So with you stating some track intentions, what are your roll bar plans looking like?
So with you stating some track intentions, what are your roll bar plans looking like?
The plan is to drop it off at autopower with a race seat mounted and let them figure it out. I was thinking something like this.
Sanding is done. Could not sleep last night and I have most of today off anyway so berkeley it lets sand till 1:00 am. I did a test paint with some rustolium that is surprisingly close to the blue I wanted and its the right type of paint on the hood to see how it will buff out. I have like ~1-2 very very minor scratches that you can see in the paint so I may need to clear coat to bury them. Its hard getting everything out of the glass without making it look wavy.
This popped up on my feed this morning, and though of you. Who doesn't like a $1700 steering wheel?
400mm is almost 16" diameter, for those of us who think in freedom units.
Darm it, more sanding to do. I did a test with some spray paint on the hood and I still have a few sanding scratches that show through. Not a big deal on a two stage job but for a single stage it will make the cutting down of the paint harder then I want it to be.
I hate spraying paint I am just not that good at it.
I've done enough painting to know it's really hard and I can get really frustrated with myself trying to get it perfect. I feel your pain there.
I raced RC boats for about 10 years. I hated sanding and filling fiberglass and epoxy glass hulls with a passion. I have serious respect for anyone who does their own paint and body work.
CAinCA said:I raced RC boats for about 10 years. I hated sanding and filling fiberglass and epoxy glass hulls with a passion. I have serious respect for anyone who does their own paint and body work.
I built a 1 meter Catalina which you can see in one of the photos. That sucked.
DId the whole body in 600 then 800 in a few places and its a slick as a otter butt, office is closed today and Thursday-Friday so I get to work remote and I crammed to get stuff done.
Exterior is done. Had a painter frend swing by for beer and to put hands on it. We found about 15 spots about 6 inch x 6 inches that were not perfect and I fixed them while he watched. I am done to three pinholes and I can fix that later.
So once my front rotor bits show up and I get my end plates I can put it on wheels and start masking for paint.
Interior needs to be sanded as well but its a dashboard and a small strip in the middle of the car that has the holes that looks like a strenghting brace figure another 4-5 hours on that. Should be really easy now that I know what I am doing.
So now the big decision is paint it myself with custom spray cans ~300$ in matierals including a clear. Or send it out and have it done professionally for 2K and hope they do a job that I will like. The painter that I want said 5K + materials just for the basecoat and primer, but that includeds wet sanding at the end.
2k feels like enough money to get yourself a half decent compressor and hvlp gun, no? Having recently spray painted a few big panels myself recently....I wouldn't do it on something that I wanted to actually look nice from closer than 10 feet.
If the painter you WANT said $5k+ I'm betting you won't be happy with the 2k guy.
which means you have more than 2k to spend on a good spray rig and I bet that will lessen your pain.
cars looking great!
They sent me 14mm not 12mm studs and lugs from Amazon. Boo..... But its almost on the ground. If NAPA has some studs then it will be tomorrow then I can wash and dewax it a few times in prep for paint this weekend, still have not decided if I want to send it out. I had to go over the body almost five times to find all of the bits I missed. My charcol guide coat is not showing the dents, but when I wet the surface I can see them. The body is almsot perfect. I did the jambs as well, still need to pull the doors and do a quick 360 scuff because they will be covered in aluminum anyway. Dash is after that and its really hard to get in there. The windshield is bloddy rivited on the body so pulling it for paint is a no go.
Big thing is the axles are not secured inside the transmission yet. I need to put on the better covers which are still nto here that have the mount for the clutch hydro.
Quick mockup. I will absolutely be able to get a 195 but not a 205 on the rear. Had to cut parts of the fender well today to get everything to move up and down through the whole travel though. The lack of bump stops kind of worries me but with the spring rates I think I have it should not be an issue I hope.
