cut off the length of outer tube needed to make the rack assembly the desired length.

Next, I popped out the rack seal on the flared end piece I cut out.  When I go to weld the end piece back on, I don't want this burning up.  

The rack itself was too hard and too thick to cut with the pipe cutter, but I was able to score it around its circumference to act as a guide for the angle grinder to make a straight cut.  As straight as my hands could do it, anyway.  First, off came the threaded end:

Then, another score with the pipe cutter 6-1/8" down the rack, and another cut. Don't forget to take into account the thickness of the cutting disc!

In order to align the two pieces perfectly, I went out in search of a piece of pipe or rod or something circular whose outer diameter would be equal to the inner diameter of the rack.  This would hold the pieces coaxial during welding, and also add a bit of strength to the whole operation.  In my stack of old Volvo parts, I found a cooling tube from an old B18 engine. The end was rusty and dented, so the tube was garbage, but it had a nice, clean, straight length in its middle that seemed promising.  I cut it apart and, sure enough, it fit inside the Miata rack perfectly.  For those curious, the OD of the tube was 5/8"

After adding a 45 degree chamfer to both ends of the rack, they were ready to go together.  In goes the section of the B18 cooling pipe...

Together again, and it feels soooooo good.

Now for the part I was dreading- welding it back together.  My first pass around the rack tube went pretty well- I had my Lincoln cranked up to 'D', the highest setting, and the wire feed low to push some heat into the work and make sure the weld stuck well.  After a few more passes, grinding out little pits and abscesses in the weld, I ended up with something halfway-passable.

It was well past my usual bedtime at this point, but I was rocking and rolling and really wanted to at least get the rack welded back together.  I ground-weld-repeat iterated a few more times after this picture, checking the OD of the rack and building it up a little here and there to make sure it was right.  I'm reasonably content with the result- enough to start putting the rest of the rack back together.  At this point, I need to weld on the end of the outer tube, and then put the inner tie rods ends back on.  After that, I'll start figuring out how to mount the rack on the 1800ES, and work out the tie rod lengths and how to adapt on the Volvo ends.  

Happy Friday!

wheelsmithy (Forum Supporter)
wheelsmithy (Forum Supporter) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
4/3/20 7:56 a.m.

Thanks for sharing. And of course a miata's rack is hollow. Saving every ounce and all. Loving the process.

volvoclearinghouse
volvoclearinghouse PowerDork
4/3/20 8:05 a.m.

In reply to wheelsmithy (Forum Supporter) :

Thanks.  In retrospect, I would have done two things differently, perhaps.  In reading your post on the thread about rack shortening, I see you mentioned tapping the cut-off end of the shaft and threading on the Miata inner tie rod end.  That wouldn't have worked, as the ID of the rack is larger than the threads on the inner tie rod- which is odd, as the threads at the end of the rack are then somehow smaller than the ID...but that's how Mazda did it.  But- I could have cut some internal threads on the rack (M16, maybe, or M18) and used a piece of threaded rod to join the halves together, and then welded the circumference for good measure.  If I were to do it again, That's what I'd do. 

I also might change where I made the cut, as the welded and ground surface is going to be going through that end seal, which is less than optimal.  I don't think *knock on wood* it'll be a big deal, as that seal doesn't really seal much, it's more just something for the rack to ride on.  I'll make sure the welded area is ground off nice and smooth, and probably hit it with some sandpaper to smooth it all down further before final assembly.  

classicJackets
classicJackets Dork
4/3/20 8:19 a.m.

Cool work. I always enjoy checking in here to see what you've gotten around to recently, you make great progress.

Ian F
Ian F MegaDork
4/3/20 8:59 a.m.

In reply to volvoclearinghouse :

Well, if you decide you want to (or end up needing to) try modifying the rack again, let me know.  I have a rack I'd really like to not be in my garage anymore. Coincidentally, it was purchased to go into my own ES, but I've decided to go the EZ-Steer route.  It came out of an NA that was converted to an R package spec about 10 years ago.

