You don't have to take the injectors off to read the part number!
Sounds like the car is improving quickly.
You don't have to take the injectors off to read the part number!
Sounds like the car is improving quickly.
I've felt like crap since Wednesday, today was apparently when my illness reached critical mass. Nothing has been accomplished. I did pull the number off the one injector I could clearly see and it came back as a stock part. Hopefully tomorrow afternoon I start feeling less like a zombie and can figure out what is going on.
I was thinking of making a flow chart, but this works too!
T.J. wrote:I think this is the story. Not any less confusing in this format. M is Moparman.
So I was able to pull the codes and I got bad baro and alt. field codes. I bypassed the baro and the car ran better, but was still super rich. I pulled the plugs and they were black with soot. I swapped in a set of Iridiums I had laying around and the car ran better still. I checked the fuel pressure and it was 55 so I swapped in another set of t2 injectors and an accufab I had laying around.
Took the car for a spin and it ran great, no sputter at cruise, pulled strong. Pulled back in the driveway and it started dumping gas out of the exhaust again. I bought a cig lighter adapter for the battery yesterday so I can plug in the scanner (yeah I have so many 80s Chryslers I bought a scanner just for them, don't judge me) and notice the 02 voltage is .02 and the most I got it to move is to .04. Used the scanner to view the codes and now I have just one code, 51 for 02 lean too long.
The car has had the later style 4 wire 02 wiring spliced in at some point so I need to confirm the wiring is correct and either source a new sensor of pull the innovate WB off the shelf and put it in. I'm leery of running the innovate sensor in the factory location though, since I've heard it will kill the sensor. I could weld a new bung into the downpipe when I do the exhaust, but that'd require more than I want to deal with atm.
Previous owners are dumb....
I went to pull the O2 sensor and noticed that one of the wires for the 4 wire O2 wasn't connected. I pulled up wiring diagrams galore, and determined the sensor ground wire for the 4 wire sensor wasn't connected. I hit the sensor with brakekleen (maybe a bad idea in hindsight), screwed it back in loosely, and connected the sensor ground with the other sensor grounds like the factory did on the later cars. Hooked the scanner back up and hey I have O2 readings yay! The I focused on the exhaust.
I pulled the 2.5 downpipe out and welded a 2.5-3 inch adapter to the end. The muffler is a 3" 4x9 oval magnaflow SS unit I had bought a few years ago for the van before it got all crazy. I neglected to take a picture of the 3" pipe to 3" mandrel bend to 3" pipe section I butt welded since all my fancy clamps were for ID-OD connections.
Step one was to jack up the car.
Da Fuq?
I forgot that the kid that put the car together used a trans with a cracked bellhousing. I guess I'll be building that 555/520 hybrid trans with a LSD sooner than I thought.
Finished the exhaust, pull the O2 sensor out and hit it with anti-seize and tightened it down. Started the car and the idle is super high. Hook up the scanner and find out the O2 is now stuck at .88 volts and will creep a little if I hit the throttle. I can't get the idle to settle either. I'm assuming the sensor must be toast. I'm now getting codes for rich for too long, and ASD relay short. Between the alternator code and now the ASD code the power module (underhood ecu) may be bad. I have another and will swap it and check out all the wiring to it later.
With that being said the car is drivable except for two things. First I need to rebuild the original column using parts from the one I rigged in so I don't have a wheel in my crotch while driving. Secondly, I need to fix the melty headlight wiring so I can drive at night.
Oh and one more thing, I'm going to start keeping a budget. Both an actual budget with money spent out of pocket to date, and a "challenge" budget with FMV for all the upgraded parts I pull out of the garage. So here goes...
Actual budget to date:
$400 plus ~3 bucks for the exhaust adapter = $403
Challenge budget to date:
$400 for the car
FMV for the Magnaflow 4x9 oval 3" in-out muffler new from Jeg's
FMV for the accufab adjustable regulator
FMV for the 3" 90 degree mandrel bend
FMV for the approx 4 ft of exhaust tubing
FMV for 2 3" ID-OD exhaust band clamps new from Jeg's
Of course I'll come back shortly and fill out the FMV prices with actual numbers.