Done with the body sanding and interior sanding. Got my fancy lug nts for the wide fives and we have a roller. My front wide 5 adapters will be here tomorrow or Friday and the entire drivetrain and suspension and brakes are in the car and complete.
Roller!!!! It's coming together.
Well the first coats on paint on the hood orange peeled to hell and back. Its the right color though and I dried the heck out of some of it and sanded it down and it looks just like old Porsche paint. Now I sanded paint that dried for like 40 minutes and I pulled a good bit of it off but it looks like old porsche sheen after I hit a small part of it with the polisher. Does not look like a two stage with clear depth at all.
I am going to scuff a small area and spray with clear tonight to see how she does.
Wrong reducer for the temp and humidity?
NOHOME said:Wrong reducer for the temp and humidity?
Likely. I think its my technique or my gun. I put the rest of it on with a roller like the rustolium stuff I used to do and even that did the same thing. It normally looks like crap when I do that but I can sand it down. I followed the dirrections. I might need more reducer. Also I am not 100% in love with the color but I love the look of the blue in the single stage when it is polished out.
The stuff I put on super thin polished out really nice with some 2000/3500 wet and thn buffed and its very smooth but i cannot do that for a whole car even as small as this one. I have a new HVLP gun on the way from the hammer store which hopefully works better.
RichardSIA said:Probably too late now, and not to be rude, but I have to question your prep.
I learned the hard way that primer has to completely cover the car, in your pics I see dark spots from thin or missing primer. This can lead to shadows and lifting in the final paint.
Been too long since my last paint job but there was a time when my paint made magazine covers. Hope I can still do 3/4 as good thirty years later.
Cost quoted are way too high, I'm thinking no more than $800.00 and even that seems crazy when I used to paint cars for as little as $50.00! Using mis-match bargain paint at $10.00 a gallon, in the early 80's.
It has a duel color primer so that you can see when you go through. The glass is silver colored. The expoxy coat is sliver, then black high build then white hig build.
If you like the 356 style that I have on mine vintagespyders.com has it for sale. It has this relly interesting metal tab mounting system under it so it will attach to any car. Its not terribly expensive.
On the paint front I gave some to a friend who livers near me and he sprayed it out and it did the same thing to him though he had less orange peel then me. He said he really had to dial in the gun with it. He has the best of everything. Now having said that he says if you let is cure for at least 5 days with this brand and you get it thick enough you can block sand it down to almost perfect. I did a four coat roller area on a small piece of fender off the car and I am going to let it cook till Sunday. I sanded a bit more of the hood today and was extra careful and he is right I can get it flat. I have to start with 800 though and it sands fast. Ned to figure out the right pressure and all that to do it well.
I asked he is not willing to spray the car he hates doing work for other people. I am bribing him with beer to let me use his gear with his supervision so he feels better about it though.
Also my adapters came in. I had to take almost 2.5mm of the front caliper casting down to get everything to fit. But it looks amazing. I also found out that one of my wheels was painted and not polished like the box said. I am less happy about that.
Faux aluminum it is. Gives me my want for Patina but also makes the car look very original at the same time. Need more IPA for a wipedown and some touchups before I spray the matte clear.
Dude, I'm a lusty of 550's. I also have a vintage airstream. Two together say- that picture is sex. just do that and be the happiest dude with the sexiest car.
Ok this was way way way more work then just leaving it shiny and it took likely 3x longer and I still don't know how to protect it but I love the brushed aluminum look.
Still very dusty in this photo from the sanding of the paint.
Less dusty side.
Looks good, and if you change your mind or want to change it up it can always be painted again.
Killer.
Dry fitting everything for wiring and interior. Need to put on the side mirror assembly next and make sure nothing gets to berkeleyed up. Also Avon distributor. called they have my tires in stock.
I really want that darn bubble windshield but I cannot get if past the CHP and need to do the safety glass one. Last of my paint shows up on Thursday and I can fix the hood. After I get it inspected I can do what ever I want as long as I pay the fix it ticket if it happens.
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