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/3/20 9:07 a.m.
Ian F said:

In reply to volvoclearinghouse :

Well, if you decide you want to (or end up needing to) try modifying the rack again, let me know.  I have a rack I'd really like to not be in my garage anymore. Coincidentally, it was purchased to go into my own ES, but I've decided to go the EZ-Steer route.  It came out of an NA that was converted to an R package spec about 10 years ago.

Thanks.  Was that a manual or power rack?

Ian F
Ian F MegaDork
4/3/20 9:09 a.m.

The one I have is a power rack.  The R cars had manual racks, hence the swap.  The good part is there was nothing wrong with it when it was yanked.

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/6/20 7:23 a.m.

Got the rack put back together Saturday night.  The rack is nice and polished and smooth.  Welded the tube up, taking care not to put too much heat into it at one time.  weld, clean up the shop, feel the tube, when it was cool, weld some more.  Put it all together and it works great, no binding, just like a stock 'Yata rack, only 6-1/8" shorter.

Now to figure out how to mount this in the car.  I'm thinking a perch attached to the front suspension cross member, and reinforced - bolted - to the frame of the car.  Luckily, with that 302 shoved back, there's plenty of room to work up front now.  

Also, because I'm sometimes an idiot, I just realized the other day that with the suspension 3" wider in front, stock anti-sway bars won't fit.  So I need to go find wider anti-sway bars.   Hmm.  Anyone got a handy website that lists dimensions of various OEM anti-sway bars?  

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/6/20 7:34 a.m.

Found some online pics of the 'Yata rack mounting.  This one is noted to be "not quite strong enough"

This one might look familiar to some of you...

OEM..

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/8/20 7:49 a.m.

My mess, at sunset yesterday:

I did a bunch of dumb E36 M3 last night, but eventually ended up here, with a couple of brackets loosely tacked in place.  The steering rack, sourced from a vehicle 20 years newer and produced on a different continent, is shown for reference.  

Might try to get on the Zoom call tonight from the garage; hope to see some folks there!

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/10/20 7:17 a.m.

Last night's activity consisted wholly of the glamorous and satisfying task of making a bunch of spacers for the rack mounting.  Note the "step drill" arrangement.  IIRC the bits were 1/8", 7/32", 5/16", and 13/32".  Plan is to use 3/8" bolts to attach the rack to the brackets; 13/32" makes a nice clearance hole for 3/8" bolts.  If I need a little more slop, er, adjustment, I may open them up to 7/16".  

The spacers are steel, because I didn't have any aluminum stock laying around, and who cares about weight, anyway?

NOHOME
NOHOME MegaDork
4/11/20 5:31 a.m.

In reply to volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) :

 

Here is a better image of how the rack was mounted on the K member

 

bluej (Forum Supporter)
bluej (Forum Supporter) UberDork
4/14/20 11:46 a.m.
volvoclearinghouse said:

Lunchtime steel procured.  Scrap piece from a local machine shop.  I asked how much, he said, "free".  I tried to put dollars into his hand, he refused.  

I can't believe it's taken me this long to really notice this thread, considering you're fairly local. I'm still catching up, but wanted to ask about the name of the shop, so I could keep them in mind for the future (if you don't mind sharing).

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/14/20 12:22 p.m.

In reply to bluej (Forum Supporter) :

No problem:

Bruce Machine Tool Corporation

1426 Hull St, Baltimore, MD

I like them a lot.  They're walking distance from my office and always willing to help.  It's literally a double garage in a group of old row homes in the Locust Point neighborhood.  

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/15/20 11:21 a.m.

Hit a bit of a stumbling block here....the connection between the Miata rack and the 1800ES spindle is something that needs figuring out.  I'm contemplating an adaptor to thread onto the Miata tie rod to adapt the differently-threaded 1800ES tie rod end.  Or possibly convert the 1800ES spindle to heim joints and adapt to them off the Miata tie rod.

Anyway, while I ponder that, I decided to get back to some metal work.  

The engine is in oplace, but the driver's side exhaust manifold was not.  So I attempted to put it onto the engine.  And failed.  Turns out there was yet more firewall that needed to be cut away...

