In reply to Apexcarver :
Your car is so much better looking than mine!
I think that many of the previous owners must have been plumbers, because all of my hardlines are sweated copper as well.
If I had to do it again, I'd mount the radiators much more like yours, with the lines at the bottom. Easier routing and shorter lines. Mine is laid out the way I built it because I assumed I would use the fuel cell that came with the car, whereas I will likely use a much smaller one.
In reply to TurnerX19 :
This might work for a replacement when you need one: https://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0015/s0001/FR1013
bgkast (Forum Supporter) said:In reply to TurnerX19 :
This might work for a replacement when you need one: https://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/c0015/s0001/FR1013
As highlighted earlier; with these engines, you need Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) to simultaneously open one circuit and close the other. In this case, open the switch for power supply and close a ground switch on the ignition to kill the engine.
If you are content to only use a pull starter, you can get away with one of those tiny switches people usually use on a dash for your kill as there isnt much amperage in that case. Even if you are using an electric starter, its only about a 50amp draw, so you dont need a massive car sized switch for a powersports application. Remember: Snowmobile!
whiskey_business said:In reply to Apexcarver :
Your car is so much better looking than mine!
I try to keep it neat, clean, and tidy! At some point I want to redo a lot of the wiring on it as fuses are just hidden in obscure places and it could be bundled better.
That aside, mine is a generation newer than yours and came to me with a current logbook, so its not surprising. I would bet you spent less on yours!
While you are digging into your cooling system: Do you have an electric water pump on there and a shore power plug? These engines want to run colder than car engines, something like 120-130* so, for autocross, we tend to shut down the engine but run fans and electric water pump to cool it. For my car I fashioned a plug out of a 12volt power port and extension cable (think cigarette lighter port) where the male is hot off the battery and plugs into the port on the car applying direct power to fans and pump on its own circuit (with a diode so it doesnt mess with the onboard battery). Bonus of doing it that way is the male 12v has a built in fuse. I just alligator clip that onto a spare car battery that I take to grid beside the car. I can plug it in without getting out of the car between runs.
I can dig for the details on the pump I installed if you need.
In reply to Apexcarver :
You could probably get away with a large SPST switch that de-energizes the starter circuit and other electrical circuits, with a normally open relay that grounds the coil when do-powered.
This would isolate the battery from the whole car as well as grounding the coil, without an unobtanium high-amp DPDT switch.
In reply to Apexcarver :
I have been looking into powering e-fans and an EWP off an offboard battery for autocross, via an Anderson Powerpole connector. Definitely would love more detail on your setup, every little bit helps!
Not a huge update, but radiator and brackets are mounted in the car for the first time!
Coolant hoses dont bend very nicely, so I'll need some molded elbows st some point. Won't stop me from taking it it for a test rip though!
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