I have no idea but I'm intrigued.
I have no idea but I'm intrigued.
Citroen SM
Angry is the winner! Yes, a 1972 Citroen SM 2.7 V6 - 5 speed car- will pick it up late in April after the garage floor is fixed. Can't wait, owner has had it for 35 years and has taken good care of it . Has current tags, was taken off the road a few years ago when the gas tank filter got plugged up, he thought it needed a new gas tank, but it is solid and just needs cleaned and sealed. Will get it running and start playing with it soon.
dherr (Forum Supporter) said:Floor has begun to crack in multiple locations. Spec for the floor was supposed to be fiber reinforced and have expansion joints, but it looks like from the concrete order, they did not do the reinforcement and we can see it is just one big slab. I would be fine with a hairline crack or two, but I have several of these multi-directional cracks in the slab, with several right where my 2 post lift is supposed to go, so this is not good. I had the contractor out this week and he agrees that it is a problem and is now getting with the concrete company and installation company to figure out what to do, but it looks like they will have to cut out the slab around the retaining wall and jack hammer it out and replace it with the proper reinforcements and with expansion joints as were originally specified in contract.
Wow that sucks so hard.
So did the first slab have steel reinforcing in it? And when you say expansion joints do you mean sawcut crack "control" joints? What joint spacing was called for in the agreement?
Yes, it really does suck, but at least they are going to tear it out and fix it. The contract for the building called for what is below, which is not very clear. Fortunately they can do the work next week so I'll have it all done by this time next weekend.
Interior Floor
40' x 30' x 4" Stone Base
40' x 30' x 4" Concrete W/ Fiber Mesh
4,000 PSI Concrete
Plastic Vapor Barrier
1/4 inch Deck-O-Foam Expansion Joint Filler
We know from the concrete delivery paperwork that it was just regular concrete and not fiber reinforced concrete. They also did not use a vapor barrier or the expansion joint filler.
For the second round, they are going to use wire mesh, rebar and fiber reinforced concrete along with some expansion joints. So I'll be fine this time as I'll be here to watch the work.
In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
They missed some important stuff... but E36 M3 happens. I would want to be certain they installed the correct compacted stone base, too.
What puzzles me is the 1/4" expansion joint filler reference in your summary above. I'd HATE for you to be back in the same situation after they r/r your floor... and have more cracks.
So first.. I suspect they are using the term "expansion joint" to mean a compressible fiber type isolation strip that you would use where a new slab meets a wall or an old slab (or around columns or other obstructions) to allow the new slab to expand and contract slightly without binding along its edges.
Second and most important (IMO) with respect to cracking... Non post tensioned slabs on grade need tooled or sawcut crack control joints to a depth of at least one fourth of the slab thickness.. with MAX joint spacing of around 12' o.c. each way - and the various resulting "panels" between the cuts should not exceed 1.5/1 shape proportions (the logic is a long slender area wants to crack across the shortest part).
I'd keep it simple and ask them to sawcut a 30x40 floor slab in a 10' x 10' grid.
....if you don't relieve the contraction forces by making relief cuts in the slab, it's gonna crack all over again.
Appreciate the advice, I completely agree . The stone base was compacted and since it is two feet below grade was sitting on the hard clay under our topsoil, so I think it was more about the size of the slabs without any stress relieve that was the real cause of the problem. Since this was 40x30 poured between my retaining wall on three sizes, the slab just could not expand or contract without cracking as it did. Hopefully done right with the moisture barrier, some isolation strips where it meets the retaining walls and some stress relief cuts to break it up into sections and I should be good to go.
Meanwhile back to pushing and rolling stuff out of the building this weekend to get ready for next Wednesday.......
Sounds good. Fingers crossed they nail it second time around.
Well after 3 days, the floor is out, plastic is down, wire mesh and rebar is installed so ready for the repour. Scheduled for next Wednesday, hoping this solves the problem, certainly none of this was done the first time.
Progress, they are making the relief cuts today and I can start moving back in on Sunday! Electricity too!
In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
Are you going to paint the walls before you move everything in?
Not sure yet, probably will just move in as I am figuring out how it all will go. I am building a loft in the near future, so probably won't paint anything until that is built.
dherr (Forum Supporter) said:Not sure yet, probalby will just move in as I am figuring out how it all will go. I am building a loft in the near future, so problably won't paint anything until that is built.
i would highly recommend painting it all white or light gray before you move stuff in. it makes a huge difference in how bright it is and it is much, much easier to mask off the whole floor with plastic and spray it now than later when you have to cover a whole bunch of stuff up.
Well, you all talked me into it and it was worth the efforts. 25 gallons of primer and paint later, the garage is now ready to start moving in. Kind of nice to have heat in it, but of course that won't be necessary as it will be in the 70's most of the week here (finally)!
Looks great!
outstanding!
Fantastic!
Shop has been upgraded over the past two years, just got a two post lift (game changer) and built a loft with storage and office space. Just needs beer on tap to be perfect.
In reply to dherr (Forum Supporter) :
Why did you make the stairs that wide?
In reply to DeadSkunk (Warren) :
Couple of reasons, one is that each side is 16x12 with a 16 foot support beam. That left 8 ft between both platforms, which works perfectly to store large items like my rotisserie behind the stairs. Plus it makes it easier to bring up large items.
The shop is lovely! Have you done anything with the SM yet? It's so pretty hanging out in the background
The SM is one of my "long term" cars. I intend to give it a long and methodical restoration, so it has to wait behind a few others, but agree it is lovely to look at in the shop while I work on the other cars. Same with my 914/6 clone but that one will be done sooner as I have 90% of the parts to do the restoration so it will get pulled out and stripped down for the body work before the SM gets the same treatment. I have two client cars undergoing work now and my TR3 on the lift getting finished, so pretty full schedule, but having a good time.
dherr (Forum Supporter) said:Well after 3 days, the floor is out, plastic is down, wire mesh and rebar is installed so ready for the repour. Scheduled for next Wednesday, hoping this solves the problem, certainly none of this was done the first time.
My 24 X 42 garage floor did that also. Dug down 5ft., poured a footing, made a block foundation, filled in the center readying for the pour. By this time the excavator was tired. You're supposed to do a 6" lift and then tamp the hell out of it, then another and another and ... You get the idea.
When they came to do the slab, the mason took a 2X4 and hammered it into the newly tamped sand in the center. I went hard for about 8" then foop! Right into marshmallow. Balls. You can only remove the fill and start over, he suggested flooding it. Punch holes all over with 2X4s, flood it with a hose, repeat often.
If I hadn't dropped a 4X8 sheet of plywood from the attic landing on its corner, I would not have cracks. Too much to repair now, but I'm ready for the next time.
BTW: Love your ceiling!! Hanging sheet rock that high over your head just sucks and doesn't reflect light like that.
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