And now it fits.

The brake pedal assembly came out completely; something completely different needs to happen there anyway.  Probably involving moving everything back.  Like, a foot or more.

Since the floorpan was a) rusty and b) still hitting the clutch lever on the T5, I sawzalled it out of the way, too (see first picture)

Last night I had about an hour, so I started work on fixing up this rusty old unibody member.  I'm not sure if they're supposed to have a hole in them, as built, but I fgured a nice plate of 12 gauge steel would make a good solid mount for the outrigger that needs to eventually go there.  

And thus, some cutting and welding.

Ain't purdy, but I'll clean it up tonight. 

I sure got my money's worth out of this grinding disc.

Ian F (Forum Supporter)
Ian F (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
4/15/20 11:34 a.m.

Save the brake and clutch assembly and try to keep the components together as much as you can. They have value to owners wanting to convert BW35 cars to the M41.  When we bought the pedals for my ex's car, the pedals were shipping in a pedal box cut out of a firewall.  

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/15/20 1:07 p.m.

In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :

This is/ was an automatic car.

Ian F (Forum Supporter)
Ian F (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
4/15/20 3:31 p.m.

In reply to volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) :

Ah... the plug where the clutch cable goes threw me off.

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/15/20 4:45 p.m.
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) :

Ah... the plug where the clutch cable goes threw me off.

I suspect that, as low a production as these were, they used the same pedal box for automatics and manuals and simply plugged off the clutch cable for the autos.

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/20/20 7:14 a.m.

A little slow on progress lately, I have been.  Last night the kids went to bed a bit late, so I wasn't able to get out in the garage until after 9, and as fast as I was working, before I knew it it was ZOMYGOD after 10PM and I needed to get to bed.  

This little piece of the floor had been bothering me.  It had rusted away from the side sill and the plan was to just booger weld it all together with the new floor pan, but then I figured, 'Nah, I can do better".  

The picture's a little wonky, the bend at the bottom to line up with the flat part of the floor (or, at least, where the flat part of the floor was and will be, though is not presently) is pretty well aligned with the bend in the OEM metal to the right.  

I'm beginning to think a good name for this car will be "Patches".  

wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L)
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
4/20/20 7:24 a.m.

O'Houlihan?

Ian F (Forum Supporter)
Ian F (Forum Supporter) MegaDork
4/20/20 7:30 a.m.
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) said:
Ian F (Forum Supporter) said:

In reply to volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) :

Ah... the plug where the clutch cable goes threw me off.

I suspect that, as low a production as these were, they used the same pedal box for automatics and manuals and simply plugged off the clutch cable for the autos.

Yes, I did a BW35 to M41 swap, so I know the pedal box is the same.  

"Patches" - yup.  Speaking of metal patches, I'm really curious to see how you tackle to rear hatch area since my car looks about the same as yours.

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/22/20 8:02 a.m.

In reply to Ian F (Forum Supporter) :

I'm kindof working front to back on the car, so the hatch will probably get some attention some time next year.    

wink

Partly this is because the current garage isn't really long enough to have the entire car inside, so the hatch is currently _just_ under the overhang of the roof.

Last night, I made the biggest patch yet, and tacked it in.  

Nice and flat.  cool

I have been pondering the tie rod adaptation question, and last night I "think" I came up with a solution.  Stay tuned...  devil

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/23/20 12:14 p.m.

Finished welding the perimeter of the BFHP (Big F...riendly Hole Patch) exactly at 10PM last night.  It was an abbreviated work session; the kids stayed up late playing outside as the weather was so nice (and it's supposed to rain this afternoon).  

The plan for the tie rod comes together...

volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter)
volvoclearinghouse (Forum Supporter) PowerDork
4/24/20 12:47 p.m.

In reply to NOHOME :

I was able to find another manual rack locally.  I'm going to buy it, as they seem to have some demand.  If you want it, I'll sell it to you for whatever I end up paying for it, plus shipping.  

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