Ugliest color EVER.
Which i suppose makes it more awesomer.
Ugliest color EVER.
Which i suppose makes it more awesomer.
So what are you charging for co-drives when this thing is done????
Depends how fast it goes through tires. 
Nah really... nothing. I'm going to be extremely rusty and i tend to learn bad habits quick, so it'd be awesome to get some people to beat on it and see what they think can be improved throughout the season.
If you can fit in the seat (Corbeau FX1 Pro), you can drive it.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: If you can fit in the seat (Corbeau FX1 Pro), you can drive it.
How do you like that seat? I am planning on getting one for the Miata.
EvanB wrote:92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: If you can fit in the seat (Corbeau FX1 Pro), you can drive it.How do you like that seat? I am planning on getting one for the Miata.
I like it. 'Tis purdy.
I have no idea what it's like to drive in it, though.
I have spent some time in a Forza, though, and that was pretty decent.
Get one for the Miata, and if you don't like it, i'll take it off your hands for the Celica. (As long as you get the microsuede, that is.)
EvanB wrote:92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: If you can fit in the seat (Corbeau FX1 Pro), you can drive it.How do you like that seat? I am planning on getting one for the Miata.
This topic interests me as well...
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Get one for the Miata, and if you don't like it, i'll take it off your hands for the Celica. (As long as you get the microsuede, that is.)
Microsuede is more expensive, I am poor.
What is the width like? How big of a waist size would be comfortable?
They say a 36" waist is FX1 Pro, 38" is FX1, and 42" is FX1 Wide.
The FX1 Pro is a little big for me, but for autox use and not endurance racing, it's fine. I have a ~29" waist. I think 32-34" would be ideal for FX1 Pro.
Sounds good then. I'm around 34" waist now but working on adding lightness for race season so I'll be around 30-32" by the time I use the seat.
..... Haltech Platinum Sport 1000.
Yep.
Sigh. Further proof that building a car takes at least 2.5x your original budget.
Slacking on the last couple parts i think.
Catch can that i'm not sure i like.
Final revision of side mounts.
Very nice looking engine mounts!!!
I gotta plug that dude, btw...
Those were made by "King6fab," website is here: http://www.king6fab.com/
Darren does great work, fair prices, and his turnaround time is very quick. ESPECIALLY considering that for these mounts, he didn't even have a jig set up. I sent him the stock units.
Previously in this thread i posted a picture of a mechanical timing belt tensioner that he makes for the KL motor, eliminating the hydraulic tensioner which is a known CONSTANT failure point on these motors.
I'm actually going to be selling my AWR front and rear mounts and am going to send him my stock front and rear MX3 mounts so he can have a jig and complete my set.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: Sigh. Further proof that building a car takes at least 2.5x your original budget.
Hence mine is on hold.
You're going with a Haltech? This was not expected, what drove you there?
pres589 wrote: You're going with a Haltech? This was not expected, what drove you there?
Local face to face support, bigger feature set, the price i'm paying includes all setting up including wiring, and a professional tune, i just pay to rent the dyno.
Basically it's a guarantee that the car will run 100% made to me by a professional (someone i already had a relationship with), vs taking a chance of me trying to figure everything out on my own.
Combine that with no hard set ETA for the other option i was banking on, and not a huge total price difference in the grand scheme of things... It wasn't really THAT hard of a decision.
The guy i bought my Cherokee from a year and a half ago is a Haltech dealer/owns a speed shop.
Makes sense.
Still haven't been able to get a good accurate representation of this color... but here's the color all the suspension arms and braces have been powdercoated.
Need to get a picture of it all at once, in sunlight.
I need a recommendation on black-face gauges that won't break the bank.
Also need input on whether or not i should just use a Dakota Digital tach signal converter or an aftermarket tach.
My worry with the signal converter is that the stock BP would outrun the tach in 1st gear anyways, and this motor should easily rev twice as quickly.
If a tach (with a shift light) would be a better idea, Same deal as above, recommend me a black-faced tach that won't break the bank!
Race car suspension kit brought to you by PURPZ.
And this came in the mail yesterday. It will likely be joined by a matching AFPR today. Will also need to get pics of the inline -6AN fuel filter i'm using. It's all red/silver Fuelab stuff.
Annnnnndddd... because i promised you guys some carnage pictures awhile back, here we go!
After a 20ton shop press. Notice the bent and broken bolt, and the arm pushed completely over the sleeves on the other end.
I pressed a washer over a bushing sleeve!!!!
Bolts won't come out? NO PROBLEM. BECAUSE SAWZALL.
Broken welded captive nut on body end of trailing arm? NO PROBLEM. BECAUSE SAWZALL.
Some testing. (Doing it wrong, correct example that isn't mine will follow.)
Correct examples!
That Purple powdercoating is hot.
And BECAUSE SAWZALL needs to be a new meme.
Oh, and why are you concerned about an engine out-revving a tach or a signal convertor? Lots of drag motors and rotaries will spin up faster than your motor.
I'd check out Stewart Warner gauges through Summit Racing, though I actually like Auto Meter and VDO as well.
Javelin wrote: That Purple powdercoating is hot. And BECAUSE SAWZALL needs to be a new meme. Oh, and why are you concerned about an engine out-revving a tach or a signal convertor? Lots of drag motors and rotaries will spin up faster than your motor. I'd check out Stewart Warner gauges through Summit Racing, though I actually like Auto Meter and VDO as well.
Because the factory 100whp-on-a-good-day out revved the stock tach. (Which only goes to 8krpms)
I'll have dropped almost 200lbs out of the car, the motor will be over twice as powerful, and easily twice as rev-happy due to the other things done to it. Oh, and tighter gearbox.
I fully expect 3rd gear to move the tach faster than 1st gear used to with the old BP. IF i ever take this to the quarter mile, i'd expect it to break into the 12s.
I actually made another thread on the gauge subject. I think what i'm going to end up doing is a buncha Stewart Warner gauges at the moment, so funny you mentioned them. 
Anyways, yes, i love the powdercoating, and this place did a great job. (As they should have, but at least you get what you pay for, right? )
Coolest front wheel drive Escort ever makes me want to waste money.
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