Now if I replace a used stock part with another used stock part do I need to FMV the replacement part? The parts are identical. If so:
FMV for 4 used stock T2 injectors
FMV for used 2.5" downpipe
I'm horrible at updates.
Drove the car this past Sunday for the first time since putting the exhaust on. The idle still won't settle. It is at around 1500 RPM. I checked for vaccum leaks and didn't find any, and pulled the TB to clean out the AIS passages. No dice. I'm not sure if the intake gasket blew out or if there is a leak somewhere else. In other news the inside of the exhaust pipe has a nice film of oil in it now, so the turbo is on its way out.
Seeing you chasing the idle/fuel issues are NOT making me excited to pull my Charger out of the back yard for some much needed attention.
I hit boost cutout rather sternly several times and its a fuel cut so I might have been responsible for my own debacle at this point. I'm almost certain that the idle issue and the car not boosting above 10 psi now are related.
With winter rearing its ugly head early I haven't done much to trace it down. On the two piece intakes there is a brace that bolts on to the intake pleniun that if you leave the bolt out will cause the high idle. Not sure if there is a similar issue on the one piece or not.
One piece doesnt have that bolt hole. Sometimes the funny pipe thing pushed into the front under the fuel pressure regulator can come loose and cause a huge leak.
If you suspect a vacuum leak issue, just spray liquids around the intake and see if anything changes. If it does, narrow it down. If it doesn't, it probably isnt leaking. At least not under vacuum. 
Going back a few posts, you definitely shouldn't put the wideband sensor in the stock location, it will kill it.
Dat transmission crack... 
Can you just do a sloppy weld on that bellhousing until it gives up completely?
Someone drilled a hole at the end of the crack where it's just a hairline as a relief. As long as it lasts until may I'm OK with it.
I'm aware of the heat issue with the sensor. I bought a heat sink for the sensor which at least one person says they've used in the factory location with success.
I tried the old spray carb cleaner around the area trick and had no success. Since there is no power steering pump I should be able to get the intake out without pulling the head.
Boy, I left this one hanging...
1st. I figured out the high idle was caused by a wide open AIS. I tried replacing it with one off another TB I had in the stash and it did the same thing. I ended up pulling the plunger on the AIS out to shut the passage in the TB off and left the sensor unplugged. No more high idle.
2nd. This car is sketch, add in unequal length axles and boost, and calling it a handful is an understatement. I'm pretty sure the car was riding around on 25 year old suspension hardware, and at least 5 of those years it spent laying in the mud.
3rd. Rust. I grossly underestimated the condition of the floor, the area around the ebrake cable (which is a very common rust area) had been patched over with a piece of stainless steel flashing and rust converter. I patched the hole with a method I'm not proud of, nor do I expect it to last.
So right now the car is on jackstands in my driveway. The car sat for months after my last post, as I focused on fixing the transmission in the truck. The car pulled hard to the left, so I decided to rebuild the front suspension. I put the slightly used sensacraps with cut factory springs on the front, then tore out the front subframe. Energy suspension LCA bushings, replacement lower ball joints and tie rod ends, and a new power steering pressure hose and pump are in the process of being done.
Halfway through my wifes 3100 powered cutlass decided that I lied when I said I'd never do another intake gasket, so I've finally almost got it back together. If I can spare the cash to buy either a set of used wheels and tires or a set of tires before the GRMers meet Feb. 20th I hope to drive it there.
And yeah no pictures, because I didn't think about project updates while I was doing all that stuff.
Wow the starting story on page one and the convoluted drawing trying to explain how it works got me stuck on the banjo playing from Deliverance. With the picture of someone in titey whites driving in the back woods for their lives in a dilapidated K car. Still looks like a handful of 80's mopar fun.
Dem primes tho!
Progressives lol. Decided to go with a period modified look for the car so I needed 90s wheels.
those wheels, and that story, are AWSOME!!!!!
moparman76_69 wrote: Progressives lol. Decided to go with a period modified look for the car so I needed 90s wheels.
Equally as good.
lost me at "TL;DR"?
Am I supposed to know what the berkeley that means?
NOHOME wrote: lost me at "TL;DR"? Am I supposed to know what the berkeley that means?
Too long - Didn't read
It lives. And it is parked in front of a place called Pay Less and a place called Boost.
Doing youtube updates now..
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