1993 Ford Escort KL swap / SCCA SMF build

Did you only use the engine harness, or did you swap dash harness, too? I'm trying to avoid the dash harness at this point.

Thanks for your help!

This is off to a rocky start, though...

Just got back from where the MX3 is, was going to drive it back up here.

Driver's front spring is snapped, rendering it undriveable. At least.... not safely.

Looks like i'm towing it tomorrow and losing half a day. Oh well, as long as motor is out by sunday evening i'm still "on schedule."

The engine harness plugs right into the body harness of the ford. I used the V6 MX3 harness. Wiring is the easiest part of the swap, it all just plugs right in. Super simple. Having an MX3 doner car is key. Do you have the ZE ecu?

johnnytorque wrote: The engine harness plugs right into the body harness of the ford. I used the V6 MX3 harness. Wiring is the easiest part of the swap, it all just plugs right in. Super simple. Having an MX3 doner car is key. Do you have the ZE ecu?

Yep, i've got the donor car, and i do have a ZE ECU as well.

Unrelated, but i found out that the 22 year old factory alarm in my MX6 still works.

Moar pixxors Ben.

Nothing exciting today. The MX3 still isn't up at the garage, will be there around 1pm tomorrow.

Today i did control arm bushings on an E36, and took my new toolbox and tools up to the garage along with a borrowed engine stand and hoist.

I do have a few parts i need to take pics of, will update with those tomorrow along with the beginning pics of MX3 carnage.

But here's a pic for you. Here's a pic of the endlinks that i'll be running. Parts should be here this coming week.

Unrelated to the Original Post, but since you have the MX-6 and MX-3 can you take a look and see what you'd recommend balljoint wise for my F2t Swapped MX-3? The ball joints from the MX-3 are just a slight touch smaller than the MX-6 Knuckle. I tried an MX-3, MX-6 is made way different, ZX2 isn't right either. I saw someone mentioned FC RX-7. Much rather find a replacement to use instead of finagaling steel around the Balljoint as I'm using pieces from a Mack truck floorboard as shims currently.

I can take a look this week.

If ZX2 won't work, the RX7 won't work either.

thanks man!

what car does this engine come out of?

smog7 wrote: what car does this engine come out of?

Jap-spec stuffs.

wikipedia said: 1997 Mazda Capella Wagon 1993+ Mazda 626 Jspec Sedan 1993+ Mazda MX-6 Jspec 1993+ Mazda MS-8 (Japan) 1993+ Mazda Eunos 600/800 (Japan)

Moar goodiez!!!!!

Minty fresh fogs with brackets and harness.

South Bend Clutch TZ Stage 2 Kevlar clutch.

Ported and polished KLZE straight neck intake manifold w/ 64mm throttle body.

Cusco Camber plates/pillowball mounts.

On top of Koni Yellows and Ground Controls loaded with QA1 650lb springs. (Front)

Bawlin'!

Koni Yellows w/ Ground Controls loaded with Eibach 550lb springs. (Rear)

King6Fab manual timing belt tensioner.

Valve Cover Gaskets.

Apparently the guy that was rebuilding the shocks did all 4. Which was nice of him i guess.

Is seam-welding legal in SM?

How OEM can you make it look?

I can make it look pretty bad, at least as bad as the OEM stuff that has probably all failed at this point.

No but really, i don't care enough about it to try to skirt the rules over it, was just wondering if it was legal. Didn't see anything about it in the SM rules, but i haven't checked the lower classes yet.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: I can make it look pretty bad, at least as bad as the OEM stuff that has probably all failed at this point. No but really, i don't care enough about it to try to skirt the rules over it, was just wondering if it was legal. Didn't see anything about it in the SM rules, but i haven't checked the lower classes yet.

According to these internetty types, Seam welding in SM is a no no. YMMV.

^Thanks man! I wasn't really worried about it, but mndsm and i were talking about all the bracing and such that will be on it, and it seemed that seam welding was the only real place left for improvement without going with a full cage, which i'm not doing.

Anyways, found out which radiator i need. FINALLY, so i can stop worrying about it.

Griffin 2-26185-X.

This has the inlet/outlet on the right side, has an overflow vent, and it's the perfect size, will just tuck into my radiator support. All the hondas will be jealous of my tucked radiator.

I'll order that on Friday, and that's that. Only thing left from there are gauges. MFactory was ordered, i have fuel rails and FPR on the way, and an HEI mod.

NICE!!!

johnnytorque wrote: NICE!!!

What did you do for your radiator again? The only thing i'm worried about with this setup is that i don't think the top of that radiator will be the highest point in the circuit, so i'll have to cap off the overflow and somehow run one up at the water neck.

I've got a couple other small questions i'm working on that i may be sending your way soon, too. Your help has been MUCH appreciated!

Ben,

How does the OE handle it? Longer neck? Radiator mounted higher up in chassis? Magic spinning triangle?

You could add a "filling resevoir" to your overflow/vent line to top off from there, it is as simple as a capped vent canister and some hose.

John Brown wrote: Ben, How does the OE handle it? Longer neck? Radiator mounted higher up in chassis? Magic spinning triangle? You could add a "filling resevoir" to your overflow/vent line to top off from there, it is as simple as a capped vent canister and some hose.

The OE MX3 cooling system was some of the most convoluted crap i've ever seen in my life. There's no less than 3 caps in the system.

But the fill point was at the water neck. Strangely, the overflow tank (assuming that's even what it was) was on the other side of the bay by the battery.

Yep. Overflow by the battery. There's a fill neck on the radiator underneath the shroud on the driver's side that you probably can't see in this pic, but you can see the fill point on the waterneck as well.

I suppose with the Griffin unit, i could really just run it the same way, then.

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

johnnytorque wrote: NICE!!!

What did you do for your radiator again? The only thing i'm worried about with this setup is that i don't think the top of that radiator will be the highest point in the circuit, so i'll have to cap off the overflow and somehow run one up at the water neck. I've got a couple other small questions i'm working on that i may be sending your way soon, too. Your help has been MUCH appreciated!

I used the MX3 rad and ran the crazy stock system. My Tracer rad is STILL sitting in my crawlspace....

Keep the questions coming, yours is an epic build, I'm happy to help anywhere I can!

johnnytorque wrote:

92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:

johnnytorque wrote: NICE!!!

What did you do for your radiator again? The only thing i'm worried about with this setup is that i don't think the top of that radiator will be the highest point in the circuit, so i'll have to cap off the overflow and somehow run one up at the water neck. I've got a couple other small questions i'm working on that i may be sending your way soon, too. Your help has been MUCH appreciated!

I used the MX3 rad and ran the crazy stock system. My Tracer rad is STILL sitting in my crawlspace.... Keep the questions coming, yours is an epic build, I'm happy to help anywhere I can!

Hrm.... everyone who has tried that has run into clearance issues. How did you have it mounted?

If you look at the pics, I actually used home shelf brackets to hold it in place. It was definitely the McGyver way, but it worked. I do remember it being a bit of a nightmare, I can't remember 100% if I modded the lower crossmember at all, but I don't think I did. You can see MX-3 written in the top of the rad. I did use a universal rad hose though. The brackets are white at a 45 degree angle to the rad at the top. very ghetto.

Oh and check out the ghetto PS loop in the top pic! man if I could only do this car over, I'd change so many things!

I'll assume with the Ontario plates on the MX3 in the pic that it is not the actual parts car?